engine running cold RESOLVED
hI guys, having an issue after a garage fitted a new egr valve. Engine keeps running below normal temp at motorway speeds (70), just around the 1/4 Mark. Does not overheat.
Thermostat stuck open? Or could anything else be causing it? New str owner but I assume it's not normal?
Thanks In advance
Thermostat stuck open? Or could anything else be causing it? New str owner but I assume it's not normal?
Thanks In advance
Could be open stuck thermostat if it is stuck it will throw a CEL and ecu will say its the thermostat.If you have to change it, I would recommend removing those torque head bolts from the coolant piping and replace them with hex head bolts...but if not..check the voltage at the sensor harness,also did you replace the egr with vin specific or aftermarket egr? Also did you unplug the neg terminal when the egr was replaced?What is the celsius reading for the cts...? Clear codes , do hard reset by unplugging the neg term 30 minutes,reconnect term. reset the windows, and park brakes..see if she does ok.But I would make double sure the egr is for your car, if it is then I would check the coolant temp sensor..Scan it for any related codes.Good luck and keep us posted.
Last edited by 912guy; Jan 14, 2014 at 01:21 PM.
Thanks for the reply. Im not sure what EGR was fitted. I got the EGR pipe replaced under warranty and paid them to install a new EGR at the same time since they had easy access. I wouldn't put it past the garage to have cut corners. Could the wrong type give me similar symptoms to what I have?
I had a code reader on the car earlier on, it did give me a warning about the temp sensor not reading anything, but after cleaning up the connector that CEL disappeared. It has always run cold since getting it back though, im not sure if its coincidence. There was another code saying coolant temp below operating range of the thermostat, although I cant remember the exact code off the top of my head. It doesn't overheat if I leave it stationary and it does reach normal operating temperature. Just seems to run cold when there is airflow to the front.
Any other car Id chuck a new thermostat/temp sensor at her, but Im aware they are slightly more complicated than most cars
I had a code reader on the car earlier on, it did give me a warning about the temp sensor not reading anything, but after cleaning up the connector that CEL disappeared. It has always run cold since getting it back though, im not sure if its coincidence. There was another code saying coolant temp below operating range of the thermostat, although I cant remember the exact code off the top of my head. It doesn't overheat if I leave it stationary and it does reach normal operating temperature. Just seems to run cold when there is airflow to the front.
Any other car Id chuck a new thermostat/temp sensor at her, but Im aware they are slightly more complicated than most cars
Good points... Engine codes are:
P0116 - Engine coolant temp ckt range/perf
P0128 - Generic coolant temp below thermostat regulating temp
And the usual P1000 (Jaguar OBD systems readiness test not complete)
What am I up against? The temp is believable as the blowers only get luke warm (instead of hot) when the temp gauge is lower.
I did notice last month the pump that leads to the indercooler(?) was making a noise. Is the actual water pump electric or belt driven? Could this be causing similar issues? Or do they have anything to do with a possible mismatching EGR?
P0116 - Engine coolant temp ckt range/perf
P0128 - Generic coolant temp below thermostat regulating temp
And the usual P1000 (Jaguar OBD systems readiness test not complete)
What am I up against? The temp is believable as the blowers only get luke warm (instead of hot) when the temp gauge is lower.
I did notice last month the pump that leads to the indercooler(?) was making a noise. Is the actual water pump electric or belt driven? Could this be causing similar issues? Or do they have anything to do with a possible mismatching EGR?
You have multiple pumps, mostly electrical but water pump for the engine is belt driven I think. They're all shown in JTIS which is a free download and includes the electrical guide.
You should not have P1000 unless you've had the battery off or cleared the OBD codes. Even then it should soon change to P1111 unless blocked by faults.
The codes do suggest the thermostat isn't working right or I suppose an air lock where the ECT is could perhaps do that - but if you have reasons to suspect the thermostat then go for it.
You should not have P1000 unless you've had the battery off or cleared the OBD codes. Even then it should soon change to P1111 unless blocked by faults.
The codes do suggest the thermostat isn't working right or I suppose an air lock where the ECT is could perhaps do that - but if you have reasons to suspect the thermostat then go for it.
I am leaning toward to coolant temp sensor and it wouldnt hurt to change thermostat, they are cheap only about 25.00 from napa,or autoparts store.
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I did not see where he had heat problems INSIDE the car?
Is your heater working OK?
But yes the thermostat is easy and pretty cheap to change. Plus the STR has all metal in that area so no worries of breaking plastic. Be sure and get the jiggle valve in the right position and don't install it backwards! And don’t strip the Torx bolts. Use the correct size bit. People have ham fisted it and screwed up the Torx head.
I do not recommend to put hex bolts in, the Torx bolts work just fine.
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Is your heater working OK?
But yes the thermostat is easy and pretty cheap to change. Plus the STR has all metal in that area so no worries of breaking plastic. Be sure and get the jiggle valve in the right position and don't install it backwards! And don’t strip the Torx bolts. Use the correct size bit. People have ham fisted it and screwed up the Torx head.
I do not recommend to put hex bolts in, the Torx bolts work just fine.
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Hi Everyone, thanks for responding, I thought id post the solution to close this one off.
A combination of a new temp sensor and new thermostat has cured the issue, the garage suspects the old thermostat was getting stuck open. Now the engine runs at proper temp and I can keep warm when its icy outside!
Hopefully will help someone in the future.
A combination of a new temp sensor and new thermostat has cured the issue, the garage suspects the old thermostat was getting stuck open. Now the engine runs at proper temp and I can keep warm when its icy outside!
Hopefully will help someone in the future.
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