When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Aside from the annoying tranny LURCH I am loving my 2003 STR. I've never owned anything this nice or this powerful. I am the second owner. It has 120k miles on it and has been well cared for by the original owner. There are a few issues other than the LURCH (plan to try the reboot method and follow steps tomorrow) that I could use some advice on.
1. Dead stop take off is hindered very badly with/without Trac control on and/or sport mode.
2. Headlights droop. Went to do the screw method but it's already been done yet low beams still shine only 15ft on the ground.
3. Small Coolant leak somewhere around the resivior. I think it's the small hose on the top left.
4. Key fob controls don't work, have to use the key in the door to lock/unlock.
Last edited by Jason Souhrada; 01-10-2016 at 08:18 PM.
Reason: Wrong model
Not sure what you mean by hindered? Does the car not accelerate properly?
The 2003 STR is known for short shifting which really limits it's performance. Do you get to 6100 RPM before it shifts? Or does it shift at 5600-5800 RPM?
I would get the codes read and cleared too.
Has the under super charger hose been changed? It's a big job and pretty much ALL STR's will face this sooner or later. But my 2005 STR did last until 119K miles.
.
.
.
Not sure what you mean by hindered? Does the car not accelerate properly?
The 2003 STR is known for short shifting which really limits it's performance. Do you get to 6100 RPM before it shifts? Or does it shift at 5600-5800 RPM?
I would get the codes read and cleared too.
Has the under super charger hose been changed? It's a big job and pretty much ALL STR's will face this sooner or later. But my 2005 STR did last until 119K miles.
.
.
.
The dealer is going to fax me all of the service records they have on file for my car. The key fob I found out today, is working but for some reason the car is not receiving the signal. The guy tested it with his machine and his machine picked up the signal from the key fob on all the buttons but the car will not receive any signal. Any idea what this may be? I found out also that I need a new coolant resivior.
Can't help on the remote. But are you sure the keys/fobs have been paired to the car? Might be worth it to redo that before taking it in. Another reason to get the JTIS so you can read and perform that yourself. You will need 2 keys.
If you need a coolant reservoir I would check that the DCCV has been changed since you are right there and will need to drain the coolant anyway. Be aware that the STR has about 22 rubber hoses. I have now replaced them all. At this late date all the rubber is very old so plan for some quality hose changing time in the future!
I find it's better to bunch my repairs to avoid going back into the same area again and again.
But don't forget the under SC hose! That is a SOB.
Oh? Do you mind saying what you paid for it? We always have arguments on what the STR's are currently worth.
.
.
.
Can't help on the remote. But are you sure the keys/fobs have been paired to the car? Might be worth it to redo that before taking it in. Another reason to get the JTIS so you can read and perform that yourself. You will need 2 keys.
If you need a coolant reservoir I would check that the DCCV has been changed since you are right there and will need to drain the coolant anyway. Be aware that the STR has about 22 rubber hoses. I have now replaced them all. At this late date all the rubber is very old so plan for some quality hose changing time in the future!
I find it's better to bunch my repairs to avoid going back into the same area again and again.
But don't forget the under SC hose! That is a SOB.
Oh? Do you mind saying what you paid for it? We always have arguments on what the STR's are currently worth.
.
.
.
It's the Dual Climate Control Valve for the his and her's heater settings. They are failure prone and there has been much talk about them over the years.
================================================
Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
Current Hers: '13 Lexus ES350
Current Mine: '08 S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition" (250.06 whp / 259.67 torque)
Past Ours: '05 X-Type 3.0/auto Jaguar Racing Green
It's the Dual Climate Control Valve for the his and her's heater settings. They are failure prone and there has been much talk about them over the years.
================================================
Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
Current Hers: '13 Lexus ES350
Current Mine: '08 S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition" (250.06 whp / 259.67 torque)
Past Ours: '05 X-Type 3.0/auto Jaguar Racing Green
Not sure what you mean by hindered? Does the car not accelerate properly?
The 2003 STR is known for short shifting which really limits it's performance. Do you get to 6100 RPM before it shifts? Or does it shift at 5600-5800 RPM?
I would get the codes read and cleared too.
Has the under super charger hose been changed? It's a big job and pretty much ALL STR's will face this sooner or later. But my 2005 STR did last until 119K miles.
.
.
.
I disconected the negative battery cable for 10 minutes. I've only put 15 miles on it since then but the LURCH and surge have seemed to go away. For now.
I disconected the negative battery cable for 10 minutes. I've only put 15 miles on it since then but the LURCH and surge have seemed to go away. For now.
Waste of time as you'll soon find out. Not sure where or why the disconnect the battery myth started.
I disconected the negative battery cable for 10 minutes. I've only put 15 miles on it since then but the LURCH and surge have seemed to go away. For now.
You've done nothing to the trans or TCM.
All you've done is clear the PCM's volatile memory (which only has fuel knowledge-type stuff) so it's relearning.
Expect lurch etc as before once it finishes OR a fault OR you have a fault and PCM may turn out to be unable to relearn fully and may even be unable to flag the fault. Good luck
FWIW - was told that the key fobs will "lose" their programming if not used at least once a year or so - that by dealer. when I bought my 04 STR last year one worked, one didn't. dealer reprogrammed the one that wasn't working so that was a much better fix than buying new..........
From time to time one or the other of our two S-Type key fobs will decide to quit functioning. If the fob's battery is still good (and it almost always is), what I have to do is use the other fob while holding the uncooperative fob right next to it in my other hand. This usually wakes up the uncooperative fob and we're back in business with both of them functioning for six months or so before I have to repeat the process....
We've never had this problem with our two XK8 key fobs in nearly four years of ownership. Both the S-Type and the XK8 were built in May 2005 and to my knowledge, all of our fobs are factory originals. The XK8 fobs are very different, much smaller, thinner, and probably more durable....
The factory parts manual is called the JEPC (Jaguar Electronic Parts Catalog) This is what your parts counter guy is looking at when you go to the dealer to order parts. Now our copy does not get updates over the internet so by now it does have some errors but I have found any help you can give the parts guy really speeds up the process and helps get the current right part number.
I don't see it posted yet but as a new owner remember Jaguar does things a bit different. The last 6 digits of your VIN is key to getting the right parts. Many running changes were made. So be sure and have that before you order parts.
.
.
.
All you've done is clear the PCM's volatile memory (which only has fuel knowledge-type stuff) so it's relearning.
Expect lurch etc as before once it finishes OR a fault OR you have a fault and PCM may turn out to be unable to relearn fully and may even be unable to flag the fault. Good luck
Yep, I found the same on my VDP to be true. Did the 2003 have the 6HP26 gearbox? If so I'd be thinking worn out fluid or a possible leak from the pan or the flexible section of the cooler lines. Low or worn out fluid can cause the lurch to happen and at the current mileage I'd recommend a service.
From time to time one or the other of our two S-Type key fobs will decide to quit functioning. If the fob's battery is still good (and it almost always is), what I have to do is use the other fob while holding the uncooperative fob right next to it in my other hand. This usually wakes up the uncooperative fob and we're back in business with both of them functioning for six months or so before I have to repeat the process....
We've never had this problem with our two XK8 key fobs in nearly four years of ownership. Both the S-Type and the XK8 were built in May 2005 and to my knowledge, all of our fobs are factory originals. The XK8 fobs are very different, much smaller, thinner, and probably more durable....
Mechanic said he will have to get another key. So he was wrong, he CANNOT program it with just 1.
01-10-2016, 06:48 PM
My new (to me) STR!
1 2) 