DTC P1386: VARIABLE CAM TIMING OVERADVANCED


Possible Causes
Bank 2 VVT solenoid valve to PCM PWM drive circuit fault.
Bank 2 VVT actuator oil supply fault.
Bank 2 VVT actuator stuck.

HOW DO I TEST FOR THIS AND HOW DO I FIX IT? CAM SOMEONE PLEASE HELP.

 

Please put your car details in your profile.

 

I did i dont know why they dont show but its a
2000 S TYPE 3.0

 

My 2000 s type

 

Has the car been serviced regularly and recently, using proper oil, oil filter, air filter etc? Which oil?

The JTIS workshop manual (ebay $10) says what to test and of course you'd also need to check harnesses etc and various mechanical items.

 

I used the original oil filter but 10w 30 full syntetic oil (its hard to get 5w 30 where i am in Guatemala) k&n air filter i havent changed the spark plugs or any thing else its due for a tune up.

 

The biggest issues with vvts are oil supply issues. Useally debris like oil sludge in oil pickup screen, loose bearing clearances as an engine wears, and oil passages blocked/partially blocked to and in vvts. The first (i always shoot for cheapest potential likely fix) use a good engine flush(2 bottle for our higher than normal capacity engines) follow directions on bottle. Change oil and switch to a 20-50w. Leave out 1 quart and add 1 qt auto tranny atf(highly detergent, more so than engine oil and wont hurt anything) while you have overly retarded cam codes, it may be an issue of apply and blockage that keeps pressure in vvts too long when supposed to release. Most times its retarded cams( like the 1 i am doing right now....try this first and go from there, rememebr to clears codes and give time, you may have to clear codes a few times as it may continue to reset. But afterthat if it cont. Then further diag is needed as to em signal and vvt function

 

Wow! So pouring a quart of ATF into the engine instead of the final quart of motor oil is a suitable detergent option for clearing blocked oil passages, Brutal? Never heard that one before. We all learn something new every day thanks to Brutal....

I'm wondering - should this be considered as normal maintenance for a VVT engine every now and again, and if so, at what mileage interval would you recommend?

 

this is all most as old as i am, an auto tranny has to stay totally clean with all the small passages for valve body operation so atf is very detergent. Thats why they are extremely clean inside when taken apart. (unless theyve had no maintenance). If you change the oil often enough for YOUR driving conditions, its usually not needed. although I do drop in a qt a few 100 miles before I do an oil change on mine when I remember. Its still totally clean inside then engine as evidence when I replaced the cam cover gasket last year @135K.
The stype I just finished had vvt retarded codes. and after draining oil adding 1 gallon of MOC engine flush topped with the remainder of oil(thats per bottle directions for this product). ran for 30 minutes then drained and filled with 20-50w...no more VVT codes..And they were returners after clearing and driving beforehand...This is why I recommend cheap stuff first if its likely

 

So will you tell your client to stay with 20W-50 in this particular S-Type from now on, or will you advise him to go back to 5W-30 after this 20W-50 is done?

 

same question should i continue to use the 20w 50 with the tranny fluid or is it just as a one time flush thing, thanks for the advise my car only has 50k it shouldnt be something that bad at least i hope it isnt

 

I would do it with 20-50 if it works from here on out, and the tranny fluid for at least the next couple changes. Then you can add like i do a couple 100 miles before you plan on a oil change

 

The idea is to stay with it from here on out since thicker oil will increase oil pressure from not only being thicker, but also it wont escape past bearings as easily, therefor will have more pessure in the top of the engine to operate the vvt's properly.

 

Thanks ill try and let you know how it goes, nice Nissan i had one fully accesorized for offroading they are great.

 

thanks, its alittle more modded now than that pic....now supercharged with cams, ported heads, forged pistons and billet rods. ( I did all the work). I made my own stainless exhaust from the headers out, alittle more lift and custom machined street locked/beadlocked wheels

 

Hi Brutal how are you I have one question The 20w 50 oil is regular oil or full synthetic I only found full sysnthetic in 5w 30, 10w 30 , 5w 50 and 10w 50 but no 20w 50. What should i do use regular oil? or one of these synthetics and witch one?

 

I just found a 20w 60 fully synthetic made by Motul they said it was a high performance racing oil very high detergent would that work?

 

Would this apply to the 4.0 V8

 

when we do this we use the dino oil 20-50w that we put in the older straight 6, 4.0's

 

yes, it fixes more vvt issues than not for advanced or retarded cel's