Hello fellow jaguarians!
let me start off with thanking everyone who posts this issues on here and for all the suggestions and advice given. I have searched and read through many many threads and posts for the last 3 days on the dreaded electronic parking brake fault error on my dashboard. I have tried almost everything. I'm assuming I've missed something since I still have my issue. So, I have an 2006 Jaguar s type VDP V8 with the" parkbrake fault" ,apply footbrake error fault. I've tried to recalibrate it, got a brand new battery, and charged it up as well. I've unplugged the plugs on the EPB module that's in the rear passenger side of the boot, I've hooked up my scan tool and was able to pull all these codes. Can anyone help me out, by reading all 14 codes that I got, do I need a new module?

 

Unless you cleared them (& do check they went), those could have been from any time since the car was built - in which case you need to clear them and see which if any come back.

 

You have both "voltage too high" and "voltage too low" errors, which certainly suggest that Jag V8's advice is spot on. I note that the battery is new and you charged it. That said... out of curiosity, what is the current voltage reading at the battery? It seems that with modern S-types, all troubleshooting starts at the battery...

 

Thank you for your replies. I did clear the codes and then ran the scan tool again and it one DTC code did come up but I did not save that one so I will go back outside and rerun the scan again to see what that code was and I will also have to recheck the battery to see what it's actual reading is thank you so much and I'll respond with that information today I appreciate it have a great day

 

The aftermarket scanners don't tell you the whole story. If using the Jaguar SDD system it will tell you what date and mileage the error occurred at. So it's easy to tell what the others are mentioning which are "historic" codes verses what are current "active" codes.

Do follow JagV8's advice as anytime the car is scanned you should erase all the codes after reading them. What your looking for are repeatable codes so your sure what the car is telling you.

The next problem is your scanner is not showing either P1100 or P1000. One of these codes should ALWAYS be present! P1100 means all is good and your driving monitors are all set and the car is ready for an emissions check. If you have P1000 (Which you will IF codes are cleared!) then it means the car needs to be driven more to get the monitors to set. Note this can be a LONG process as there are certain driving cycles that are required that are difficult to preform if your around traffic.

U codes are network codes and tend to be from wiring and/or battery voltage problems as S-Type owner posted above. If your a computer person it's the same as monitoring network traffic. You will have collisions and errors. That's part of how it works so you don't really care as these errors will always happen from time to time as the car is started/stopped and operated. BUT you want to know if this is happening NOW.

So for now clear all codes. Post back with your battery voltage. Hopefully resting voltage and with the car running.
Drive the car some and then check for codes again. Most likely you will get a smaller list and that should help with narrowing down where the problem is.
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Okay now these are the four codes t






hat come up now since I cleared the previous one's yesterday and redid it and then this is also what my brand new battery reads for the voltage and I also put a picture of what the brand new battery is that I purchased and charged up before I even put it in the car because I read threads that stated that even when you buy a brand new battery they're not at their full charge.

 

That's so unhappy - have a look inside the module as it's probably damaged (you did reconnect it I hope!).

 

Yes, I re connected it.

 

I see no visible damage to the module itself and there is no water damage.

 

Probably a choice between pinpoint tests for all the reported items or a used module and hope.

 

So are all the codes, if I checked the pinpoints, are they the 2 plugs on the module?

 

Your C-1802-00 code reminded me of a post over on the "other" Jaguar forum. I wonder if the EPB mechanism has traveled too far and cannot reset itself. Take a look at Irish Pappy's posts in the following thread as he shows how of apply current tp the system to move the mechanism, which would help to determine if the problem is in the module or the electro-mechanical part of the EPB system:

Parking brake wont release | Jaguar Forum

There is also a comment on resetting the EPB module by removing power and reconnecting.

 

Pinpoint is a term for a specific test sequence in the service manual to narrow down a fault, i.e. check voltage at a particular point while pressing a certain switch. A copy of the service manual (FSM Workshop Manual) is available near the bottom of this page:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Open that massive PDF and do a Control-F search for your four present codes:

C1094
C1782
C1785
C1802

You will see various tests to run if those fault codes are being generated. Sometimes you have to extrapolate a bit, and look for an overlapping root cause that may trigger all those codes.

One thought is you have tried most of the known remedies on the electrical side, specifically replacing the battery and making sure it is fully charged. It's important to continue keeping the battery fully charged during any subsequent troubleshooting.

But it may be time to shift gears and start looking at the mechanical side of the system. The mechanical cables are known to corrode internally and bind up. This makes the actuator work harder than normal and trigger a fault. The actuator itself lives in a very hostile environment under the car, subject to all sorts of moisture and especially road salt if you live in one of the From states.

From the Scorecard thread, there was a good link in post #32 showing how an actuator failed internally due to corrosion, but alas the pictures are no more. I remember the guy opened the actuator and the internal gearbox was an absolute mess with rust:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...2/#post2172441

The thread with the missing pictures showing the carnage:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...r-apart-53753/

 

First good job! As you saw all the U codes are now gone and they were most likely what I call "Ghost" codes. They come and go from voltage variations and while they are errors they are just temporary.

Now you now have 4 solid "C" or chassis errors. As posted above it points strongly to a mechanical or EPB module problem. I think your getting close too!
Follow Karl's advice and post back what you find out about those 4 codes.

Also I constantly post this and that thread is EXACTLY what happens! STOP using any picture hosting sites!! They are all garbage and you will eventually lose all pictures. So as we now see hundreds of threads with missing pictures. It just destroys good information and we really need to see those pictures!

Please, please post the photo's DIRECTLY to the forum. Then they will last as long as this forum does.
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How do I post the picture directly to the forum?

 

When you add a picture do you choose what picture from your computer? Or do you use a website that contains these photo's?

I "Believe" from looking at your photo's that you ARE posting directly to the list. Thanks much for that too!
My point was that VERY valuable thread posted above no longer contains any pictures which is just a shame as it makes is hard to follow along with what he found.
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Found a little more info for you, including some pics of internal damage at the actuator. Take a look at this thread from a certain unnamed forum:

https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/...e-motor.82964/

Navigation within the thread is a little irritating. Above the first picture, click on "See More" and then multiple pictures will be displayed. That shows how to remove the actuator. Remember, we still don't know if that is warranted just yet, but the pics will show the general location, etc.

Within that same thread, scroll down to post #6, showing a rusty gear. Click on the pic, and others will be displayed showing the carnage inside a failed actuator.

Should you pull the actuator just yet to look inside? Tough call. If the cables are easier to remove, I'd start by inspecting them first. I'd also inspect the outside of the actuator for general condition. If you see external corrosion, there's a good chance road salt got inside and tore up the internals. I'd also look for rust stains where the actuator gearbox halves are joined. If you see rust streaks at the seam, that would indicate a failed gasket and rust inside.

eBay is great resource to research how to remove parts, as you can see where the fasteners are located, etc. Search for "Jaguar parking brake actuator" or similar and drill down to results for the S-Type. Here's one example showing the actuator with brackets and cables, with plenty of nice clear pics:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125822995796

 

This suggestion is probably best so far. Rather than crawl around under the car (actual work!), you can do some great troubleshooting with just a couple of test leads in the trunk. The only thing I'd add is to used fused test jumpers. You don't want to be connecting direct battery power without fuse protection.

 

Thank you all for your help and advice. So today fuse F59 in the boot keeps blowing, so I definitely have something going on in that area.....ugh, does the EPB module do anything else or is it strictly for the electric parking brake ?

 

Don't be discouraged. Believe it or not, the recurring blown fuse is a good sign! This really narrows down where to concentrate your efforts.

Working from my phone, so no access to the wiring diagrams at the moment. If nobody beats me to it, I can look up specifics of that fuse at work tomorrow. What size is the fuse? If fairly small, say 5A, it's probably for the control circuit or module. If larger, around 20A, it's probably the power feed for the actuator.