I've been on another thread for a few weeks with this now but was advised to take it here now. I hope I'm in the right place. Here are the steps I've taken so far but it still won't start or get pressure at the schrader valve.
I removed the fuel pump and replaced the motor in that device. I checked for voltage with the key on, on the wires coming into the pump. Good there. I swapped out the relays (temporarily traded one for another) and checked for voltage. Good there. Had one blown fuse, replaced it, it didn't blow again. Inertia switch not popped.Tank full of gas. Didn't check crank shaft sensor but didn't think that would keep gas from getting to the fuel rail.
I'd appreciate any help on this. Thank you

 

Clearly you need fuel and it's only the pump, filter(s) & piping that count.

With no fuel pressure you have to get the above working. The workshop manual has lots of info.

 

Hi, Steve:

1) Did you check that the inexpensive replacement pump actually works prior to installation?

2) As I recall you transferred the mesh strainer to the new pump, but did you check/replace the actual fuel filter?

Your original pump appears to have burnt out and a fuse was blown; something most likely caused this to happen. A clogged fuel filter may be a possible culprit and they are cheap to replace. Using the "replace the cheaper part first" philosophy, that would be my next step, assuming the fuel pump actually works.

 

Okay, I'm going to confess. I did not replace the filters. My bad. Now that's the very last thing that I can think of so I'm going to go back in there and pull the pump replace them. My reason? I had had so much of a nightmare trying to find those damn little retainer clips that I was frustrated and burnt out on the whole project. First of all the filters that came with the new pump motor didn't fit. Go figure. A filter that didn't fit the motor in the same package. Yes, I did remove the pump after installing it and put 12 volts to in and yes, it did work.
Those darn fragile little retainer clips are the main things that keep me from going back in and removing it again. Why can't you just go out and buy more anywhere? The wrecking yard charged me $40 for three little plastic clips because they said their pump would be useless without them. GRRR
So yes, I'm going back to see if I can just buy some filters that will fit and see if that works.
Thanks

 

Steve - You should also have a canister type fuel filter. On the facelift models it is behind the liner in one of the front wheel wells (the left side, I believe...). The brass mesh in the fuel pump assembly is merely a "strainer" to trap coarse debris. The S-Type uses a Ford "quick disconnect" filter, so changing it is fairly straight forward. Perhaps the owner of a pre-facelift S-type can chime in and confirm the location of the filter on your cars.

 

Here is a Youtube video on fuel filter replacement on the pre-facelift S-type:

 

Well would you look at that! One more thing to check. THANK YOU ! ! I also didn't know that about the mesh filters in the tank. Could this mean I can eliminate the hassle of removing the pump and the sending unit and trying to find new mesh filters for them? I wouldn't mind if it wasn't for those darn retainers. I mean if I could go right out and buy some new ones I wouldn't mind but they're nearly impossible to find and very fragile. Thanks again. I'll look into this newly found filter.

 

Hi Steve.
I say this neither to offend or upset you, but to remind all of us why downloading the full factory workshop manual, EPC etc (Stickies here - Gus' JagRepair.com - or DVD) is so invaluable.

Best wishes,

Ken

 

I can't find Gus' JagRepair.com
Do you have a web site link?
Thanks

 

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Oops!

I guess my inclusion of Gus' name fooled ya . . . must start bracketing [JagRepair.com] or providing the hotlink as Norri has done. Thanks mate.

For years, I have been awed by Gus' contributions of this resource, so I feel compelled to acknowledge his personal contribution.

Cheers,

Ken

 

Update, going on my 4th week of trying to get fuel to the engine. I did in fact find the fuel filter on the drivers side (USA) wheel well. My hopes were that it would be clogged and that would be the end of this nightmare. Maybe I'm wrong but I could easily blow through it. Anyway, since I have this all apart like this I'm going to put in a new filter anyway. Call me silly but I thought that if the filter was the problem, I should be able to leave the filter out and turn the key on for just a second and get fuel. Didn't happen. So I left the key on for a good twenty seconds. Nothing. I'm betting it has something to do with it needing pressure in the lines. Not sure. So, off to get a filter anyway.
Here's a thought, could I or should I use my compressor and try blowing through the fuel line going to the fuel rail? Back the other direction to the tank? I won't try this until someone says it's okay.
By the way, yes, I did find the shop manual with lots of info but nothing so far has worked.
Thank you

 

You may have already done this test, but have you checked the earth/ground circuit from the fuel pump to the Rear Electronic Module?

From the Workshop Manual:

A11 : CHECK THE CONTINUITY BETWEEN THE FUEL PUMP GROUND SUPPLY AND
THE REAR ELECTRONIC MODULE
1. Measure the resistance between the fuel pump electrical connector FP4 pin 3, (BR) and the rear electronic module CA101 pin 12, (BR). Is the resistance less than 0.5 Ohms?

 

Also, did you check the voltage from the fuel pump relay? Should not be below 10.5 volts or the pump will not operate. If it is less than 10.5 volts, the relay should be replaced.

 

Stupid question number 43. I can't find the R.E.M. ...rear electronic module
I'm looking at soome internet diagrams but they're not clear. Somewhere in the trunk I think, on the passenger side but where.It's not the plastic box the fuses and relays are in is it. Nope didn't think so. Where?
Thank you

 

There are no stupid questions.

Here is the page from the Electrical Guide for the facelift models showing the location of the various modules. The earlier cars are similar.

 

Thank you for this. I didn't pull that cardboardish liner all the way out but I assume it's down in there somewhere. I don't seem to be getting voltage to my fuel pump and I wondering if I really need to dig into this R.E.M. Now I scratching around trying to find ways to test for voltage and/or grounds for the fuel system.
So far I've checked, swapped or replaces the only known fuses or relays for the fuel system. I still don't have pressure at the fuel rail and I'll be darn if I've ever heard the fuel pump working at all. I unplugged the connection at the fuel pump and got 12 volts coming in. I've pulled the pump out again and checked the internal connectors. Not sure where to check or how to check anything else. I miss my '56 Chevy Nomad...

 

Just to "cheer you up", with many/most more recent cars the makers do not provide anything except paid-for, by the time period, online access whereas the workshop manual is free here.

You've ... er ... never had it so good?

You may be able to see the various signals using a 'scope (even a very cheap pod for a PC will do).

So far, assuming you're in the right area, you appear to have an incredibly rare problem. (I worry a bit about that assumption.)

 

Steve, Steve, Steve,

I think it's time to break out the tranquilizer dart gun. Please hold still so I can get a clean shot. You'll only feel a slight sting, followed by an overriding peaceful feeling, as if you were actually immersed in an Eagles song from the early 70s. When you come to, you'll find yourself moving at a much slower pace, with a substantial chance of identifying the root cause why your poor car has no fuel pressure.

I troubleshoot for a living and it's been painful watching this story unfold over the last three weeks. You still don't know if it the pump itself is actually running. Lots of potential fault scenarios here. You need to identify the correct one or you'll just be chasing your tail. We will also need to discuss the important difference of troubleshooting results being conclusive versus just probable, but more on that later.

This post will offer no definitive fixes. It will only guide you towards the root cause and help steer away from dead ends. Three weeks in, you're not going to get a shotgun fix. You'll need to put on your thinking cap and really work through the clues. You're not stranded by the side of the road in any danger, such as seeing Nancy Pelosi walking towards you with a clipboard in hand. You're working from the comfort of your own home, with good diagnostic tools available.

RULE #1: STICK TO ONE THREAD

You've got several threads going, but this makes it very difficult for cranky old guys like me to keep track of what has and hasn't been done. Or somebody offered good advice over in thread B, but since you're on F now, it's easy to miss that if reviewing. Just for giggles, let's stick with this thread.

Here are some basic scenarios, in no particular order. You'll need to figure out which one is in play if you have any hope of fixing the problem. Heck, two faults might be active. If so, you'll have to find and fix one, then start all over without making any assumptions to find the second fault. And no assuming new parts are good. It's rare, but not unheard of, and can be a troubleshooting nightmare.

1) An electrical fault is preventing the pump from running altogether. Examples include blown fuses, broken wires, a bad pump motor, etc.

2) An electrical fault is letting the pump run, but barely and thus pressure is super low. Examples include a corroded connector, a bad pump motor, dirty relay contacts, etc. This one is a huge gotcha, as you've said you've got 12v at the pump connector, but that isn't conclusive. Imagine a multi strand wire with all strands broken but one. This will allow a teensy electron flow for a meter to show power, but not enough to actually run the pump. All your "12v at the pump connector" means is you don't have a total break, such as a blown fuse. Conclusive versus probable, always remember that when troubleshooting. You have yet to prove conclusively you have adequate current flow to run the pump. The use of a test lamp (draws more current) is a good means to confirm potentially misleading meter readings.

3) The pump operation has been deliberately inhibited. I don't think it is, but don't automatically rule it out. The inertia switch, for example, cuts power to the pump in a collision. You've already said you've seen power at the pump connector, so who knows. It could be the RECM is monitoring the integrity of the pump circuit and that's the voltage you're seeing, but it's not designed to run the pump. Another possibility is the antitheft system has been tripped and shut off the pump. I suggested this possibility earlier, but didn't see any follow-up. I'm not positive if the Jag system works this way, but some cars certainly do.

4) The pump itself may be bad, electrically or mechanically. If the shaft was sheared or the pump impeller was loose, the motor will spin but you'd get no pressure. Or all may be good mechanically, but the motor is weak and can't build any pressure. It will spin just fine unloaded, but bog down and stall under pressure. A no-load test outside the tank isn't conclusive.

5) The pickup line in the tank has a problem that is blocking fuel flow. You mentioned something about some screens, so that's worth investigating down the road. Also, if a pickup line wasn't seated fully, could the pump suck air instead of fuel?

6) A longshot, but what about those couplers that gave you grief? By chance are they self-closing if disconnected, like an air hose fitting on a compressor?

Those are the big ones, off the top of my head. There could be others, of course. Don't rush in and try all six at once. Do your homework and concentrate on what you think is the most likely scenario. Pick one and work it all the way through. Always keep in mind certain results are not conclusive, so don't fall into that trap.

If I had to pick one, I'd suggest jumpering FUSED power directly to the (installed) pump for a quick test and seeing if you get pressure. This would help isolate if the problem was electric or mechanical in nature. I gave instructions earlier, maybe even in this thread. I never saw any follow-up if you tried that.

And please, please, please, it's okay to give long, detailed answers. A blanket "I checked the wiring" (less typing) means almost nothing to me. It's more helpful to say "12v between the two pins at X connector, verified good under load with a test lamp" or something like that.

Also, can I have the tranquilizer dart back? They are expensive to replace, but can be refilled. Thanks.

 

I'm done chasing all the different ones!!!!

bob