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Need a MAF sensor

Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:14 AM
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Default Need a MAF sensor

Going to replace the 122k mile MAF sensor. Local "Big A" auto parts store doesn't stock nor can order it. Suggestions on where to buy and how much?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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Ouch!!!! RockAuto Parts Catalog
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 02:11 PM
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Thanks Rick. Prior to posting I checked Rock Auto. They sell em for $104 with a $70 core charge. Likely gunna go for it unless someone posts they know better?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 03:00 PM
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P/N?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 03:07 PM
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Rock Auto's MAF part #: 74-50078 Sells for: $104.89 + $70 (core) = $174.89 + $11.46 (shipping) = $186.35
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 03:55 PM
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Not too bad for a maf. Was your maf bad or just preventive?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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Auto Parts Express I save you $6 whole dollars...lol
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 04:53 PM
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Mike, likely bad MAF. Has 122k miles on it. She's been surging for a while, then CEL with "Restricted Performance" message, code # P0171 (bank one lean). Bacardi, thanks for the $6 savings, but already ordered from Rock Auto...would have spent it on McDonalds anyway.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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Installed MAF (Rock Auto $104) and hard re-set...CEL remains. I can definitely hear a passenger side pre-cat exhaust leak. She has a date with the exhaust guy...not now, but next Thursday, cause one of their main exhaust guys is doing three weeks court ordered rehab for getting dunk then trying to choke his girlfriend's 16 y.o. daughter. Schmuk. In the meantime I'll clean then re-oil the K&N.
 

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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 04:44 PM
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Default Problem solved?

Shortly after the previous post I took her out for a ride with CEL on to see if the new MAF sensor cured the surging...she didn't surge. So during a brain storm (happens once in a while)...Why in the past would the CEL go out when hard re-setting, but not this time? Is the CEL remaining on after the new MAF sensor install due to the codes needing a code scanner/re-set tool to clear the codes? So off I went to the mechanic to clear the codes and see what happens. To my surprise: Bank 1 and Bank 2 lean. Nearly two weeks ago just Bank 1 lean (P0171)? Regardless, the mechanic cleared the codes and...Whala! No more CEL. She operated normally the return trip. Hopefully the new MAF sensor was the cure. By the way, installing a MAF sensor has to be the easiest sensor to install...two screws out, pull out old sensor, put in new sensor, screw in two screws. I'll keep yas posted.
 

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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 06:12 PM
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Hi guys, I know this is an old thread but I am experiencing the exact thing/codes on my '07 STR. Shop said the K&N panel filter may have thrown oil on the MAF sensor triggering the code.

Removed K&N, replaced it w/stock, cleaned the MAF sensor and reset the codes w/my Innova 3100, but no luck.

Replaced the MAF sensor and now car is having difficulty accelerating, it runs at about 1K RPM higher than normal and light came back on. Ordered another MAF sensor and experienced the same thing. Replaced new sensors w/old one that originated the codes and the car runs a-ok, but CEL is back and w/poorer fuel efficiency (about 50mi less).

Maybe I am resetting things incorrectly on the new sensors, but please share any suggestions. Thank you all so much!
 
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 05:11 AM
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Is the stock air filter cover fitted properly? Many members here had thought the lid was installed correctly, but it wasn't.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 06:56 AM
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+1 (they're tough to fit properly but must be 100% right and with the filter not kinked)

If it's not that, look at fuel trims at idle and 2500rpm (in P or N) to see whether you have an air leak (likely).
 
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 07:04 AM
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Hi Rick and thanks for the reply. Installed correctly and with the correctly sized panel filter. Experienced the wrong size from O'Reilly Auto when I first ordered the filter and they have since updated their database...the one they sold me was a good 1.5" longer. One was thinner and longer, ours was shorter and thicker. The K&N is shorter and thinner for what it's worth.

I am trying some troubleshooting (vacuum hoses) this morning, but I am still at a loss.

Much appreciated and please let me know if you think of more tips!
 
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 07:53 AM
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If the trims don't show a leak then save time and check other things

Post the LTFTs if you want comments.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 10:50 AM
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Thanks and will do. And why is the air box so challenging to close (lower tabs barely connect), even w/o a filter just to test fit and make sure? Just call me curious...
 
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 11:49 AM
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hmm, mine was easy to close w/o filter but drove me semi-nuts with the filter in. It's a really good air-tight fit.... once you get the **** thing shut!

I have LTFT of 3 & 0 on the 2 banks at idle
 
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 11:56 PM
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LTFT @ 16.1 per bank and STFT @ -26.6 per bank.

I cleared the codes, rotated the air filter 180 degrees and reclosed the airbox and confirmed it is perfectly closed. Re-installed the OEM MAF sensor and hit the road for 30 minutes. No codes and knocking on wood.

Thanks so much for your help and patience and I will keep an eye out for a recurrence.

As an aside, if anyone is interested in a new MAF sensor or K&N panel filter, I know a guy who can offer a sweet deal!
 
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Old Aug 24, 2012 | 01:50 AM
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Still LTFT 16? That's high. Check after a couple more drives, in case it's still relearning and improving.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2012 | 10:49 AM
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My air box on car was a pain to close with no filter. I learned that the easiest way to close air box properly is removing the intake tube helps a lot. Box closes very easy afterwards.
 
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