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Low coolant due to unidentified leak, and engine systems fault.

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Old Aug 1, 2023 | 10:59 AM
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Default Low coolant due to unidentified leak, and engine systems fault.

Hello. Purchased an 06 S type from Father-in-law and have the following issues: a leak in the coolant system(slow but steady) has occurred since my ac started acting weird a few weeks ago. The drivers side blows hot while the passenger side blows cold(briefly). I’ve been adding coolant to the system frequently and thought it was just due to the high temperatures in my area until I noticed a leak that would spray upwards(not in high volumes) and was accumulating on some of the pulleys. So Friday of last week, I was working delivering orders and the car started overheating and I had loss of power. Had it towed to my house and when I got it started again(after a jump), I got messages of engine system fault, cruise not available, and parking brake fault. I checked the reservoir tank and hoses and can’t figure out where the leak is coming from but looks like it’s close to the engine. It overheats on idle, drops to 500 rpm’s and has a weird whooshing sound in the engine. Appreciate any help you can suggest.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2023 | 11:52 AM
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Welcome to the forum.

Lots to unpack in your message.

1) Do not drive the car until the overheating issue is corrected. You risk causing serious engine damage.

2) Get thee a coolant system pressure tester. It looks like a bicycle tire pump and connects to the neck of the coolant reservoir bottle. Manually pump up the cooling system to the pressure rating listed on the cap and then watch the gauge. After 15 minutes, decay should be minimal, maybe a needle width at most. If it drops faster than that, inspect everything looking for the leak(s). You mentioned coolant spraying near the pulleys, so hopefully it's not too hard to find. With the engine running at idle, pressure in the system is minimal, so you may not see much of a leak. The pressure tester stresses the system to find leaks you'd miss running at idle. Plus, it's much safer poking around without the belt and pulleys in motion

3) Don't skip steps 1 and 2.

4) Don't skip steps 1, 2, and 3.

5) Put away your jumper cables and charge that poor battery. You should never need a jump under normal conditions. Instead, figure out why you needed a jump and correct that issue. It could be as simple as the serpentine belt slick with coolant, causing the alternator pulley to slip.

6) Once you get the overheating and low battery issues resolved, you can troubleshoot your AC here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/


 
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Old Aug 1, 2023 | 01:32 PM
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What Karl said... AND, when time permits, please post the expected "intro" in the New Members forum, here:

New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 
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Old Aug 1, 2023 | 01:42 PM
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Thanks, guys! Will update once I’ve figured out the issues. I just posted intro, as well.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2023 | 09:19 AM
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Had a neighborhood mechanic stop by and look at it and he’s 98% sure my water pump is the culprit. Seems to make sense that that’s the issue and most likely will have to attempt it myself. Not able to buy a pressure tester as I’m financially in a bind at the moment.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2023 | 09:43 AM
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Whatever you do, don't put cooling system "stop leak" in the car! In terms of quality, Gates makes a part to fit your S-type 3.0 and they are a Ford OEM. Also, best to avoid parts from the Sum Ting Wong Parts Manufactory #47, commonly offered at attractive prices on eBay...
 
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Old Aug 3, 2023 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by BobbyD37
Had a neighborhood mechanic stop by and look at it and he’s 98% sure my water pump is the culprit.
You never mentioned which engine you have. If you have the V6, take a close look at the arrangement of the mounting bolts. Two variations were produced over the years. I found out the hard way that parts stores often have inaccurate listings and will gladly sell you the wrong one. I think the listings were only wrong on early V6 models, so this may not even apply to you. Here's my sob story, with pics showing the difference between the two styles. It's easy to tell them apart if you know where to look:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...3-0-v6-204901/



Originally Posted by BobbyD37
Not able to buy a pressure tester as I’m financially in a bind at the moment.
Some auto parts stores have free loaner tools. Here's the AutoZone version, for example:

https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-e...t/loan-a-tools

I realize it's tempting to think you won't need to do a pressure test, but I highly recommend doing so. It will help you find leaks you won't find any other way.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2023 | 11:21 AM
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3.0L V6 is the engine.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2023 | 11:55 AM
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Everywhere I check for the 06 3.0 water pump it shows there are only pumps with the two bolt wide bracket. Not sure if it’s only the 02 models and below that have the three wide. Don’t want to make the wrong choice.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2023 | 12:02 PM
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u
ok I can definitely see it spans only two bolts in my car
 
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Old Aug 5, 2023 | 07:00 PM
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Water pump was the culprit. My son-in-law and I changed it and now the issues are gone along with the ac issue. Running nice and cold now.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2023 | 09:46 AM
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I guess I spoke too soon. The AC started blowing warm again on the driver side, but still cool on the passenger side. when I am stopped in idling,it cools down on the driver side.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2023 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BobbyD37
I guess I spoke too soon. The AC started blowing warm again on the driver side, but still cool on the passenger side. when I am stopped in idling,it cools down on the driver side.
2 problems stacked on top of each other

bad heater valve or burned up driver in the eatc and a bad scroll control valve
 
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