I finally carved out some time to replace my water pump, thermostat and serpentine belt. All went well until I was bleeding the air out after adding all new coolant. I was following the directions in JTIS and was at the first step:

' Open the enginer air bleed located on the engine crossover pipe.'

But, it doesn't tell you if you are to give the thing a quarter turn, half turn, or 360 turn. I turned it 360 then another 360 then I was holding the thing in my hand - at least half of it. <darn!>

The radiator drain plug and heater air bleed values behave as you expect they would - they just unscrew out. Apparently the engine air bleed value is different. <duh>

Can some kind soul tell how how far to turn ?counter-clockwise? to allow air to bleed from engine then how far to turn ?clockwise? to close it?

Thanks.

PS I just ordered a replacement upper radiator hose set for $76 USD. Expensive lesson for me.

Scott

 

Hmm no replies. If you don't need to bleed the air out via the cross-over pipe, then how do YOU bleed the system of air after coolant change? Thanks in advance. I'd rather not break the new one when it comes in.

Scott

 

Im assuming you have v6 since the v8 uses the cap on the thermostat housing. I never use that part cause that is a "known" failure point in that pipe assembly(at least when you works on jags all day and youre now experianced). The bleed is in 2 differant spots depending on your year...and since i am not clairvoant..........

 

brutal - thanks for the reply as always.

Sorry, I was not clear in my post. Yes, it is the v6 (3.0L) and there are two bleed valves : engine bleed value on crossover pipe you mentioned and the heater bleed valve near the coolant reservoir tank.

From your comment can I assume that I can ignore that plastic failure point known as the cross-over pipe and use the 'heater bleed valve' to degass the coolant system after a refill?

Thanks

Scott

 

yes use the 1 by the reservoir(on the reservoir of later models in front) But Stype suck for air pockets that get trapped. I preffer to use a vacum adapter to vacuum the cooling system and add coolant under vacuum. it pulls most air out of the system and gives less chance of overheating after cooling system opened. The later models with the reservoir in front do not have near the issue as early

 

[edit] I did a search on Vacuum Tools and found them (e.g. AirLift). They use your compressor to create a venturi effect over the radiator fill cap that like you said pulls a vacuum. You then use the established vacuum in your system to pull in the new coolant. Very cool.

Scott

 

!Update!

My upper assembly finally arrived, started installing and and of course the bottom hose didn't fit! The place, uroparts.com sent me XR827648 which almost fits. Don't get this part if you own a 2000 because it won't fit. All hoses fit perfectly except the lower one because the new part had a hose connector that was too large and my hose would not fit. See picture below for side by side comparison.

However, all was not lost as I was able to figure out how the little engine air bleed valve works, remove it and move it to my stock upper hose assemble. So, the little valve only cost me $75!

Here is the trick to the little engine air bleed valve you won't find anywhere else. To remove it, simple turn the valve with a wide standard blade screw driver COUNTER-clockwise one quarter turn. That's it. Then you can remove it. To close the value, insert and wiggle in at 9 O'clock the way you removed it, then give it a quarter turn clockwise. And, your are done.

I hope fellow 2000 Jaguar 2-type 3.0l weekend mechanics out there will tuck this little bit of information away becaus someday you'll need it and save yourself alot of grief.

Scott

 

Tomorrow, I test drive my newly purchased AirLift vacuum refiller (model 550000) to fill and purge the coolant system. If this works, then I don't plan on ever touching the engine crossover air bleed value ever again.

Thanks brutal for your help and suggestion...

Scott

 

your supposed to get a new style larger hose with the upper, there should be notes in the parts catalog on this. but Im surprised youve not gotten that replaced already since that was done years ago. That hose goes to the heater control valve(DCCV) and is a PIA to change. I would get the new style hose, and get a plastic hose connector avail in the HELP section of any autoparts store and splice it to the old hose and the new below the larger hose opening that goes to the new upper hosa matrix. Do this so you dont have to take apart the DCCV, and hose matrix. You paid alot for that hose assembly with new t stat and I would change it all now.

 

Coolant purge/fill via the AirLift was just as advertised. Glad I bought it. I'll keep the new hose assembly and get a larger lower hose as you described and one day replace it. But, for now it works and I'll just leave it alone. I took the Jaguar to the dealer for the first 5 years or so so I'm surprised that hose assembly didn't get swapped out like you said. Ohh well.

Project is done and a success thanks to the advice from this Board.

Scott

 

Are you sure you are supposed to remove the cross-over bleed valve screw after rotating by 90' counter clockwise? I was thinking that maybe it just worked like a ball valve to open up the main flow to the side flow. Also, I cannot see any other bleed valve close to the expansion tank.

 

the bleeder valve on my 2000 3.0 v6 crossover pipe just spin and spins when turned with a screwdriver, doesnt go up or down at all. just spins. biggest p.o.s of all time. thanks jag

 

AFter 10-11 years.... not everything is going to be perfectly working.