Gearbox Fault codes by Newbie from Braintree, Essex
#21
i live in the uk.
i bought a Bosch 12V Silver Car Battery HSB019 from halfords Halfords | Bosch 12V Silver Car Battery HSB019
it costs £129.99, if you shop around you can find them cheaper, the reason i used halfords is i needed the battery right away as i had flattened mine a few times sorting out a borewash problem and it would no longer hold a charge poperly.
it fits and works perfectly.
i bought a Bosch 12V Silver Car Battery HSB019 from halfords Halfords | Bosch 12V Silver Car Battery HSB019
it costs £129.99, if you shop around you can find them cheaper, the reason i used halfords is i needed the battery right away as i had flattened mine a few times sorting out a borewash problem and it would no longer hold a charge poperly.
it fits and works perfectly.
#22
Just to finish this off I found some part numbers for you.
Bosch #49-850B in the states Pep-Boys carry this under SKU #9073755
Also Dura-Last from Autozone will work #H8-DLG. This battery has a bit less power and is a bit more expensive so I recommend the Bosch.
Both have been reported to work and fit properly. As always check your application to be sure.
.
.
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Bosch #49-850B in the states Pep-Boys carry this under SKU #9073755
Also Dura-Last from Autozone will work #H8-DLG. This battery has a bit less power and is a bit more expensive so I recommend the Bosch.
Both have been reported to work and fit properly. As always check your application to be sure.
.
.
.
#23
#25
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Be aware that the computers need to relearn good manners each time the battery has been disconnected. Give it a few days.
#26
Change the ATF fluid and make sure it has enough in the box. I just did mine and used Millermatic ATF DM (assuming you have the 6 speed ZF6HP26 box) after some research. More economic than the ZF/shell stuff and seems to work very well and is the same specification ATF fluid, also Motormania in Whitam stock it £30 for 5 liters.
Just change the fluid not the pan/filter and see if it improves the situation (You'll need 5 liters assuming its not low on fluid)... A decent mechanic should be able to change it in less than 1/2 hour (Mine did). Full instructions on the sticky on the UK forum. If it improves then go for the full change including the pan/filter (Bristol Transmissions) best place to buy them and consider the first ATF change as a flush. If it doesn't improve then its something more serious and at least you haven't wasted money on the pan/filter which is a bigger job to change.
Good luck
Just change the fluid not the pan/filter and see if it improves the situation (You'll need 5 liters assuming its not low on fluid)... A decent mechanic should be able to change it in less than 1/2 hour (Mine did). Full instructions on the sticky on the UK forum. If it improves then go for the full change including the pan/filter (Bristol Transmissions) best place to buy them and consider the first ATF change as a flush. If it doesn't improve then its something more serious and at least you haven't wasted money on the pan/filter which is a bigger job to change.
Good luck
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Jagbuff_UK (04-23-2013)
#27
#28
Change the ATF fluid and make sure it has enough in the box. I just did mine and used Millermatic ATF DM (assuming you have the 6 speed ZF6HP26 box) after some research. More economic than the ZF/shell stuff and seems to work very well and is the same specification ATF fluid, also Motormania in Whitam stock it £30 for 5 liters.
Just change the fluid not the pan/filter and see if it improves the situation (You'll need 5 liters assuming its not low on fluid)... A decent mechanic should be able to change it in less than 1/2 hour (Mine did). Full instructions on the sticky on the UK forum. If it improves then go for the full change including the pan/filter (Bristol Transmissions) best place to buy them and consider the first ATF change as a flush. If it doesn't improve then its something more serious and at least you haven't wasted money on the pan/filter which is a bigger job to change.
Good luck
Just change the fluid not the pan/filter and see if it improves the situation (You'll need 5 liters assuming its not low on fluid)... A decent mechanic should be able to change it in less than 1/2 hour (Mine did). Full instructions on the sticky on the UK forum. If it improves then go for the full change including the pan/filter (Bristol Transmissions) best place to buy them and consider the first ATF change as a flush. If it doesn't improve then its something more serious and at least you haven't wasted money on the pan/filter which is a bigger job to change.
Good luck
#29
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Comrade Gibby (09-25-2013)
#31
Change the ATF fluid and make sure it has enough in the box. I just did mine and used Millermatic ATF DM (assuming you have the 6 speed ZF6HP26 box) after some research. More economic than the ZF/shell stuff and seems to work very well and is the same specification ATF fluid, also Motormania in Whitam stock it £30 for 5 liters.
Just change the fluid not the pan/filter and see if it improves the situation (You'll need 5 liters assuming its not low on fluid)... A decent mechanic should be able to change it in less than 1/2 hour (Mine did). Full instructions on the sticky on the UK forum. If it improves then go for the full change including the pan/filter (Bristol Transmissions) best place to buy them and consider the first ATF change as a flush. If it doesn't improve then its something more serious and at least you haven't wasted money on the pan/filter which is a bigger job to change.
Good luck
Just change the fluid not the pan/filter and see if it improves the situation (You'll need 5 liters assuming its not low on fluid)... A decent mechanic should be able to change it in less than 1/2 hour (Mine did). Full instructions on the sticky on the UK forum. If it improves then go for the full change including the pan/filter (Bristol Transmissions) best place to buy them and consider the first ATF change as a flush. If it doesn't improve then its something more serious and at least you haven't wasted money on the pan/filter which is a bigger job to change.
Good luck
Initially I would change the gearbox fluid for some ATF III just to see if it cures the problem, and if it does then fit a new filter and flush with Millermatic DM. This is what I did to confirm that the problem went away with new fluid.
I can offer to do this for you as I have ATF spare that I got free, the tools and the know how.
Let me know if you meed this done as its not too difficult..... When you've done it once its easy to do it again
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Yellowfin (04-24-2013)
#32
Feedback on: Gearbox Fault Code (S Type 3.0l auto petrol 2003)
Hello Honourable members,
Yesterday I introduced myself to this forum as Comrade Gibby. I also brought with me a cargo of gearbox fault on my dashboard on my just bought Jag s type 3.0 L 2003. Gear stuck in 4th but can engage reserse fine.
Today I took the car for scan and got the following codes:
Gearbox-P0730, P0736, P0732, P0731
Engine -P1582, also p0731, p0732
After clearing these codes, the car drives normal but the technician told me that I should not bank on it. He it needs to recondition the gearbox.
Please could anyone help me,what step should I take?
Thanks
Yesterday I introduced myself to this forum as Comrade Gibby. I also brought with me a cargo of gearbox fault on my dashboard on my just bought Jag s type 3.0 L 2003. Gear stuck in 4th but can engage reserse fine.
Today I took the car for scan and got the following codes:
Gearbox-P0730, P0736, P0732, P0731
Engine -P1582, also p0731, p0732
After clearing these codes, the car drives normal but the technician told me that I should not bank on it. He it needs to recondition the gearbox.
Please could anyone help me,what step should I take?
Thanks
I just want to give a feedback on theabove thread. I managed to buy the parts-sump pan which comes with the filter,sleeve and new 21 sump bolts at £103 from British parts.
The garage charged £100 for oil andlabour. The gearbox fault light is gone and the car is changing gears smoothlyexcept 1st gear which engages a bit forcefully,and 3rd gear produces some squealing soundwhen engaging.
I asked the technician if there weresome metals in the drained oil or old sump pan, he said no, but the oil wasvery dirt, burnt and very low, almost 2 litres.
The jar is on the road now and onobservation. I really appreciate all hon members who tried their best to givesome pieces of advice.
Please hon members advise, once againthanks.
#33
Feedback on the thread gearbox fault codes
Hello Honourable members,
Yesterday I introduced myself to this forum as Comrade Gibby. I also brought with me a cargo of gearbox fault on my dashboard on my just bought Jag s type 3.0 L 2003. Gear stuck in 4th but can engage reserse fine.
Today I took the car for scan and got the following codes:
Gearbox-P0730, P0736, P0732, P0731
Engine -P1582, also p0731, p0732
After clearing these codes, the car drives normal but the technician told me that I should not bank on it. He it needs to recondition the gearbox.
Please could anyone help me,what step should I take?
Thanks
Yesterday I introduced myself to this forum as Comrade Gibby. I also brought with me a cargo of gearbox fault on my dashboard on my just bought Jag s type 3.0 L 2003. Gear stuck in 4th but can engage reserse fine.
Today I took the car for scan and got the following codes:
Gearbox-P0730, P0736, P0732, P0731
Engine -P1582, also p0731, p0732
After clearing these codes, the car drives normal but the technician told me that I should not bank on it. He it needs to recondition the gearbox.
Please could anyone help me,what step should I take?
Thanks
I just want to give a feedback on theabove thread. I managed to buy the parts-sump pan which comes with the filter,sleeve and new 21 sump bolts at £103 from British parts.
The garage charged £100 for oil andlabour. The gearbox fault light is gone and the car is changing gears smoothlyexcept 1st gear which engages a bit forcefully,and 3rd gear produces some squealing soundwhen engaging.
I asked the technician if there weresome metals in the drained oil or old sump pan, he said no, but the oil wasvery dirt, burnt and very low, almost 2 litres.
The jar is on the road now and onobservation. I really appreciate all hon members who tried their best to givesome pieces of advice.
Please hon. members advice, once againthanks.
#34
Feedback on Gearbox Fault Code
Yesterday I introduced myself to this forum as Comrade Gibby. I also brought with me a cargo of gearbox fault on my dashboard on my just bought Jag s type 3.0 L 2003. Gear stuck in 4th but can engage reserse fine.
Today I took the car for scan and got the following codes:
Gearbox-P0730, P0736, P0732, P0731
Engine -P1582, also p0731, p0732
After clearing these codes, the car drives normal but the technician told me that I should not bank on it. He it needs to recondition the gearbox.
Please could anyone help me,what step should I take?
Thanks
I just want to give a feedback on theabove thread. I managed to buy the parts-sump pan which comes with the filter,sleeve and new 21 sump bolts at £103 from British parts.
The garage charged £100 for oil andlabour. The gearbox fault light is gone and the car is changing gears smoothlyexcept 1st gear which engages a bit forcefully,and 3rd gear produces some squealing soundwhen engaging.
I asked the technician if there weresome metals in the drained oil or old sump pan, he said no, but the oil wasvery dirt, burnt and very low, almost 2 litres.
The jar is on the road now and onobservation. I really appreciate all hon members who tried their best to givesome pieces of advice.
Please hon. members advice, once againthanks.
Today I took the car for scan and got the following codes:
Gearbox-P0730, P0736, P0732, P0731
Engine -P1582, also p0731, p0732
After clearing these codes, the car drives normal but the technician told me that I should not bank on it. He it needs to recondition the gearbox.
Please could anyone help me,what step should I take?
Thanks
I just want to give a feedback on theabove thread. I managed to buy the parts-sump pan which comes with the filter,sleeve and new 21 sump bolts at £103 from British parts.
The garage charged £100 for oil andlabour. The gearbox fault light is gone and the car is changing gears smoothlyexcept 1st gear which engages a bit forcefully,and 3rd gear produces some squealing soundwhen engaging.
I asked the technician if there weresome metals in the drained oil or old sump pan, he said no, but the oil wasvery dirt, burnt and very low, almost 2 litres.
The jar is on the road now and onobservation. I really appreciate all hon members who tried their best to givesome pieces of advice.
Please hon. members advice, once againthanks.
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