help with code p1386
Yes, I did see the pre-oil change addition of ATF - great suggestion. I'm assuming I'll need a flush too, though, and I'm kind of lost as to how to do it.
Also - I should have given more symptoms. It idles roughly after starting and seems to smooth out after that, although not all the time. It has been this way for about 6 months (I know - bad jag owner!) and now a new code appears for the Cat converter. When I first got the car about 9 months ago it had sat for a while and it was about three quarts low on oil!
Thanks!
Tony
Also - I should have given more symptoms. It idles roughly after starting and seems to smooth out after that, although not all the time. It has been this way for about 6 months (I know - bad jag owner!) and now a new code appears for the Cat converter. When I first got the car about 9 months ago it had sat for a while and it was about three quarts low on oil!
Thanks!
Tony
Rough idle = misfire (probably) / air leak. Aha: 2000. Yours is the kind that DOES suffer the perished rubber elbow. Just fix it 
Cat codes commonly get thrown for this but fix the leak and they may also be fixed. Change the coils while you have the manifold off. The existing threads are just made for you
I don't see why you'd need a flush but so far you may not have any other problems. Fix the ones above, disconnect the battery (forces fuelling relearn) and see.
Do the reading - lots of useful warnings and tips that will save $$$

Cat codes commonly get thrown for this but fix the leak and they may also be fixed. Change the coils while you have the manifold off. The existing threads are just made for you

I don't see why you'd need a flush but so far you may not have any other problems. Fix the ones above, disconnect the battery (forces fuelling relearn) and see.
Do the reading - lots of useful warnings and tips that will save $$$
+1 with jagv8 follow his advise.
Don't worry about the flush just yet as mentioned.
For a couple of more dollars replace all vacuum lines, should run under $100.00, (Nalley Jaguar) has great prices and don't forget to mention your a jaguarforums member to receive your discount!
Don't worry about the flush just yet as mentioned.
For a couple of more dollars replace all vacuum lines, should run under $100.00, (Nalley Jaguar) has great prices and don't forget to mention your a jaguarforums member to receive your discount!
The garage called and said that they found that the oil is dirty and probably clogged the driver's side solenoid (exactly as the JagForum experts expected!) and the connector for #4 coil is 'barely hanging on'.
Sanity check - Price quoted for the work is ~$800 + ~200 for diagnostics. does that seem in the ballpark?
Thanks!
Tony
Sanity check - Price quoted for the work is ~$800 + ~200 for diagnostics. does that seem in the ballpark?
Thanks!
Tony
got the car back from the garage - runs like a champ! Drivers side solenoid and coil#4. Now to try to keep the oil as clean as possible. And fix my 2nd window regulator. and... :-)
Thanks to all for the advice!
Tony
Thanks to all for the advice!
Tony
Yes, I did see the pre-oil change addition of ATF - great suggestion. I'm assuming I'll need a flush too, though, and I'm kind of lost as to how to do it.
Also - I should have given more symptoms. It idles roughly after starting and seems to smooth out after that, although not all the time. It has been this way for about 6 months (I know - bad jag owner!) and now a new code appears for the Cat converter. When I first got the car about 9 months ago it had sat for a while and it was about three quarts low on oil!
Thanks!
Tony
Also - I should have given more symptoms. It idles roughly after starting and seems to smooth out after that, although not all the time. It has been this way for about 6 months (I know - bad jag owner!) and now a new code appears for the Cat converter. When I first got the car about 9 months ago it had sat for a while and it was about three quarts low on oil!
Thanks!
Tony
No clue. Should I just phone a near by dealer and ask them to check for me? Bring the car in for TSb's? How do I go about it?
BMWm5lover,
Since mine was running rough at idle when cold, it was definitely not a false flag. Do you experience roughness at idle? I waited too long to get mine fixed, and now have a cat code to deal with. Here in Maryland they are emissions crazy. But I think I can get a waiver for the next two years because I spent so much to try to resolve the issue.
-Tony
Since mine was running rough at idle when cold, it was definitely not a false flag. Do you experience roughness at idle? I waited too long to get mine fixed, and now have a cat code to deal with. Here in Maryland they are emissions crazy. But I think I can get a waiver for the next two years because I spent so much to try to resolve the issue.
-Tony
Last edited by Zooom; Aug 29, 2011 at 02:28 PM. Reason: removed html tags
I am having a similar problem and have started another thread about it, but for those in this thread I was wondering did your sound, sound like this?
EngineRattleOnStart.wmv
Mine only makes the sound on start, and I finally got around to recording it after 2 shops couldn't figure out the problem.
EngineRattleOnStart.wmv
Mine only makes the sound on start, and I finally got around to recording it after 2 shops couldn't figure out the problem.
Wow, never heard that one before. You kind of cut it off short. Does the engine keep running and whats it sound like then? I might guess a belt or tensioner's. Good luck with it.
Last edited by Amadauss; Sep 16, 2011 at 02:05 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
philwarner
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
25
Jun 26, 2021 05:43 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)









