Hey and thanks for everyone taking the time to try and help me out. I have an '05 S Type 3.0L V6 with 72k miles on it. The day after I got it (with 45k miles on it), about 6 different error codes came up and I couldn't even get the car to start. After multiple trips to the dealership, they found that wires were being pinched behind the wheel well and replaced everything and crisis averted. I also had an entirely new park brake motor installed. With no major problems for about a year now since then, all the sudden these 3 issues popped up during the same week:

-I got the Front RH Indicator Failure message on my dash. I changed the bulb and everything and as I have read in other posts on this forum, it is more than that and probably related to the bulb socket. I have seen part #'s listed on a couple of the threads, but a couple of the sites specifically say that those sockets aren't compatible with the HID headlights. I have the HID headlights and the dealer says I need a whole new headlight (shocker), so I was hoping someone might have a part number or any tips for the HID headlights?

-My keyless entry stopped working for the most part. I changed the battery in the remote and the problem still exists. The weird thing is, if I try and lock the car with the remote soon after I drive the car and park it, it will work fine. I can lock it, unlock it, open the trunk, etc just fine. If I lock it and come back a couple of hours later though, the remote won't work at all and the alarm goes up after I manually unlock the door until I put the key in the ignition. Since the remote works fine 100% of the time right after I drive the car, it seems like it has got to be something besides just a bad connection within the remote or something. The dealer of course tells me I need to buy a new remote and pay the fee to have it programmed (shocker).

-Out of the blue this evening, I went to park my car and I got the "cannot apply parkbrake" error on my dashboard. It might be worth mentioning that I got new brake pads and tires installed a few days ago, but there was no error message until now. I got a new motor and the whole thing serviced less than a year ago now for a $900 or so repair job and it is just crazy to think something could actually be wrong with it again already.

This past week I had to get a new set of tires after my back rear tire basically exploded and shred to pieces on the interstate. Just driving 1/4 mile or so to get off the road after I felt the bump caused a couple of the wheel studs to become bent though. Because nothing was made simple with Jaguar, I had to purchase a whole new hub assembly ($300) as opposed to just a couple of wheel studs like most cars ($20). I ended up spending $1700 on new tires, brake pads, and then this unexpected hub assembly that was required after I got it towed to the shop. If someone can help out with any of these problems I would greatly appreciate it. I really can't afford another $1200+ repair bill at the moment from Jaguar for these problems that should be minor. I've got to get my car inspected this month and the lack of a turn signal in the front is a real problem.


Thanks again for anyone taking the time to read this and try to help out!

 

Sounds like your battery needs attention. Get a hygrometer from most any auto part store and check each cell. Sounds like one or more is weak which can cause problems.
Good luck..

 

Thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention in my previous post that when all the initial problems happened, some thought it was a battery issue too. I had a new battery put in, which didn't solve the problem, but with a new battery less than a year ago I would hope that wouldn't be the issue. I will definitely check that out though as at this point not much would surprise me.

 

Yeah, Jay's got a good point, I've seen that many issues that all pop up at the same time (for things that seemingly were working) could be due to the battery. Low battery levels or just a battery on the fritz can cause a lot of different codes to pop up.

Yeah, get your battery checked out. If there seemed to be something bad with it and you get it replaced there, make sure you have them connect their code reader to your car and reset your codes for you. Jaguars are supposed to lose their codes after 10-20 minutes of not having a battery connected, but have them do it anyways if your there and still see error codes being displayed.

If it's not the battery, then come back and maybe others can help you. JbB

 

Realise that testing a battery is now hard because you need to test for spikes & sags of voltage, not starting current.

Hope it's not more wiring going bad...

 

Interesting. So if there was something wrong with a battery that was causing issues with a car like an S-Type, a "free battery check" by a parts store may not be able to detect it?

 

Most owners seem to neglect checking the water level in their battery cells on a regular basis. Do that, add water as needed, and your battery will probably last considerably longer. Both of our Jaguars were built in May 2005 and they continue to run just fine on their factory batteries. I check their cells regularly, at least every couple of months and more often than that during the hot summers here. I believe that is the primary reason why our original Jaguar batteries have lasted this long....

 

Thanks for the responses so far.

I got the battery checked out at a show where my friend works, and him and one of the techs ran a bunch of tests and determined that the battery was just fine. Also, I do not have the original factory battery anymore, I have an aftermarket duralast maintenance free battery replaced about 8 months ago or so brand new.

After disconnecting the battery, I did the park brake calibration procedure, which they had forgotten to do after replacing the brake pads. This fixed the issue with the park brake.

What is left to figure out is the right hand turn signal failure, and the strange problem with my keyless entry system not working after the car has been turned off for a couple of hours.

Does anyone have a part # for the bulb holder for the right hand turn signal for an '05 S Type V6 3.0L with the HID self-leveling headlights?

Also, any insight as to what to check now for the keyless entry problem (fuses, wiring, etc.) would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Probably for any modern car. They're stuffed with computers and those need stable voltages with no sags, spikes etc. Amps are what you traditionally test, which are irrelevant for the computers. Testing the voltage when under suddenly switched loads (such as trying to start) needs a device which simply isn't owned by almost anywhere outside of electronics labs.

I really wish this was in the FAQs!!