We just acquired a very nice 2003 3.0L S-type, 73K miles. Everything works great except the remote keyless entry system. We knew this when buying and the PO even mentioned it in his ad. The PO had replaced the battery in the remote to no effect. Before buying I read a number of threads on the topic in this forum and others, and it didn't seem to be a big enough issue not to buy a v. nice car at a reasonable price. Nevertheless, I would like to get it fixed.

One clue may be that when the key is removed from the ignition a chime continues to sound as long as the door is open. Might this mean that the car thinks that the key is still in the ignition, and won't therefore enable the remote? The central locking works fine using the key in the door lock.

Thanks!
Andy

 

The chime is usually a 'key still in ignition' or 'lights still on'

The fob will not lock if the 'switch flap' is stuck in the 'key in' position.

This was an issue with the X-Type but I have seen it in the S-Type as well.

You could also have the 'static damaged' keyfob transmitter.

bob gauff

 

Thanks for the TSB Bob!! I have not seen this problem before. Any idea what a new lock cylinder costs?

Also check it with the other fob if you have it. The S Type comes from the factory with two regular key fobs which are black and a valet key fob which is green. Very common to get a car with only one key fob. They are pretty expensive to replace and the dealer needs to program them for proper operation.
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I had this same problem but mine was caused by the 2 bolts on the tranny shifter cable plate being loose. The car was going into park but not fully making the key fob not work and door chime to ding because it thought the car was not in park. Tighten the bolts down and it's been perfect sense. This would be the cheapest route to check first.

 

Thanks for the tips guys!
I'll check the loose cable theory. Is it easy to access?

 

Take a look at the S Type oil change video on you tube. It will show you where the bolts are and give a better general understanding of your new vehicle.

 

arty: Yes, I saw that in the FAQ. Is it necessary to remove the belly pan first to get at those bolts?

 

No the belly pan does not have to be removed.

 

Well, I checked the two bolts. One snugged up a tad, the other was tight. No difference there. The chime still rings with the door open.

I also checked the park function on a slight incline. The car rolls in neutral, but holds in park, so I am thinking the problem is elsewhere. The looseness in the ignition lock worries me. Between 0 and I there is no resistance, and from I to II only slight, when you turn the key to the right.

 

One other clue, maybe. The electric parking braking will activate, but not release, using the button on the console. It releases when put in reverse or D.

 

IS THE SWITCH FLAP IN THE LOCK CYLINDER STUCK???????????????????????????????????

bob gauff

 

Bob:
Not sure about a stuck switch flap. I did lube it, and I can see something moving out of the way when I insert the key or small screw driver. When stuck, what would it look like? An open large open hole? What I am seeing is a metallic flap that pivots downwards freely when pushed. However this flap does not cover the entire opening when it pivots back into a closed position. There is a small gap, about 1/8 inch wide or less at roughly a 1 to 3 o'clock position on the key opening.

 

It's a critical part of the very systems which you have identified as faulty, so it looks like #1 suspect. You could probably acquire a working one cheaply (wrecker/ebay) and either compare against that (if you wish to, mainly out of curiosity) or just swap it. It's the electrical part that is at issue, so an alternative is to figure out all the things it should do in each switch position and check electrically that it does them all, reliably. (I'd swap for another.)

 

If I swap another switch will I need new keys too?

I have been looking on eBay and it seems that MY2002.5 is a break point for the the assembly. Is this correct?

 

I don't know for sure but I don't think so. Chances are you have a mechanical issue that's causing an electrical one due to years of use so you can probably fix / swap. The FAQs have a PDF with specs of VIN breaks - there are several.

 

Thanks.
In the S-type parts guide in the FAQ the part number for the ignition housing assembly (XR8015757) and the ignition lock (XR8013528) are the same for all years, but then under 2003-2005, in addition to XR8015757 it has two additional part numbers for the ignition housing assembly listed for manual and automatic transmission. Which to use?

It also appears that the ignition lock, the mechanical part, is a separate assembly and is not included with the ignition housing assembly. I assume that the original lock could be used with a new housing assembly. If I have to replace the lock, then I suppose new keys are required. Can one replace just the actual key without having to also replace the fob?