I know this is a commonly posted problem
#1
I know this is a commonly posted problem
but I just started getting the dreaded 45-55mph bucking misfire. I know I need to check and see if the tensioners ever were updated. I've had the car for 4 years now and it had 82k miles on it when I purchased it. It has 96k on it now as it has been mostly sitting and over the last year has only been driven on weekends. My question is shouldn't it be misfiring and bucking all the time if the timing has actually jumped a gear as described in the misfire guide here on the forum? It only does it to me on a hot day when the car has been driven for more than 30 minutes. I'm about to go through the car and check the chains in addition to doing sparkplugs and testing the coils and get the transmission fluid and filter changed and then I plan to drive it daily going forward. The tensioners and guides will be replaced regardless if the plastic ones are still in there. I just wonder if I'm missing a detail with when I'm noticing the stutter? The car has had a new rear electric module and new fuel pump installed in the last year and I recently did the brakes myself. It just seems like a waste to let the car sit.
#4
If there are miss-fires the odds are you have stored codes.
So first run down to the parts store and get the codes read for free. Before they unhook the code reader make SURE they erase all codes. Before spending any money you want to be sure the problem repeats.
Post back with what you find. But be aware the misfires could be from the timing jumping on the gear to. But hopefully it just needs coils and plugs and cam cover gaskets at this point.
Then you will need to make a decision about the tensioners and chains.
.
.
.
So first run down to the parts store and get the codes read for free. Before they unhook the code reader make SURE they erase all codes. Before spending any money you want to be sure the problem repeats.
Post back with what you find. But be aware the misfires could be from the timing jumping on the gear to. But hopefully it just needs coils and plugs and cam cover gaskets at this point.
Then you will need to make a decision about the tensioners and chains.
.
.
.
#5
I don't have any oil leaks, which leads me to believe it's already been done before as I would think it would be leaking by now, but I will check soon. The only leak I have is a very small power steering leak that I recently noticed. I know it's time for plugs and I'm leaning towards coil as the issue because it is so intermittent and seems dependent on temperature. I don't have a check engine light on and that's what is throwing me off. I've yet to read about anyone having this issue without a check engine light.
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
I don't have any oil leaks, which leads me to believe it's already been done before as I would think it would be leaking by now, but I will check soon. The only leak I have is a very small power steering leak that I recently noticed. I know it's time for plugs and I'm leaning towards coil as the issue because it is so intermittent and seems dependent on temperature. I don't have a check engine light on and that's what is throwing me off. I've yet to read about anyone having this issue without a check engine light.
As mentioned - Get the codes read, then look at that coil(s) (remove 6 bolts holding the coil cover in place and pull the coil) any wetness at all or any dried oil residue and not only should you change that coil but all associated cam cover gaskets on that side of the engine.
Don't assume cause you haven't seen an oil leak externally - that oil leak issues aren't lurking beneath the cover...
#9
#10
#11
#12
One other comment. You could have stored codes without the check engine light being on.
Miss-fires area a statistical thing and you must exceed a certain threshold before the light comes on. Many miss-fires and the check engine light will flash. This indicates you could be damaging the catalytic converters and you should stop driving until it's repaired.
Even when everything is operating properly there is a small percentage of miss-fires because the combustion process is not perfect.
So the aftermarket code scanners are crude tools compared to the factory service stuff. They can see miss-fires on a level that the consumer code readers will never pick up.
The oil is on the outside of the plugs. What happens is you create a path to ground. Remember this is dirty oil. Not pure clean oil. So the high voltage will eventually break the oil down and arc to ground. This builds carbon tracks from the coil boot to ground.
So yes you are right but the fluid is usually dirty oil and can have some water mixed into it to. This is because the coils are really not sealed but only shielded from water coming in from outside the engine. You have seen all the threads about not washing the engine. This is partly why.
.
.
.
Miss-fires area a statistical thing and you must exceed a certain threshold before the light comes on. Many miss-fires and the check engine light will flash. This indicates you could be damaging the catalytic converters and you should stop driving until it's repaired.
Even when everything is operating properly there is a small percentage of miss-fires because the combustion process is not perfect.
So the aftermarket code scanners are crude tools compared to the factory service stuff. They can see miss-fires on a level that the consumer code readers will never pick up.
The oil is on the outside of the plugs. What happens is you create a path to ground. Remember this is dirty oil. Not pure clean oil. So the high voltage will eventually break the oil down and arc to ground. This builds carbon tracks from the coil boot to ground.
So yes you are right but the fluid is usually dirty oil and can have some water mixed into it to. This is because the coils are really not sealed but only shielded from water coming in from outside the engine. You have seen all the threads about not washing the engine. This is partly why.
.
.
.
The following users liked this post:
Jumpin' Jag Flash (08-04-2014)
#13
An update. I pulled the coils today and there is no oil leak. Everything was very clean. I replaced the plugs today and will drive the car daily starting tomorrow. Two of the coils were previously replaced as I could see based on a slightly different part number. If it isn't an updated Jaguar coil, it may have been a Ford part number as the part number followed the same format. If the misfire persists which did not happen on my short test drive I'll get a tester to see which cylinder is misfiring and replace the coil. Thanks for the help on what to look for. A couple of the plugs looked very rough, the two rear cylinders.
#14
#15
I don't mean to hijack, but has anyone bought aftermarket coils before? I'm looking at a set of 8 for $200 and they look OEM but states aftermarket with 10yr warranty. On the other hand, I could get 8 Bosch for $90 but the height on the top of the plugs looks much taller and I don't think I could fit the covers over them.
#16
#17
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)