Is it like most cars, just two bolts on the back of the caliber? Anyone know what size it is? Any tight spots requiring a wobble or anything? Did you have to use a braker bar to get the bolts off?

Thanks in advance.

 

What year/model do you have? front or rear?

 

'03 4.2 NA. Both front and rear.

Thanks

 

The fronts are pretty simple, just push the caliper back in. The rears you have to twist back in. I think that one side is clock-wise, and the other counter clock-wise...however I don't hold me to it. Good luck.

 

Just to clarify...You remove the caliper, remove the old pads and put on the new pads...To get the caliper back onto it's brackets, you are saying you PUSH THE CALIPER BACK INto the backet? And for the rears you twist them back into the brackets?

 

I'm talking about the piston. The front pistons you push back in and the rears you twist back in. The caliper itself is just two bolts, and no breaker bar should be required. Just a socket and wrench.

 

How exactly do you twist the piston back in, can you do it by hand? I've always used a C-Clamp as every job I've done couldn't be done by hand.

 

Any auto parts sells the tool, but I just used a vice grip and mah tehn fingas.

 

That's cool,man I wish I could find someone reasonably priced who will install the pads as I have zero tools. Every place either will only install OEM and others only install stuff if you buy it from them...How's the stock jack? Is it a PITA or tolerable for stock?

 

Jack=SUCKS!

 

Get a nice hydraulic floor jack and all jobs will be much easier!!

 

The front calipers are pressed back into place with something like a c-clamp. The rear calipers require a piston reset tool. looks like a metal cube that is hollow to accept a 3/8" ratchet. There are 2 nipples on the side that rests on the piston and screws back into the caliper housing. As far as a jack - badmojo said it - don't forget to chock the wheels so the car doesn't roll.
Good luck.

 

Dang, I just spend $80 on parts (sockets, hydro jack, torque wrench, C-clampand breaker bar) and didn't even get the caliper reset tool. Then I found a friend of friend who works at a tire place who will do it in his shop for $60 on the side. Think I'll return all the used parts.

 

Good plan Bacardi........be $20 better off and hassle free
Its all good

Jim

 

Now ur talking! That's a deal-and-a-half

 

OMG! I just hit "Junior Status"

(Sorry, got excited there)

 

Don't take much to do that mate! Pretty soon you can be a senior member. We really need to raise the standard on that!

 

I think SUPER sounds better than SENIOR...

 

Yeah...it does!

 

Got them on and man, did the last mechanic do a job on them. We were having difficulty getting a lugs off. We used a torque wrench just to see how tight they were. 100 <click>, 110 <click> 125 <click>. OMFG. The threads on the studs must be stretched and weaking to hell. I'm shocked they didn't snap. Maybe that was only because the wheels are hub centric.Used abreakerbar with a pipe slipped over it to remove it.Caliperswere on super tight as well. BTW, what is the correct lug torque? I used 90ft/lbs.