Good morning, 05 s jag 4.2 94000 miles. A week ago chk engine light code 1000. About a week later p0300 301 303 305 1316 1000. Checked battery 12.2v took it to autozone for testing they said only able to charge 65%. Bought new agm battery. Started car engine light still on. Symptoms slight roughness when first started ( before new battery symptoms) smooths out quickly a appears to ride nice with plenty of power. When new battery was installed first start was smooth no feeling of misfire, just to be clear with old battery misfire was hard to notice ie no real shaking or near conning out. I'm going to clear chk engine light now that new battery is in so I will update in a day or so. Any recommendations appreciated. Original plugs and coils . new fuel pumps and filter last year. Not very mechanically inclined but broke covid killed my business. Tia

 

Are you mechanically inclined enough to change a coil-pack? There is the possibility that misfires from one bad coil-pack are inducing sympathetic misfires being reported on the others. Given that the reported misfires are on one bank, in a pinch you can buy one coil and install it on cylinder 1, check to see if this cures the miss and if not, move the new part back to cylinder 3, and as Karl Says "rinse, wash, repeat"...

No matter how tempting it may be, do not (repeat, do not) get bargain coil-packs on-line from that famous auction site. Get OEM quality parts, e.g. Denso, NGK, Delphi, etc.

 

Yes I can change coils and do plugs. But I can't tear 8ntp engines or read and understand fuel trims and thongs like that. I more confident with my 07 tacoma mechanically. Much appreciated for the reply. Will get good quality parts with whatever I change. Right now I'm just trying to get a game plan. Tia

 

Well plugs are good for 100K miles and your pretty close now. I think a plug change is in order?
Oops I am confused? You said 94K miles but your signature says 68K miles?
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Cleared chk eng light and drove slowly around neighborhood. How long before light comes back on assuming I get no miracle with new battery. Am I doing damage driving lightly around neighborhood. Should I be able to feel these misfires tia

 

Don't expect to feel misfires. If you can, do not drive at all.

If you ignore them for long you can expect to need one or both cats.

 

That mileage must have been years ago maybe When I first joined. The major repairs that havebeendone are fuel pumps and airconditon. System. I'm going to do the plugs and buy a few ing coils. What bothers me is that multible plugs and coils on one bank doesn't seem likely. Something upstream or downstream seems more likely. I'm afraid that after plugs and coils I'll be beyond my abilities.

 

Check fuel trims in case an air leak, and see which OBD monitors are unhappy now you've cleared them (I suggest never do that without a true fix).

Also make sure you've charged the battery fully - and AGM may be a problem as they're for cars with different charging systems. For now just be sure you've charged it fully yourself.

 

Autozone specified this battery. I'll have to take it back. What battery do you rec. Tia

 

How much do you think they actually know about S-Types...

 

"Bought new agm battery."

AGM batteries are not suitable for the S-type; the charging system is designed for a "flooded" battary and does not put out adequate voltage for a long enough period to time to keep an AGM battery in proper charge. I suspect the parts-man thought "Jaguar owner... I'll sell him the most expensive battery in the place..."

Also, "misfire" codes are generated when the ECU (via sensors) detects that a given cylinder is firing with less energy than the adjacent cylinders; it is not detecting the electronics contained in the coil-pack directly. Misfire coded can also be triggered by faulty injectors, low compression, etc...

 

Here is the official Jaguar list of codes. Follow this, NOT what any scanner says for a particular code:

http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa..._OBD_II_R2.pdf

Has your check engine light been flashing? P1316 is the worrisome code. This code only appears in conjunction with a misfire code, and means the misfire problem is severe enough to cause catalyst damage. The check engine light will typically flash to get your attention. Do NOT drive the car like this, or you risk melting a converter, an expensive proposition. Generally, when you clear the root cause of the misfire, code P1316 will also clear.

While on the subject, time for me to get on MisfireSoapbox(tm). Here's some nice dramatic music to play in the background while I pontificate:


If the computer has set a misfire code, please be aware "misfire" wasn't the best terminology that could have been used. Misfire sounds like an ignition problem, at least to me, meaning the fuel and compression were there, but for whatever reason, the required spark was missing or weak. This might lead a good-looking aspiring mechanic to troubleshoot the daylights out of a perfectly good ignition system. I do not care to discuss how I know this.

In OBD-speak, misfire simply means one or more cylinders is putting out low power compared to the others. Pretty much anything affecting the output of a cylinder can set a misfire code. It can be low compression. It can be a valve not opening fully. It could be a bad fuel injector. And yes, it could be an ignition problem, too, but don't overlook the other possibilities, too. [/soapbox mode off]

 

Engine light was not flashing. I can't even get the battery right so I called a local jag specialist and am dropping the car off tomorrow. I'll take battery back after repair if I can afford it. Doing this for my wife the last 2 years have been horrible for her. Lost her niece 48 year old to covid was like her child. Detached retina a year ago and got little sight back. My wife loves the car and even though I hardly ever drive it it does drive beautiful with more power than any car I ever had. I'm blue collar truck guy in my 60's and disabled. Never would have been able to afford a car like this. My wife won it at a casino. Tried to convince her to sell and take the money and use half to fix house and then a Camry or something like that. Happy wife happy life so I said keep it but inside knew repairs were going to be expensive. I don't think my local mechanic likes working on this car so decided to see if there were any local jag specialist near me. Called the guy and he seems to know these cars well said he had an idea of what it could be and is going to diagnose and give me an estimate. If I can swing it I'll do it for my wife I need to see her smile again. I know you guys like to see people fix these things themselves and I can respect that. I've always been more confident with my tacoma the jag intimidated me. I'll keep you informed when I know because I hate when there's no conclusion to a problem it does nobody any good. Thanks much for the replys

 

If you are seeing all your codes come from one bank. I would look for something common to all four cylinders on that bank. Like a common ground
wire. I would think about checking your compression leek down test. You may be seeing an early symptom of a failing head gasket. Minuscule amounts of
coolant, seeping into the combustion chambers.

 

Any updates? The suspense is killing us. I'm like the fisherman who started eating worms in between catches. You could say I'm waiting with bated breath...

FWIW, these cars are not that difficult to work on. The electronics can scare away some mechanics, but what's onboard is mostly standard stuff, no more complicated than other brands of that era. Since Ford owned Jaguar at the time, much of the technology was carried over. If not doing the work yourself, an independent Jaguar specialist is probably the best option, as they are familiar with the quirks but don't charge dealer prices. Keep us posted.

 

Mechanic just called. Does not see any misfires fuel trims looked great plugs looked good. He found a connection on air box undone . I asked if on his scanner did he see any misfire counts he saw none. The connection on air box was not the maf. When I pick up car today I'll find out where this connection is. I asked about the arm battery he didn't seem concerned but I'm going to listen to you guys a get a lead acid. Charged me 100.00 dollars. Hoping it holds a misfires don't come back. I feel comfortable with this mechanic. He's in Levittown PA jaguar specialist is the name I think. I asked about other services such as trans fluid and rear diff. Any comments about that appreciated. Thanks to all and cant wait to see my wife's smile again.

 

A collar looking connection about 3 inches from mad was loose enough to spin so he tighten that up and that's all he did. He said the car rise real nice. Fingers are crossed those misfires don't come back. Thanks everyone.

 

I think the battery change may have been the answer only because I drove the car around my neighborhood real slow and then let it idle for a while and no check engine light. Trying to be cautious based on some e comments from the board about catalytic possible damage I decided to have car towed to mechanic. I asked mechanic how long would it take for codes to appear and he said pretty quickly. I had no codes only a pending p1000 before going to mechanic. Wife drove car back about 15 highway miles and she said car ran great. I'm optimistic but anxious if she's really fixed only time will tell. Thanks guys

 

If the mechanic found even a small air leak that's great! Modern cars are very good at coping but misfires can result.