Just bought a 2002 S-Type Sport, 3.0 V6 with 95000 miles. I'm having problems with hesitation & misfires, especially under load, such as going up hills where it becomes fairly pronounced. I will sometimes hear a bit of hesitation at idle also, but the car generally runs well while cruising as long as your not going up hill. I hooked my OBD2 reader and got just a P0306. Another thing is the heater seems to take quite some time to warm up. I don't know if this is typical of this car, but thought I should mention it.

I'm new to jaguars AND this car and I have no knowledge of prior maintenance of the car. I'm aware the intake will have to come off to get at the plugs, and I'd really like to do the right things as long as it's off. I want to get this car off to a good start. It looks like it was well maintained up to this point. While I'm not a mechanic, I'm used to doing work similar to this on my 95 camry and 68 camaro.

So, I'm wondering what my laundry list is going to be here. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Look up threads about
air leaks
coils
hose elbow
misfires

Very DIY fixable - and be sure to look in the FAQs as there are photos as well - BUT you won't be able to see them yet as you're too new (remember that newbie stuff you got told as you joined...)

 

ok, thanks. yea, I've been reading the threads. I had pretty specific details in the symptoms, so figured it would be good to post a new thread.

thanks again!

 

i'm a little confused on one thing. It looks like 2002 was a year when things changed a bit on this car. The build date in the door jamb says 09/01 so I assume it's an early 2002. I think I'd read that the cyl positions changed so I'm trying to determine for sure where cyl 6 is. I hope it's driver side! I want to replace just #6 coil first to see if that fixes it.

 

Your right you have the earlier pre facelift model.

Here's the cylinder numbering.

 

nice, so it looks like I'm the lucky one. #6 didn't change so no chance for confusion AND it's on the driver side!

 

I have a 2000 S-Type 3.0 that had a P0306 which was misfiring. At first I was led to believe that the #6 cylinder was on the drivers side. I changed the coils out with the cylinder next to it and the misfire continued. I then read about the change in the locations of the cylinders and decided I had to remove the intake plenum to get at the #6 cylinder. I did so and discovered that oil had leaked pass the valve cover gasket and soaked the coil boot causing it to misfire. I replaced the gasket and put in a new coil and it cleared up the misfire and ran real smooth. If the number #6 coil is on the driver's side your lucky and it's a much easier fix than getting at the passenger side coil. If you find out that it's on the passenger side, I took numerous pictures of the tear down. I can send pictures to you if you have the need. I'm new to the jag forum board and still trying to figure out how to do certain things. Good luck with your repair job.

 

Then I'm really confused. The attachment from Norri shows that the position of #6 did not change during the 2002 mods. What did you find that gave that information?

 

I also thought the info on coolant system draining was interesting on a couple points. One, the instructions for intake removal on newer 2002's don't require draining the coolant. Two, there sure are a lot of steps to bleeding. Another post in the forum indicated you could just drain and refill. Less is usually better in my book.

 

Regarding cyl #6, I also found this in iguides PDF's (which I assume are from JTIS):

This is for early 2002 MY.

 

and here is an intake removal on a 2000 s-type that doesn't include draining the coolant. I guess this is all about eliminating the risk of getting air in the system?

 

changed out #6 coil and it's running like a champ. I noticed just a tiny hesitation going up a hill early but it was good once it warmed up.

 

Good job! Glad to hear you got it fixed.

 

I'm glad you were able to change out the #6 on the driver's side and it fixed the problem for you. Do you think the coil went bad or was there oil in the bottom of the spark plug tube? If there was oil, you will probably have to change out the valve gasket at some point.

In my particular case on the location of the #6 cylinder, I read a post about the change in cylinder ordering, but all the diagrams I saw were written as Norri described. But since I changed out the presumed driver's side #6 coil and it didn't work, I was left to tear down the intake plenum and found the oil in the spark plug tube on the passenger's side. Since I had the P0306 code, that would indicate that the #6 cylinder on my car was on the passenger's side.

Good luck and I hope your Jag runs well for you.

 

Something odd there, #1 & #6 have not moved despite the change in numbering.

#6 was also known as #3B as I recall.

 

JagV8, thanks for that info, it may explain some of the numbering confusion, but with my particular situation with the numbering system I would have expected a P0303 code with my misfire, but I got a P0306. I wonder if there could be a code programming error identifying the #6 cylinder. Seems like it should be unlikely, but stranger things have occurred.

 

I don't think so but it IS a puzzle. Others have had the right cylinder flagged, at least as I recall. Still, misfire detection is hard for the PCM as it has to see tiny oddities and home in on what/why/where.

hmm, maybe there was a newer software version and you car hasn't got it. Not convinced, though.

 

I checked the plug when I changed the coil. It was a bit rusty around the plug, but I didn't see any oil. I agree with JagV8. I was reading how a misfire is detected. It's more complicated than I would have thought. #6 does fire next to #3 so, maybe ...

Thanks all,
car is really running nice now.

There is one thing I'm wondering about. I've never even test-driven this car before, so I don't have any feel at all for what it should feel & sound like. I don't like that feeling since I normally notice even the tiniest changes in the cars I drive. To me it has a sound like the RPM's are higher than they really are. Like at about 1500 it sounds like 2000+. Is that normal? Is it just me . Radiator fan?! ha ha.

 

An OBD tool (of the kind with live data) can read the actual RPM (don't look while driving!). Idle should be er, I don't know for your engine but mine's about 650. I guess different for each of the engines. If you check the RPM, also check the fuel trims (at idle & at 2500rpm) as an air leak will show up that way and is a common cause of high revs or holding on to them longer than expected.

An elm327 will do but I know some have had trouble with the early cars and the free software.