The dealer procedure when programming a new PCM for a car is something like:
download existing data if it can be read
swap modules
upload the data or else the "as built" data
do any other required config
test

I don't know that a dealer can reprogram a different non-new PCM to a car. They would not normally do so (I think) and the procedure may not be obvious. A new one is known as a "green" PCM, I think. They are horrifically expensive.

One thing a dealer can partially do is check an existing PCM to see if it's apparently-working in that if it responds properly to their OBD tool (IDS) - if need be when taken out of the car - then it is already mostly OK

However, that would not find intermittent connector/transistor/etc internal problems. I don't think the dealers have a full PCM tester. There are firms who rebuild (reman.) them. Maybe try one of those.

 

I saw that there a several places online that repair ecms. This is what I am leaning towards now.

I am certain that it isn't the battery or the terminals. I have changed the battery and inspected the terminals. They look like new still.

A few months ago a purchased a used ecm off ebay and put it in my car. I received a lot of different errors and the car still didn't start. The ECM i purchased was listed in "unknown" condition. It was cheap so I took a shot. I likely just received another bad ECM.

I called the dealer to discuss changing the ecm, but the maintenace crew are always on the line with someone else

 

If it goes into anti-theft I believe it signals the issue via the PATS light (the one top centre of dash that flashes every few seconds when the car's off). I think a tech posted something about this. But first look at your PATS light when you turn ignition on (position II). It should do the same every time. Watch it for a minute or two before trying to start the engine and see if the behaviour matches other cars.

Some error conditions result in flash codes (think Morse) and if you count the flashes you can then look up their meaning.

 

I talked to a dealer and they told me that I can't just swap it on my own due to the PATS system. I beleive the PATS is fine on my car too, because when I enter ETM on the IC, the PATS sections shows me 5C. This is suppose to mean that the PATS is good and ready to start.

Looks like I'm going to look online for a ECM repair center and send mine off.

 

I think 5C is more likely a version #. But, same outcome.

 

Have you every seen anything official on the IC engineering test mode?
I was just wondering if there was anything definitive on this test. It seems like it could be useful if we had a complete list of the different meanings of what it displays.

 

BradMilton:
Have you got a copy of this? Maybe it will help??
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I've previously posted details and links both to the jag TSB and other sources - Search for
engineering test mode

You need to be aware that it is NOT a general-purpose OBD tool and the kinds of things it knows and stores are limited.

 

inquiring minds want to know, what was the final verdict?

 

Sorry for not updating this. I had the ECM sent to ECMdepot.com and they said it had several burnt IC's. When I received it back I still had the exact same problem.
So I doubt that I actually had any burnt IC's in my computer. ECMdepot just said that so they can charge me the whole $700 instead of the $100 checking fee. I decided not to waste anymore money on this and I traded it in for a Mercedes E550.

Good luck everyone else with this problem. Hopefully you will have better luck than I did.