be patient on the download it is 172 pages, complete wiring schematic


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ave-faq-55276/

 

Quite. It's (a small part of) JTIS.

 

ok the AE plug and software just came in...
the only code that keeps coming up is B2373 = LED #1 Circuit short to battery
any one ever had this come up? if so what was the cause?

 

here is what it's showing..

screen shot one taken right after it whent into limp mode


screen shot 2 taken after all codes where cleared and a full system check was performed.


At this point I don't even know where to start..

 

Where are you located?

How old is your battery?
Has it rained recently or have you washed the car?

 

Im in lubbock,tx
I got the battery 4/29/11

it hasn't been out in the rain in since I got it.
it started doing this the day after I had it detailed.
they detailed under the hood as well as the under body.

it has a very small oil leak that im looking for.. so I had the under body detailed to remove the oil from the bottom of the car to find the leak.
and it the rear main that is leaking.. but it's nothing to really worry about yet. it took 3 day to even see where it was leaking.

 

How did they do the detailing? Especially, what did they do under the hood? Any water or other fluids used? Any harnesses moved and/or unplugged? Something they did sounds the most likely cause and best way to go about figuring out the problem.

Seems to me you need to spend your time learning about OBD, reading up how it works etc, and also study JTIS so you know what you're doing. By now you should at least be aware that codes only come back instantly in some circumstances (and you should have learnt rather more than that).

With AE you have the equivalent of a garaduate text book but it seems you've not done OBD 101 yet. (I hope I have the terminology right as I'm in England where we use our own.)

 

maybe PM this to BRUTAL, i do believe he is in Texas too. Maybe it wouldnt hurt to see if he is somewhat (within a couple hours) away. That would be the best place to start first.

 

I beleave they used some degreaser,a parts cleaner brush and a pressure washer to clean under the hood.

I have a basic under stainding of OBD system's and how they work. but I have never had any thing that would pull every computer in a car. so going into the ABS and body control module's is new to me.

I am in the prossess of reading every thing that came with the AE software and I am looking for more info on the setup of it online.

 

As you've learned from reading this forum, the under-the-hood electronics in these cars cannot tolerate moisture. If the detailer did indeed fire up a pressure washer in your engine bay, he almost certainly caused your issue....

 

wha have people done in the past to fix it after some thing like that?

 

If damp gets in it can change the signals in or out of the many computers either as long as the damp remains or long term if corrosion occurs. In the former case, drying out will be enough but in the latter it's a lot more pain. The fix is never to risk such damp getting in and that has been the advice stated here fairly often.

You have to be a little unlucky for damp to cause trouble. Or do I mean lucky for it not to? hmm

Anyone getting paid for working on modern cars should be very well aware of this as it has applied for about 15 years. They are surely negligent if they nevertheless cause moisture problems and I'd go after them to put right what they caused.

If you need to chase the problem(s) yourself, I suppose finding out all the things throwing codes or misbehaving would help you hunt through circuit diagrams to try to find the actual affected items - be they modules, wires or connectors.

 

ok there is a black 2 wire plug on the driver side that goes to the TPS. you need to remove the engine cover, unplug the connector and spray it with WD40, its 2 thin black wires if that helps

 

ok I cleaned the plug's.. I took some WD40 and a air hose to TPS sensor and the Throttle control plug.. it seem's to have fixed that problem... thanks for the tip Mafioso.

so now it is not giving the TPS code anymore... but after it warm's it still has the same isssue DSC disable,ABS disable, and parking brake fault. and as soon as it's hot it stay's until the car cool's down to less 130* under the hood. then start it back up and all message's are gone.. until it warm's backup. then all message's come back with out moving the car.

the code's it's giving me now are...
U2523 CAN Message time out from Engine Control Module
U1027 Invalid or Missing data for Engine RPM
( there is nothing listed in JTIS for U1027 )
B2373 LED 1-Short circuit to battery

I had my computer setup watching it as it warmed backup and as soon as it through the code's I lost my connection to the ECM for about 20 second's
all point's on my computer for the engine when't to 0 or off. and then came back to normal but the car was now in limp mode..

 

Which module(s) gave which code(s)?

Was it only the ECM (PCM) that vanished? Were you actively communicating with any other module(s) at that time?

 

The ABS system is giving the U2535, the General Electronics Control Module is giving the 1027 code..

It was communicating with everyting. and when it did it I lost every thing for about 30 to 40 seconds. then I could see all systems again.

 

I don't think AE actually CAN be "communicating with everything" ever, let alone all the time. You select a subsystem don't you? So that's the only one it's talking to. 30-40 secs isn't enough to change between subsystems or at least not all of them!

Do those codes keep occurring if you clear them? If so you should have a fair chance to figure out why. I'd start with wiring diagrams (JTIS etc).

If it turns out to be CAN fault(s) then there are relatively few wires & connectors as compared to the thousands in the whole car.

 

Yes your right.. AE won't talk to all systems at one time..
I did it over and over again reading another system each time and when it would give the code's I would loose them..

If i have to replace one of the control modules.. the have to be programmed by a jag service shop right?

 

Only a few would need reprogramming. I don't believe either the ABS/DSC or EPB modules need it, though they do need to be the right version (as an example, the EPB module changed a lot in later years).

Your symptoms don't sound like a bad module (so far).

 

Ok. problem solved....
Turns out the A/C control module was bad.... it would get real hot then cause alot of feed back in the comm loop in the car causing every thing to drop out for a short period...