2000 s type 3.0

hi to all i need help finding possible causes for fuse number 4 in the passenger side panel blowing out this fuse controls the dash lights maybe including stereo [by the way the lights on the stereo will not turn off] also controls. pcm relays fuel pump . Rear electronic Module .
.. went through 4 five amp fuses while i disableled various items via the fuse box stereo power mirrors etc. to see if i could narrow down the problem with no luck

the car was working very good the day before other than the ongoing gearbox error light.

could be related to the fact i had the climate control at 95 to warm up in the morning car drove around the block and she died.



help me bring my ***** back to life

 

Time to get your hands dirty, it sounds like a short in the body harness, do you have a copy of the JTIS? It has a wealth of information invaluable for tracing down shorts.
First step is to get a good digital multi meter. (one that has continuity testing resistance measuring and voltage readings.

What kind of tranny fault did you encounter?

What type of climate has the car been lately? Snow? Slush? Rain?

 

The tranny is a ford or gate auto. the tranny works good unless i push it hard it goes to gearbox fault and has only 3 gears. i stop and turn off the car for a minuet and its all back to shifting all gears

i bought the car a day before went from living in orange county ca to living for one cold night here in the dry desert of hesperia ca. the car is in great shape no rust and low miles for ca car at 140k

 

What year and engine?

 

2000 s type 3.0

 

here are some other issues i found with the car initira switch looks to be 1/2 way to the up position did not have time to reset today

fog lamps not working

stereo lights stay on all the time now> after the blown fuse happened

when i intall a new 5 amp fuse in spot #4 the stereo starts playing and CD changer cycles

found the valet mode active > i disarmed by pushing the glove box botton

 

seepage in battery cell 2 and four

 

If the battery's bad the car will do all sort of weird things and have weird faults. Modern cars just cannot tolerate a bad battery.

 

Still doesn't explain the blown fuse, are you able to check the resistance across the socket of the fuse? perhaps a bad ground? chaffed wire?

 

Is this stereo / alarm etc factory or aftermarket.

Take care,

George

 

Good point. Any aftermarket add-ons at all, of any kind?

 

No everything is stock> no add on's at all. could be the fog lamps not working has developed corrosion and shorted.or maybe i should be only looking at the connections related to the number 4 fuse circuit? fuel pump pcm rem Instrument panel illumination [stereo illumination i know is a problem does not turn off ? taking the battery today to get tested free and then reset everything [initira switch alarm] and buy a pack of 5 amp mini fuses and see what happens. it does start every time i replace the fuse in question and drives for a few feet. thanks guys lets keep the ideas coming please

[ i am in so cal area if anyone has experience and scanners electric testers and has a few hours to help let me know thanks

 

Only something on the #4 circuit will cause the #4 fuse to keep blowing.

I'd help out but I'm clear across the country.

Take care,

George

 

The ground for the motor at the top of the firewall is about to fall off ,it took 15 min. to tighten it down and then it stopped no more threads, o noooo what a mess >need to remove same and spacer it.

 

This is the worst kind of fault to have, and I'm an old spark chaser. It sounds to me like you have an intermittent short to ground, or a failing electronic component. You have the right idea when you are trying to isolate the fault by disconnecting components.

Here's a link to a wiring schematic;

http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co...ec%20Guide.pdf

Begin by familiarizing yourself to all the items connected with that fuse. Remove all non-essential items at once and run/test the vehicle until your convinced that the fault is gone. If it's still blowing fuses, then you have at least narrowed down the problem. If not, then start adding items one at a time until the problem returns.

When you think you've got it sorted, then you can follow the wires and inspect for damage. If you can't find any damage, then replace the suspect component.

Electrical faults of this nature take time, so be patient and through. Be orderly and methodical. Make notes. Test all pins on connectors for continuity to ground. If you don't think you're up to it, find someone who is and get them to help. Take your time, be patient, and you'll find it.

Best of luck and happy hunting.

 

Did you throughly clean the eyelet and the ground point, I would use scotch-brite(tm) or equiv scouring pad, re-ground then spary a thin film of battery terminal protectant.

 

yes always

 

the temp in the morning when i started the car was much colder than its former environment ,what about the module that heats up the cat converter.

 

turned out to be the ground to the battery at the body inside the spare tire well. 3 relays out and fuse number 4 in the passenger kick panel ... these cars are very sensitive to bad ground

 

anyone else ever have this problem other than ME?