I have a 2005 S-Type 3.0. It has 54k on it ( i bought it 3 years ago with 31k)- so I don not drive all over the place. I do maintenance far sooner than required and always use top of the line products. I am not concerned aboiut saving a buck here and there and would rather have quality.

One problem I keep running into and it is not hard to solve, but seems weird that I have it. I drive about 85% of the time in the basic city area of Dallas and so (other than stop or go) in the speeds of 35-50 and the rest on short trips to Fort Worth and such and will stay between 70-80.

About every 3500 miles i will get a check engine light sometimes with RP and sometimes not (before I correct) The problem is always the same a dirty MAF sensor on the side coming from the air filter. If I get a CEL and I used a scanner to get the same error codes each time before and always the same lean bank ones show. I replace the air filter every 5000 miles or so and it really is not dirty- so why does this MAF keep having the same problem. I certainly understand that a MAF will get dirty, but these intervals seem short. Is this common in this model or is it my driving habits or something else. remoavl and cleaning is a 5 minute job, but I would hate to be caught somewhere in RP and have to baby the car the around. Any ideas, thoughts or suggestions. I use the same gas all the time which is hig octane from Shell,, which I know is a top tier gas.

Tom in Dallas
2005 S-Type, 3.0 54K

 

Sounds to me you have a small leek. Allowing some crud to get on the MAF. The rest being ingested by your engine. Check the MAf sensor o-ring. And re-check all connections of the intake system. If leak is very small it may have little noticeable effect of performance.

I'd deff look into it. That or it's going bad...

 

The o-ring looks fine and once cleaned it performs normally. I just don't understand why so much on one side. Is there anything wrong with the refurbed MAF sensors that you can get from Autozone or O'riellys?


Tom

 

Hmmm, that getting rather personal..

 

Tom I am trying to foolow OP. The codes that the vehicle are what (P????), and from what I am gathering the P???? is stating bank 1 or bank 2 or both are lean?

Every 5000 miles and cleaning the MAF, sounds a bit much. For example I have the same 3.0, 2005 with just shy of 62,000 now. we live in the south with the dust and bad pollen in the spring, I hab=ve never cleaned nor replaced a Maf sensor yet (ut oh I just jinxed myself).

If the MAF is dirty it should be showing boyh banks 1 and 2 as lean not just a single bank.

Have you checked the IMT O Rings for failure/leakage? https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ck-pics-49214/

 

the code was P0174.I have been through this several times and just know what I need to do to clear. I clean the MAF and after about 2 trips and sereral starts, the code goes away. I do not know about IMT o-rings, although I saw on a posting that going to a higher weight oil could solve that problem without the work of that repair.

T

 

Your best bet will be to search and read this forum. The V-6 suffers from well know vacuum leaks and it sure sounds like that's what you got. Rubber PVC elbows, IMT O-rings, intake manifold gaskets.
With your miles and year I would just stop fighting it and start gatherings parts.

I would also consider plugs and at least inspecting the coils but if you find oil in the spark plug wells it's only a matter of time before you will have coil problems.
.
.
.

 

I appreciate that, but other than a dirty MAF, I have zero problems with anything else i the car- being it starting, misfiring ect. It will have to be a small one or otherwise these cars seem very sensitive to these leaks and from ewhat i have read will flip you into RP at the slightest. If it were IMT rings, would I not have an extremely dirty air filter as well???

Tom

 

As Rick suggested, change the IMT O-rings if yours are still the yellow-colored original ones. So many vacuum-related problems on these engines are rectified by upgrading to the new-and-improved green-colored ones. This forum has essentially proved that to be the case over the past couple of years. You can do this job yourself for less than five bucks. It's a no-brainer for the 3.0 engines, and it may very well fix your issue once and for all....

 

Please do a search on the code you listed. P0174 will yield many hits. I would also put my hand under the intake manifold where the IMT O-rings are. I would bet money you will find oil.
.
.
.

 

I recently had the same symptoms and rectified with a "new" MAF.

 

Which MAF did you get and from where and at about what cost. I am not sure that a new MAF will help as it has to do with this one getting dirty and new or old- they end up dirty if there is a reason for it.

T

 

I have already done that, however, when I take the MAF out and clean it- the CEL goes away or if I clear it with a scanner- it's gone until the next time and I have the same dirty MAF on the side from the air filter.

T

 

Tom, I see where you are coming from. If you really want to drop $80.00 on a new MAF sensor from Auto Zone then do it.

I and the "experienced" 3.0 guy DIYers are trying to say is that, we have been there and done that. Are you sure that you have the correct air filter and that you have the airbox lid secured correctly? If so then the MAF sensor should not be cleaned every 5,000 miles.

There are known issues with the P0174 and the P0171 codes, heres another link: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-52720/ in MYs 2003 and up. The "rubber elbow"does NOT pertain to your MY.

As stated by other members here trying to help you in this thread, REPLACE (very cheap) or at the very least check to see what color IMT O-Rings you have! And yet another link: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-32135/

 

Thanks for the help. Unless Napa has their part numbers incorrect and there is another air filter that was the same size as the one I originally replaced from a service at the Jag dealer (last free one) at 40K, then air filter is correct and I will check around the box and see if it tight- even though on the surface it appears to be.. I have already decided on the advice here to replace the IMT -O-rings.

Just one of these learning curve issues of dealing with something I have never done. Chris, my friend here (Blackcat2000) can assist.

Thanks again. I have a mechanical nature, but find it something that needs to be done vs. being someone that enjoys it. Your picture and directions seem simple enough. I will probably go on and replace the airbox lid as well. Any suggestions on where one can be had at a decent price?

Thanks

Tom

 

Tom,

My wife's 2005 3.0L sounds like it is living a life similar to yours, except you didn't mention running the bumper fascia up on curbs and such. Acquired 2 yrs ago with 25k-30k on the clock (I don't remember, exactly) now flirting with 60k. Typical usage/drive cycle is about a mile down the county road at 40 mph, followed by 5 mi @70 mph down US380 to Bridgeport, some stop-n-go for kid drop-off, then, in the afternoon a reverse of the whole process. Throw in about 2x per mo. 70mph runs ~35 mi to FTW followed by stop-n-go in her favorite shopping locales, and one or two road-trips/yr to N. FL (panhandle region) So similar (but more!)usage in generally same area.
I changed the IMT O-rings due to oil leakage. Much later, and seemingly unrelated, started getting occasional P0171/174 codes and RP. I searched diligently but turned up no vacuum leaks. Cleared codes with scanner and they'd return within a week...sometimes two. No visible dirt on MAF, but cleaned it anyway. No joy. Still get codes within a couple of weeks, very random and intermittent as to what kind of driving when/where they occur. (remembering too, that my information as to what was happening at time CEL popped is "as told to" by lovely and gracious....so you can imagine the fidelity of detail.) Anywho...cleaning the stuff I couldn't see with MAF cleaner did nothing for it, but swapping MAF's with my daughter's 03 worked wonders. No codes, either car, not even any wierd fuel-trims on either one after the swap. So from the experience I have made, I cannot argue against swapping MAF's but I would encourage you to find the source of your MAF-dirt and correct it - this is surely not normal. However, in theory a leak upstream of your MAF shouldn't cause lean codes as it is still measuring the air, even so it may be dirty air. FWIW...my "problem" MAF from the 05 was consistently reporting higher airflows given similar conditions than the "good" one from the 03 whether it was installed in the 05 or the 03. This made the lean-codes all the more puzzling because if the MAF is overstating airflow like a democrat touting the effects of porkulous on the economy...the ecm should be pouring on fuel like crazy....so the O2 sensors should be seeing evidence of a rich burn if anything...not a lean one. But hey! the fix was "free" with only some worry about sending "Jr" off 6 hrs to LA with a potentially bad MAF...but I did an extensive summer post-maint. check drive program on it....for me, it is ok.

 

Your situation sounds very similar to mine.
I was going to get a new MAF as well. Is there any problem with the ones here or just as good as what I would spend 5 times as much for at Jag dealer.

| O'Reilly Auto Parts


or


Mass Air Flow Sensor | 2005 Jaguar S-Type 6 Cylinders 3.0L SFI DOHC | AutoZone.com

Thanks

Tom

 

Back before Bob (Motorcarman) and a friend at work who maintains an 01 S-Type 3.0L for his wife persuaded me to "just swap 'em...if it works on both..tha's what I'd do!" and I still thought I needed to buy one...I would've gone with the AutoZone Duralast "New" to avoid hefty core charge vs. O'Reilly or Rock Auto b/c I wasn't absolutely sure my MAF was "bad" only problematic. I wanted to be able to put it back in the rotation if codes continued under the "new" one till I sorted what the true issue is/was. For now...my story is that the 05 car's control system components are tolerance-stacked to the point that it's MAF is a no-go. For the 03, it is ok. And I'm sticking to it....

I'm not "anti-dealer-parts" and have been treated well by the parts-desk at Autobahn in FTW. However, if the price-delta is 5X, I'll either go aftermarket or wrecker yard. (Hint - if your alternator goes...have it renewed by a good elec. shop or go junkyarding) I put an Autozone on the 03 and "precious" had to live with a constant "Batt" light for over a year til I got round to a FTW junkyard this summer. I changed from failed OEM to AutoZone before I found Bob or this forum. OUch!!! IIRC, it was ~$650 vs $115 - lesser still for the wrecking yard version....$75-100? or about 5x in rough figures!

 

I'd go with what has worked for other 3.0s. But first I'd check fuel trims on each bank at idle and at 2500rpm (search and see my previous posts about this and what you're checking for). Invaluable data on whether it could be a leak or not.

If you're near enough to one of the techs on here, seriously consider going to them as they'll likely figure it out quickly.

 

Thanks for the info, however your link lead to the outer reaches of the universe. Could you try sending again.

TBB