The above youtube video is exactly what mine sounds like... any ideas anyone?


The mechanic suggested it was the cam and lifters, then priced out the replacement for me and it was $9,000


If anyone knows exactly what it is and give me a general idea how much it cost's I would truly appreciate the help.

 

Have someone raise the revs just a little - does it speed up exactly the same?
Repeat a bit more and then a bit more.

May well not be even vaguely what has been claimed.

 

It may be that the tappets need to be reshimed. Page 601 workshop manual. What do you mean by lifters because the camshafts are rotated by the timing chains and not by pushrods.

 

JagV8: yes it speeds up the same

Ducmon: I am just repeating what they told me, this now leads me to believe they are not sure what it is.

How much does it typically cost to have the tappets retimed?

 

you need to run away from this mechanic. There are no tappets to retime.

The noise sounds very typical of a normal Jag 4.2 engine. Close the hood and carry on.

 

Could it just be cold weather?

The noise is not normal for this engine as I did not hear it before and I have been under the hood enough to times to know.

 

Have a competent Jaguar specialist look at the vehicle to determine if this is something as simple as a exhaust leak.

They should remove the cam cover and measure the cam lobe clearance according to the procedure in the Workshop Manual to see if any adjustment is needed.

Under normal conditions, the camshaft to tappet clearance does not vary much unless the engine has been neglected.

 

Keyword "competent" I have not been able to find a local technician that would know.

 

Don't take it anywhere then. Or go further to find competent. Fuel is fairly cheap but a bad mechanic is not.

 

If you ask on the forum, somebody will be able to recommend a good indie that will be in your near.

 

Here is a post about the same problem
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...d-starts-9027/

Turned out to be a leak on the Epg pipe.

 

Screwdriver to the ear jobbie me thinks.
I've done this on multiple engines to locate the general area of the problem.
Could be a valve needs re-shimming or a noisy injector, but I'm only speculating.
As already stated above, if you can't find a competant spanner close by, look further afield, it'll save you time and money in the long run.

 

Do you have enough DIY skills to check the valve clearances page 797 in the workshop manual. You may have to but a special Jaguar tool but still a lot cheaper than 9000 dollars.


You can get the manual from jagrepair.com

 

To see where the sound is coming from, you could listen to it with a stethoscope, putting it on the valve covers, alternator, etc. If no stethoscope use a piece of 2"x2" lumber to see if the noise is internal or external. Fuel injectors make a clicking noise too, they are supposed to. I wouldn't worry about it unless it gets worse and worse, especially under higher rpms.

 

Candidly Mikey, that is not a typical noise.

That said, the ticking appears to have disappeared...


Changes:

- I changed the oil and added one quart of Marvel Mystery oil to the new oil ensuring that proper aggregated quantities are maintained.

- Outdoor temperature has risen, I felt as if this may have had some sort of impact especially since the ticking appeared at below freezing temperatures

I'm crossing my fingers and hoping this holds true.



Ducmon: I do not have that kind of skill unfortunately, I am one of those who did not think things through before purchase thus have my checkbook tied to my hand when driving.


The EGR pipe thread: interesting proposition; however, the symptoms were different. The ticking would happen from coldstart, but not disappear after warm up. Moreover, the ticking would increase in pace with acceleration.

The EGR pipe leak from the other thread is an interesting proposition for something else. I still keep getting an error code on left bank 1 for the catalytic, could an EGR pipe leak be connected to that?

I know the EGR valve in my car has been replaced by the superseded version already.

 

can you post the code number then we can look at it better and maybe point you in the right direction.

It is always good to admit where your borders are so dont worry. As these cars are getting older there are less mechanics who work on them everyday as it is too expensive to go to the workshop for every problem.

The most important thing is to always ask people here as there will be somebody who will be able to help.

glad to hear that the noise has now stopped any car can throw up a noise now and then just keep an eye on it.

 

That.

 

Ducmon:

P0430 Bank 1 and out of the left tailpipe you can definitely see more dark soot than the right.

When I have asked the mechanic to look at it:
- field trims are where they should be
- sensors are good
- no catalytic rattles

Advised to just keep running it.







Long story short since I first bought the car I have had the following:

- Super charger coolant leak (solved)
- timing belt and tensioner (solved)
- Elbow vacuum leak (solved)
- p0171/4 & p0430/1 (solved for a period of time: see above)
- Engine gurgle (solved)
- headliner (unresolved)
- rims scuffed (solved)
- cd changer (solved)
- electric parking brake failure (solved)
- rear window shade (unresolved)
- water pump failure (solved)
- various coolant leaks (solved)
- bushings (solved)
- tires (solved)
- brakes (solved)
- headlamps plastic yellow and decayed (unresolved)
- temperature sensor (solved)
- windshield wiper arm (solved)
- rear sensors (solved)

Obviously I got hustled pretty badly when purchasing the car; however, I brought it on myself by being uninformed and am not afraid to admit it. It has been a huge learning experience and fun, but makes me not want to own a machine ever again. It has the SV8 package and the leather/ interior is pristine so I have been slowly over the course of ownership fixing mechanical items so I can pass her on to an owner that will love her.


I have fixed all the aforementioned issues except for:
- headliner (doing that one soon)
- the rear window shade (unsure how to)
- headlamp plastic and rubber (unsure how to)


The only added item I can think up is when the P0430 first popped up again (6-8 months after having the vacuum leaks fixed) when the engine light would come on I did notice a correlation between me adding a fuel system cleaner to the gas tank when I filled up and the light disappearing immediately when cranking.

At the time my suspicion was that it was just a fuel quality issue here in Ohio; however, now I'm curious as to whether something in the engine was slowly failing. I say that because it got to the point that you could add a cleaner and the light would not disappear, and the only code was the P0430. Then the ticking came, I find that youtube video which is a very accurate description of what mine was like, and I read on the forums: cams, lifters, schims, tappets etc.

I go to the mechanic: he fixes some minor things that also needed to be fixed and prices out the cams & lifters, but tells me it doesn't sound too crazy and just to keep running it and mentions the Marvel Mystery Oil.

Since the oil change and Marvel Mystery Oil added to the engine (maintaining appropriate overall quantity) the ticking has disappeared. Temperatures are low again (3:F - 28:F) and still no ticking. Moreover, have not had the check engine light come back up revealing the P0430 though I have been waiting patiently for it.

So I don't know... that is where I am at currently gents.

 

That sounds like bad O2 sensor or the guts have come apart in the cat. Is there any chance the ticking you are hearing coming from the cat? It could be a big chunk of cat gut rattling in there. I t might seem to go away every once in a while when it gets wedged and then come back when it pops loose again. Check O2 readings on that side b1s1 should be switching high and low b1s2 should be switching a much lower rate.

 

for the rear sunshade take a pick or credit card preferably, wedge it under the lip pull up while having someone press the sunshade button.

They get stuck often. I keep my sunshade in the up position and cycle it a few times a month.