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Needed for Valve Cover Gasket Job???

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Old Dec 21, 2023 | 10:14 AM
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Default Needed for Valve Cover Gasket Job???

What do I actually need in the way of gaskets and bolts? I know there are some rubber on some for the bolts and I bevel that according to Jag they said I should replace all the bolts and valve stem seals. I also I will need gaskets for the intake.

I just need to know what I need exactly for the job.

I have ordered:
Intake Plenum Gaskets
Valve Cover Gaskets (FEL-PRO)
Spark Plug / Ignition Coil Boot
Valve Stem Seal

Do I need Intake Manifold gaskets and what else?

Thanks

Tom in Dallas
2005 3.0 S-Type
 

Last edited by jazzwineman; Dec 21, 2023 at 10:30 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2023 | 03:39 PM
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The upper and lower inlet manifold gaskets/seals should be replaced together to avoid having a lean mixture. The gaskets/seals are VIN specific.

Replace the spark plug boss seal with the cam cover seal. To seal the area where the cam cover gaskets go over the timing cover, put around a 3mm dab of RTV. Do not use any kind of sealer on the rest of the cam cover gaskets or spark plug boss seals. Personally, I have not had success using aftermarket cam cover gaskets as they seem to leak prematurely.

If 'valve stem seal' refers to the breather seal on the cam cover, replace those as well. The breather pipes are often brittle with age and are easily broken when removed.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2023 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by NBCat
The upper and lower inlet manifold gaskets/seals should be replaced together to avoid having a lean mixture. The gaskets/seals are VIN specific.

Replace the spark plug boss seal with the cam cover seal. To seal the area where the cam cover gaskets go over the timing cover, put around a 3mm dab of RTV. Do not use any kind of sealer on the rest of the cam cover gaskets or spark plug boss seals. Personally, I have not had success using aftermarket cam cover gaskets as they seem to leak prematurely.

If 'valve stem seal' refers to the breather seal on the cam cover, replace those as well. The breather pipes are often brittle with age and are easily broken when removed.

These are what is called by Rock as "valve stem seals" . I assume we are talking about the same thing?

Thanks

Tom in Dallas
 
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Old Dec 21, 2023 | 05:41 PM
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No, I'm referring to item 4 in the image below:



 
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Old Dec 21, 2023 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzwineman
These are what is called by Rock as "valve stem seals" . I assume we are talking about the same thing?

Thanks

Tom in Dallas
Unless you plan on removing the valve springs, these valve stem seals are not needed as part of replacing the cam cover gaskets and spark plug boss seals.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2023 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by NBCat
No, I'm referring to item 4 in the image below:


Just color me completely stupid I guess. Is #4 one part or multiple parts? Where does it fit? i have these bolts around the outside of the cam cover that look like they have rubber on them and the wiring harness is attached to them.( I assume they are #7 and #8) What are those? Do I need to replace them?. I intend to take this to a European shop to do the job, but do not want to merely depend and trust them without knowing something..Further I do not want to pay extra for parts to profit the shop. This is all quite frustrating for me, although I know your help is very sincere and useful.

Tom
 

Last edited by jazzwineman; Dec 22, 2023 at 12:04 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2023 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by NBCat
No, I'm referring to item 4 in the image below:


Is this what you are talking about? https://www.ebay.com/itm/20437555734...AAAOSwPvZklXyS
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 07:08 AM
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Hey Tom, I have used the FelPro aftermarket valve, spark plug, rubber bolt seals in many V6 S Types, well documented here without any issues.

Felpro supplies all the above mentioned seals. The thingies picture above go into the rubber bolt seals. I would definitely replace the 6 upper and 6 lower intake seals/gaskets. Also sold separately are the 2 VVT seals, each valve cover has a seal on top/front. Have you replaced the IMT o-rings yet, now would be a good time as well.

Remember Aholbro (Zane) has a write up if you find the the magnesium coil holes have rotted away.

Its not a bad job, take your time, you'll be fine. I think I have write ups w/pictures in the how to do board.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 08:33 AM
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I "think" item 4 is AJ82677. Requires one per cover (Total of 2)? Should be the VVT seals. This is a bit odd as the JEPC shows the item but does NOT break it out separately. Item 4 has no part number listing? Apparently it only comes with the entire #1 assembly that includes the actual cover as well? I can only image what that would cost!
The cam covers have some variations over time and that's confusing the issue?




Now I did find a better diagram and it does identify #4 as AJ82577.




It's item #9 in the above diagram. It installs in the red circle. I am sure you know this but that seal can be replaced with OUT removing the cam cover. I know your doing a bigger job and will take the covers off.
Note there should be a Ford part number too as this was used on the Lincoln LS. I can't cross it over but I know there is one!

I don't have anything to look at and I am weak on the 6 cylinders since I have only owned and worked on the SC V-8's.
.
.
.
 

Last edited by clubairth1; Dec 22, 2023 at 08:35 AM.
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by joycesjag
Hey Tom, I have used the FelPro aftermarket valve, spark plug, rubber bolt seals in many V6 S Types, well documented here without any issues.

Felpro supplies all the above mentioned seals. The thingies picture above go into the rubber bolt seals. I would definitely replace the 6 upper and 6 lower intake seals/gaskets. Also sold separately are the 2 VVT seals, each valve cover has a seal on top/front. Have you replaced the IMT o-rings yet, now would be a good time as well.

Remember Aholbro (Zane) has a write up if you find the the magnesium coil holes have rotted away.

Its not a bad job, take your time, you'll be fine. I think I have write ups w/pictures in the how to do board.
Rick, I know that I have some of what I think you are referring to in the magnesium coil holes have rotted away. I assume you are talking about that is on top of the spark plug/coil location on the cam cover.. If I did nothing with them and left as they are- what is the downside? IMT rings were (for their money I guess) replaced twice by Jag years ago and there does not appear to be any leakage from there.

Thanks

Tom
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 11:12 AM
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Rotted coil holes will allow water to run into spark plug wells from rain or heaven forbid hosing your engine down.

Club is correct. The VVT seals can be replaced wothout removing the cam/valve covers. Just easier if you already have them on the work bench.

You can pull lower IMT tuning valve out of plenum, my bet is there is oil pooling in the chamber. Oil doesn't pool in the upper chamber.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by joycesjag
Rotted coil holes will allow water to run into spark plug wells from rain or heaven forbid hosing your engine down.

Club is correct. The VVT seals can be replaced wothout removing the cam/valve covers. Just easier if you already have them on the work bench.

You can pull lower IMT tuning valve out of plenum, my bet is there is oil pooling in the chamber. Oil doesn't pool in the upper chamber.
Even if the IMT rings have been changed twice, although miles ago? Why/how would oil pool in the lower chamber and what is the downside?. They are cheap enough to order and the people I will have do it can easily handle the matter.

The car stays garaged and I drive about 6500 miles a year. Just doing things to get by until I find the car I want. I have seen some of that deterioration, but have never had a problem and know better that to hose down the engine.

Tom
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzwineman
...Why/how would oil pool in the lower chamber and what is the downside?...
Closed crankcase breather system. Oil deposits/coking may occur on the back side of the inlet valves.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by NBCat
Closed crankcase breather system. Oil deposits/coking may occur on the back side of the inlet valves.

So does changing the IMT o-rings again and cleaning out what may be there solve that or is there something else that should be done?

Why does Jag make something that is so straight forward in other cars a huge problem????

Thanks

Tom
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 03:07 PM
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Tom,

The closed breather system is an emission control component that's common to all later ICEs, not just Jaguar.

If the IMT o-rings are of the green variety, they've been already changed to the latest version. The main reason for changing the IMT o-rings is to reduce the possibility of having the mixture become lean causing misfires.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by NBCat
Tom,

The closed breather system is an emission control component that's common to all later ICEs, not just Jaguar.

If the IMT o-rings are of the green variety, they've been already changed to the latest version. The main reason for changing the IMT o-rings is to reduce the possibility of having the mixture become lean causing misfires.
Jaguar did them twice. There is no leaking fro them- is i t worthwhile to go on and have changed? They are cheap enough.

How long does it take you to do one of these valve gaskets jobs in a 3.0 S-type? What are reasonable hours?

Thanks Doug.

Tom
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 03:59 PM
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To change the cam cover gaskets, spark plug boss seals, and all associated parts including the spark plugs on both cylinder banks takes roughly 4 to 6 hours. It may take less if the appropriate tools are available such as a 1/4-inch drive 7mm and 8mm universal sockets. The time of 4 to 6 hours also includes bleeding the cooling system of air.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by NBCat
To change the cam cover gaskets, spark plug boss seals, and all associated parts including the spark plugs on both cylinder banks takes roughly 4 to 6 hours. It may take less if the appropriate tools are available such as a 1/4-inch drive 7mm and 8mm universal sockets. The time of 4 to 6 hours also includes bleeding the cooling system of air.
Thanks

TBB
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 06:40 PM
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Can I start from the beginning? What is the issue to start with with that 2006 3.0L S-Type? Is it leaking oil from gaskets in the cam-cover area? Is that why you want to swap seals?

If so, yes swapping the cam cover seals (2 x outer seal and 2 x inner seal around the spark plugs), some other seals on the covers, the 6 upper and 6 lower air intake seals and maybe even the little seal rings around the fixing bolts might be the solution, IF you do not have the much bigger problem that your cam-covers themselves are leaking thru a number of corrosion holes (mainly around the fixing holes)...

You have to understand that Jaguar have used an utterly non-suitable material for those cam-covers: It's Magnesium or a Magnesium alloy...
Quick lesson in Chemistry: Magnesium in the vicinity of steel, iron and Aluminum is a "sacrificial anode": Magnesium (where the designed use is intentional and not based upon incompetency) dissolves itself to protect the steel and aluminum nearby from corrosion. Magnesium-blocks are fitted to the outer hull on a boat to protect the steel-hull. The Magnesium dissolves slowly due to galvanic-corrosion. So does the Magnesium of the cam-covers, not that THIS makes any sense. I have replaced my cam covers. I wrote a thread about that, if interested (let me know).

So did you you have a very good look, if you can spot, if your cam-covers themselves are dissolving? When I had this problem on a just purchased 2004 3.0L S-Type, I did not know all this, and thus I did not look for holes in the cam covers, and thus, I did not see them, but they would have been visible, if I'd known, what I am looking for.

And if you plan repairs on you Jag because you have an oil leak around the com covers...: Where exactly is the oil coming from?

And back to the stem seals: If there is a good reason to swap them, then yes. What is your reason? I just swapped the 8 stem seals (4 cylinders, just 1 in and one out valve each) on my 25 year old van, because the old ones where in a horrible condition (which however can only be seen, once the old valve had been removed) - so the actual reason was, that was in that area anyway (swapping the head gasket) and that the stem seals came with the gasket-kit).

There are 2 approaches of swapping them, both are a lot of work: Before or after you remove the engine block above the head gasket. I did the latter. And I properly cleaned off all the carbon of then cylinder tops, the underside of the removed engine block, and most of all the valves (nice trick: place each valve into a drill and hold something against it (I used this abrasive stuff (I do not know what it is called), which is kind of something between fine sandpaper and steel wool and then I used 1200 grid wet sandpaper. It's all very time intensive.

Normally special tools are required to remove the valves and the seals (to get to the stem seals) - I welded and made up special tools myself.
 

Last edited by Peter_of_Australia; Dec 22, 2023 at 09:31 PM. Reason: Improvements to text
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Old Dec 23, 2023 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Peter_of_Australia
Can I start from the beginning? What is the issue to start with with that 2006 3.0L S-Type? Is it leaking oil from gaskets in the cam-cover area? Is that why you want to swap seals?

If so, yes swapping the cam cover seals (2 x outer seal and 2 x inner seal around the spark plugs), some other seals on the covers, the 6 upper and 6 lower air intake seals and maybe even the little seal rings around the fixing bolts might be the solution, IF you do not have the much bigger problem that your cam-covers themselves are leaking thru a number of corrosion holes (mainly around the fixing holes)...

You have to understand that Jaguar have used an utterly non-suitable material for those cam-covers: It's Magnesium or a Magnesium alloy...
Quick lesson in Chemistry: Magnesium in the vicinity of steel, iron and Aluminum is a "sacrificial anode": Magnesium (where the designed use is intentional and not based upon incompetency) dissolves itself to protect the steel and aluminum nearby from corrosion. Magnesium-blocks are fitted to the outer hull on a boat to protect the steel-hull. The Magnesium dissolves slowly due to galvanic-corrosion. So does the Magnesium of the cam-covers, not that THIS makes any sense. I have replaced my cam covers. I wrote a thread about that, if interested (let me know).

So did you you have a very good look, if you can spot, if your cam-covers themselves are dissolving? When I had this problem on a just purchased 2004 3.0L S-Type, I did not know all this, and thus I did not look for holes in the cam covers, and thus, I did not see them, but they would have been visible, if I'd known, what I am looking for.

And if you plan repairs on you Jag because you have an oil leak around the com covers...: Where exactly is the oil coming from?

And back to the stem seals: If there is a good reason to swap them, then yes. What is your reason? I just swapped the 8 stem seals (4 cylinders, just 1 in and one out valve each) on my 25 year old van, because the old ones where in a horrible condition (which however can only be seen, once the old valve had been removed) - so the actual reason was, that was in that area anyway (swapping the head gasket) and that the stem seals came with the gasket-kit).

There are 2 approaches of swapping them, both are a lot of work: Before or after you remove the engine block above the head gasket. I did the latter. And I properly cleaned off all the carbon of then cylinder tops, the underside of the removed engine block, and most of all the valves (nice trick: place each valve into a drill and hold something against it (I used this abrasive stuff (I do not know what it is called), which is kind of something between fine sandpaper and steel wool and then I used 1200 grid wet sandpaper. It's all very time intensive.

Normally special tools are required to remove the valves and the seals (to get to the stem seals) - I welded and made up special tools myself.
Thanks for your reply, This just appears to be a normal cam cover leak with the biggest areas from around where the bolts are (especially the back bolt on the passenger side), hitting the heat shields and flowing to the bottom of them, this after a time collecting and dripping a touch. As stated I could live with it. but I want to replace the plugs and coils on the 2 cylinders that you cannot reach without removal of the intake, so might as well do so. I may have put half of quart of oil in the car in the last 6 months, but that could occur with an older car anyway. It is a 2005, not a 2006 and perhaps there are some differences. I have zero intention of going as deep as you discussed. Not going to pay that much to have someone to do it. I would rather put that toward a new car. Don't appear t have any difficulty in those areas anyway..

Tom in Dallas
 
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