'03 STR and my keyfob went dead. I replaced the battery but it's not doing anything. The bigger problem is, my key only works in the ignition and not the door lock. So even if there's a way to reprogram the fob, I can't get into the car to do so. Any suggestions?

 

All the cars came with a minimum of 2 keys but I take it you don't know who has the other.

A locksmith is about your only hope for the minimum cost/damage.

All he needs is to open the door as a start but you NEED 2 keys for the door & ignition and 2 working fobs.

 

I was only given 1 key when I bought the car in 2008. Once I do manage to get in, is there a way to reprogram my key?

 

The car already knows your key.

If you get another you'll need OE-type tool with both keys.

 

Doesn't make a lot of sense that your ignition key won't actuate the door lock - except if the door lock is stuck from dis-use. This IS a frequent occurrence on these cars. If the key doesn't insert all the way into the lock cylinder on the door.....you likely have the problem, which may convince the uninitiated that the key doesn't fit the door. Get you some Teflon, or better yet, Teflon with penetrating oil (Lowe's sells both) and, if you have access to one, a syringe, with a long, tapered dispensing nose on it. Stick that inside the keyhole, past the little door that keeps FOD out, and inject some penetrant. Next step can be done with the key, but particularly as you only have one, I would recommend a stiff piece of bailing wire or similar. Work the key/wire in and out of the keyhole repeatedly whilst squirting some penetrant on the interface (at the point of insertion)

Be patient, yet persistent. After years of never using a key, it will need to be fully wetted with lubricant before complete penetration will be allowed. Once you finally get the key buried in her to the hilt, just a few more strokes and you'll unlock all her secrets.

Not that the bootlid lock has likely seen any more key-action than the driver's door, but you could always try going in through the boot and folding the rear seatbacks down....

 

Had the car been in daily use? Or had it been sitting for weeks when you tried the fob? If the latter, I wonder if the vehicle battery went dead and thus no response to a perfectly good fob.

One other thought: Check the voltage on the new fob battery. Sometimes those little coin batteries sit on the shelf for years. No guarantee it was good when installed.

 

The STR has bracing behind the back seats so you can't get through that way, but worth checking the key in the lock anyway.
S Type fobs are allegedly IDS/SDD programable only.
I'd suggest a locksmith to get the door open first, the key should be fine, key and fop programing are separate.

 

Car hasn't been used all winter. I used to have the bracing behind the seats removed but put it back in 2 years ago when I tried selling the car. The key goes into the door lock all the way just fine but won't turn. It does open the trunk (which is good since that hasn't opened electronically in years)

Battery is good. I knew it was dead from sitting, so I put it on a trickle charger the day before and just put it back in this afternoon. But I can use my voltmeter to test it just to be sure.

Will do.

 

Ah, making progress. A trickle charger won't make a dent in a dead battery. There's a chemical reaction that has to take place inside the battery before it will properly take a charge. A trickle charger just doesn't have the oomph to kick start the process. You need a charger with at least a ten amp output.

Also, if that poor battery sat dead for any length of time, there's a good chance it's nothing more than a paperweight by now. Any parts store will charge and test it for you. If it fails, be aware most new batteries aren't fully charged at the time of sale. Ask to have it fully charged. If the guy behind the counter balks, tell him some guy on the internet said to do it.

 

Not familiar with STR bracing (Obviously) but from the sound of it, the seats still fold down and it is not a solid wall. IF both postulates are true, I should think you could fashion an "interior key" out of a broom handle and wire coat hanger that would do the trick, although I don't recall if actuating the rear door handle from inside will unlock that door. May be more of a challenge if you have to actuate the driver's interior door handle.

 

Did you finally get in the car

 

Another drive-by?

Maybe we should require a bond when starting a thread. Something simple, like $20 or so. Once you've come back to wrap up the discussion, you get your bond money back.

 

Good idea....now we need to find the bond holder

 

Maybe put it in escrow and have a party at the end of the year?

I expect he's cruising around now without a thought for us.

 

Heck yeah...i vote for Norri's place...bet it's beautiful there...even though i don't know where there is

 

It's not at all easy to fold them down unless done when you have good access as the cabling etc is not readily accessed, unlike with all the other S-Types.

 

The cables are just tucked away. Once you pull those out from behind the carpet molds it's easy. I forget how many bolts secure the brace behind the seats, but I posted a tutorial on it here many years ago.


Was not aware of that. Mine only does up to 6 amps. It said it was charging but by the next day it switched over to maintaining. I assumed it had restored it by that point. Oreillys charged the battery and tested, it was good. Back in the car.

No drive-by, just a busy person. Started doing brakes on my truck and it just kept leading to other things. Front-end suspension on the truck is pretty much all new now, grrr.

Unfortunately, the jag still isn't going cruising anywhere. I just want to sell it. Tired of putting money into it every 6 months, done it for over 10 years, I'm done. It's driveable but I wouldn't go more than a few blocks. (coolant leaks). Transmission only has about 20k miles on it if I had to guess, rebuilt in 2012.

 

03 str is a nice one....i understand the money pit feeling though, daughter had a car like that once...maybe if you give it a week or 2 and at least diagnose the coolant leaks if possible...i know the feeling of repairing multiple vehicles at the same time....gets overwhelming sometimes...whatever you decide, good luck and we are here to gladly help and even give you a ribbing from time to time

 

Oh I've barely driven it in years. The coolant leak I'm pretty sure is the line that runs under the supercharger. Dealership told me they have to drop the transmission to remove the supercharger to replace the line, a $4k job according to them. Doesn't make sense to me. Even if I fixed it, it'd just be something else 6 months later. I love the car, but it's been by far the least reliable thing I ever owned. My bmw has the same number of miles and it's my most reliable vehicle.

I think I'd just part the car out, but I don't have my garage built at the new house yet.

 

Wow...that hose fix doesn't make sense to me either.....when you get the car settled in for a part out, pm me would you....or better yet, list it for sale in the classifieds as a running vehicle and the known issues...post some photos....you might be surprised....if no sale then part out....good luck whatever you decide