Interior Temperature Calibration / Adjustment?
#1
Interior Temperature Calibration / Adjustment?
I believe I've read through the various "temperature" threads but have not found this issue discussed - any thoughts?
The automatic temperature control for the interior is either hot or cold. Jack the temp up to about 85 and heat comes on, drop it to 72 and the A/C stays on till your teeth chatter. Picking temperatures in between don't seem to have much effect - no automatic regulation of temp.
I tend to adjust now for whatever season by dialing in a hot or cold temp based on above then use the fan control and choice of outlets to moderate the temperature.
Just wondering if there is a calibration or adjustment that can be made for this or what component might be failing if that is the case.
The automatic temperature control for the interior is either hot or cold. Jack the temp up to about 85 and heat comes on, drop it to 72 and the A/C stays on till your teeth chatter. Picking temperatures in between don't seem to have much effect - no automatic regulation of temp.
I tend to adjust now for whatever season by dialing in a hot or cold temp based on above then use the fan control and choice of outlets to moderate the temperature.
Just wondering if there is a calibration or adjustment that can be made for this or what component might be failing if that is the case.
#3
This can be a symptom of a dirty cabin temperature sensor. This is the one above the ignition key behind the small grille. Since it draws air in and over the sensor a layer of crud builds up. This reduces the sensitivity of the sensor, especially bad if the car has been smoked in or the cabin filter is never changed. I would first remove and clean the senor with brake or carburetor cleaner. If no change I would then replace it. Not that expensive and easy to do before swapping modules!!
It also could be a DCCV starting to act up and is sticking. By running the temperature to max and min you are forcing the DCCV to operate the solenoids. This sometimes works for a short time until they start to stick again. Has the coolant ever been flushed and changed???
.
.
.
It also could be a DCCV starting to act up and is sticking. By running the temperature to max and min you are forcing the DCCV to operate the solenoids. This sometimes works for a short time until they start to stick again. Has the coolant ever been flushed and changed???
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.
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#4
Fixed
Thanks Club -
I did as you said - pulled the small grill off, used detail vacuum to pull the dust out then used Q-tips soaked in no-residue solvent to clean the actual wire with the orange sensor on it. It was definitely coated with a shellac type dirt build up. I started up the car and could immediately hear the vent system activate. Changing the temperatures immediately caused movement in the damper system and fan speed. This wasn't happening before.
It is corrected and back to being an actual automatic temperature control now.
I did as you said - pulled the small grill off, used detail vacuum to pull the dust out then used Q-tips soaked in no-residue solvent to clean the actual wire with the orange sensor on it. It was definitely coated with a shellac type dirt build up. I started up the car and could immediately hear the vent system activate. Changing the temperatures immediately caused movement in the damper system and fan speed. This wasn't happening before.
It is corrected and back to being an actual automatic temperature control now.
The following 2 users liked this post by iflashe:
Amadauss (05-29-2012),
Jumpin' Jag Flash (10-29-2013)
#5
#6
The following users liked this post:
Amadauss (05-29-2012)
#7
This can be a symptom of a dirty cabin temperature sensor. This is the one above the ignition key behind the small grille. Since it draws air in and over the sensor a layer of crud builds up. This reduces the sensitivity of the sensor, especially bad if the car has been smoked in or the cabin filter is never changed. I would first remove and clean the senor with brake or carburetor cleaner. If no change I would then replace it. Not that expensive and easy to do before swapping modules!!
It also could be a DCCV starting to act up and is sticking. By running the temperature to max and min you are forcing the DCCV to operate the solenoids. This sometimes works for a short time until they start to stick again. Has the coolant ever been flushed and changed???
.
.
.
It also could be a DCCV starting to act up and is sticking. By running the temperature to max and min you are forcing the DCCV to operate the solenoids. This sometimes works for a short time until they start to stick again. Has the coolant ever been flushed and changed???
.
.
.
Thanks Club -
I did as you said - pulled the small grill off, used detail vacuum to pull the dust out then used Q-tips soaked in no-residue solvent to clean the actual wire with the orange sensor on it. It was definitely coated with a shellac type dirt build up. I started up the car and could immediately hear the vent system activate. Changing the temperatures immediately caused movement in the damper system and fan speed. This wasn't happening before.
It is corrected and back to being an actual automatic temperature control now.
I did as you said - pulled the small grill off, used detail vacuum to pull the dust out then used Q-tips soaked in no-residue solvent to clean the actual wire with the orange sensor on it. It was definitely coated with a shellac type dirt build up. I started up the car and could immediately hear the vent system activate. Changing the temperatures immediately caused movement in the damper system and fan speed. This wasn't happening before.
It is corrected and back to being an actual automatic temperature control now.
I used compressed air/CRC Mass Air cleaner/and compressed air to finish it.
$7.99 from Advance Auto or Auto Zone.
CRC/Mass air flow sensor cleaner (05110) | Electrical Parts Cleaner | AutoZone.com_
The following 3 users liked this post by NvmyJag:
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#8
Glad it worked for you!!
I chased a similar problem for several months on my wife's 2003 Lincoln LS. Even changed the entire dash unit! Thankfully they made a lot more Lincoln LS's and I got a complete climate control unit and stereo for $125 off of EBay.
Changed the DCCV even pulled and changed the evaporator sensors because they are only about $20 each.
Finally I cleaned that one sensor and it started working correctly. My wife is a smoker so I always add that in too.
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.
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I chased a similar problem for several months on my wife's 2003 Lincoln LS. Even changed the entire dash unit! Thankfully they made a lot more Lincoln LS's and I got a complete climate control unit and stereo for $125 off of EBay.
Changed the DCCV even pulled and changed the evaporator sensors because they are only about $20 each.
Finally I cleaned that one sensor and it started working correctly. My wife is a smoker so I always add that in too.
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