This is my first post as a new member, please be patient with me.

I Just purchased a 2005 S Type with a 4.2L. The Car has been sitting unused for a few years. Of course the battery drained completely.

I installed a new battery and the car started almost instantly.

The car would only go to about 1500 rpms until warmed up and then up to 2100 rpms. Drives very nice, but at 10 mph, not very exciting.

I ran a OBD2 code reader and come up with two codes : P2135 and P1000. Also the dash was scrolling "engine system fault" , "DSC not available", and "Parking brake fault". Note: The Parking brake sets and releases just fine.

I've read much about the TPS failing, but it doesn't seem like it would go bad just sitting and not being used. The Vehicle was driven and parked. All was working well when parked.

I understand there is a way to check the collation between TP1 and TP2 (I believe that is the correct term).

Thank you all in advance for your assistance.

 

Welcome to the forum. A few thoughts, in no particular order:

Charge that poor battery. Even though new, batteries typically aren't fully charged at the time of sale. This is a very important step, so please don't skip it.

Don't worry about P1000. It just means the engine hasn't run long enough to complete certain diagnostic monitors. Once that happens, usually after several drive cycles, the code changes to P1111. Any S-Type will have one of those codes (but not both) at all times.

Take a look at this thread for a similar problem with P2135:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...solved-227450/

For deciphering any OBD code, be sure to use Jaguar's official definition here:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Many code readers and scanners will give potentially misleading generic definitions. The official Jaguar definitions are the way to go.

 

While your battery is charging, please stop by the New Members forum and post the expected "introduction"; it can be found here and will give you more forum privileges:

New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Had a spare moment to look at the OBD code list I linked in my previous message. The list didn't include P2135, unfortunately.

However, take a look at the workshop manual, near the bottom of that same page. Direct link here:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...M-Workshop.pdf

Do a control-F search for P2135 and you will get 4 hits. You will see codes with 7 digits, all starting with the 5 digit P2135. The last 2 digits provide more info, above what what was required for OBD codes. Most scanners can't read them, but if you have P2135 you know it's one of those four hits. For all of them, the corrective action is the same:

"Check connections, etc, clear the DTCs and retest. If the code resets, replace the APP sensor."

I'd say in the worst case scenario, you may be looking at a new pedal assembly. I'm sure you could find a serviceable replacement on eBay or similar. But I'd still concentrate on low voltage. Be sure to read the previous message with a link to a resolved thread, caused by a bad relay. Post #27 in that thread includes details of how to test the suspect relay in minutes, using a voltmeter at the fuse panel.

 

But first do make sure whether the specific car has P2135 for the TPS or the APP!

Unusually for Jaguar, I gather it changed depending on the MY (or VIN).

 

Thank you all for the suggestions. I did charge the battery fully, 2 times, so I can rule that out for now.

I will clean and check the connectors, fuses, and perform the other suggestions and I'll report back in a few days.

Thank you all again.

 

You may have two active faults. For the last two, take a look here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...attery-193787/

Glad to hear you've been charging the battery. Be sure to keep it topped off, as low prestart voltage is known to cause all sorts of grief, especially with the last two messages.

 

As promised, this is my follow up post.

I have checked, cleaned, and put dielectric grease on all the connections, although none were corroded or damaged.

I also removed and cleaned the throttle body . . . (the local auto stores are unable to get the FelPro gasket #61376) waiting for my Amazon delivery to install it.

Concerning the battery voltage suggested by Karl (kr98664), I did check it static and running. Static it was 12.5v and with the engine running it was 13.4v. I understand the article said the magic number static was 12.6v. Whereas I have 3 other vehicle's (two with new batteries) I checked them too. All were 12.5v fully charged. If it needs to be 12.6v, I'll need to go Costco and check batteries until I find one with a voltage of 12.6v.

Many thanks to all of you whom have dealt with this problem before and are willing to share your expertise. More to follow . . . Thank you.

 

12.5 is plausible but 13.4 sounds low... is it higher for a shortish time when you start the car from cold? (Measure at the battery.)

 

Opp's, my mistake 14.3v. Getting numbers transposed is a common middle age mistake.

 

Most likely, your static measurement is skewed downward slightly by normal electrical loads, such as the trunk light and any computer modules that "wake up" when you unlock the car. It does create a bit of a tricky scenario to get an accurate voltage reading before starting.

One way around this is to leave the battery charger connected while you start the engine, and then disconnect it. See if that makes any difference.

Another option: Reduce prestart electrical loads, such as shutting off the auto headlights, and see if that helps. When you get the message right after start, stay in Park, reduce electrical loads as much as possible, and rev the engine around 2000 RPM for a couple of minutes. The idea is to give the charging system a chance to replenish the battery, even if only a little bit. Then turn off the engine and immediately restart. If either trick helped, you're probably looking at low prestart voltage, which will help determine how to continue troubleshooting.

 

Amazon came through . . . mostly. I received the correct gasket. I also ordered a new TP sensor. Although I ordered a 198000-3300, a 198000-3250 came. Without checking it out closely, I installed it. The rpms went from the high of 1700 up to 2500, an improvement, but not fixed.

The P2135 code cleared, but a new one came up, P0222 low voltage. I'm guessing it has to do with the wrong part. I did reinstalled the old TPS and the P2135 came back.

A new TPS is on order again, so I wait.

I really appreciate the input of many, as I learn about my First Jaguar.

 

My correct TPS came in today. Before I install it I'd apricate input.

Is there a correct way to replace a TPS?

I have read on the Jaguar Forum many things and I tried them on the One (wrong Part #) after my first start, but no change.

I've read, "TURN THE KEY ON FOR THREE MINUTES", or "PRESS THE PEDAL THREE TIMES SLOWLY", and other suggestions. Is there something I should do special or just change the part and hope for the best?

Thank you all for your guidance.

 

Yes.

Any more questions?

Or were you asking more along the lines of "What is the correct way to replace a TPS?" That's a bit more complex question...

The answer? Heck if I know. Is the new sensor keyed so it can only be installed one way? Are the bolt holes elongated, implying a physical adjustment is required? Any details in the service manual?:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...M-Workshop.pdf

Working from my phone, so am unable to open the massive PDF.

This link (from the stickies) has some details of a calibration procedure, but I'm not sure if it's applicable:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ection-176446/
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I've checked or done all the things suggested, but no fixes. I'm closing this thread and will be starting a new one . . . "Stumped".

Thank you.