Once again I agree with everything control issues just wrote

he is spot on the money and exactly what I’m thinking as well

I just couldn’t write it all out because I’m posting from my phone and I’ve got really fat fingers and probably carpal tunnel by now so I tried to minimize my typing.

However I agree with you as well that you are on the last leg of his race. You probably did not need 90% of those parts that you threw at it however the suggestion for the torque wrench is important
you need to Make sure that when you are tightening any intake manifold or throttlebody gasket which uses a raised bump as it’s sealing surface or rubber o ring that you don’t over squish them and flatten out that bump by over torquing the bolts.
when you over torque them, you flattened that sealing ridge on the gaskets and they no longer seal can you get a massive vacuum leak.

The leak is Not so massive that you can hear it or even see a change in the way the way the engine runs (like when u spray carb cleaner to find a vacuum leak). that’s why your scanner Set in that run time graph mode is vital to look at because your engine will respond and show the afr changes in the data but you won’t hear a change in the engine running sound

 

Be sure to get a 1/4 inch torque wrench. 3/8 will not adjust down low enough. I got a Tekon that I do recommend. You will need to convert your Newton meters to inch lbs to have better accuracy with the setting dial and do not mistake inch lbs with foot lbs.

 

hey guys UPDATE:

I replaced the spark plugs , set the old MAF sensor back on , properly torque the plenum bolts to 20 nm , reset ECM by disconnecting battery holding cables together for 10 sec..

results : started car and drove car several times NO codes or pending CODES .. GOOD NEWS .. tomorrow my son will be here I will take data down while he is driving - I m curious how that has changed !!

so far I m excited guys - couldn't have done it without your help guys- MANY THANKS