I keep leaning towards having to bite the bullet and take her in to the shop via tow truck. After all of this time and effort that would be disappointing to do plus, I'm 69 and on of budget. I'm afraid of a thousand dollar or more charge just to get her fixed. I found out the hard way how cheap and easy it is to change over coils. I had on bad one, didn't know what it was, took it in and paid $250 for them to fix just one. I needed more later and found out that I can buy 8 for $40 and put them in myself in about an hour. So way they charge at the shop scares. Oh well.
So moving right along... What is the global open test? A new thing keeps coming at me every day.
Also I went to buy a relay or two just to have them and found that they're not at the two auto parts stores I went to. Where to get those? Online? Dealer?

 

Norri described the global open test in the last paragraph of post #75, copied below for your convenience:

"You could try and test the global open function as it uses the SCP network.
Lock the car with the key then unlock it and hold the key in the unlock position, the doors should unlock and all the windows should open."

You can also do the same test with the key fob. Press the unlock button once to unlock the doors. Press the unlock button a second time and hold it. After a brief pause, all windows and the sunroof will open.

The relays? They are readily available. They are common relays as used on many makes, only stamped with a Jaguar part number using some very expensive ink, and then packaged in a diamond-encrusted bag inside a gold-plated box. What is the part number on them? You should be able to cross reference them online and find them at your local NAPA, for example. I've purchased some on Amazon, too. Stay away from generic brands. Get Bosch or some other name brand.

Did you confirm nothing else on your key ring?

Did you try the click test on those two relays?

Does the odometer work or does it display dashes?

You're so close, it seems a shame to consider giving up just yet.

 

More deep philosophical thoughts, all for no charge, and worth every penny...

I'm going to offer some very specific suggestions, and I need you to please answer them in detail. This isn't just random stuff being tossed in your direction. I'm doing my best with what is available to get to the bottom of the problem. We're not really getting any additional input from others because the system is such a mystery to us without dealer-level diagnostic equipment. Nobody here seems to have any specific tips, such as "check connector X pin Y for 12V". You are in uncharted territory, a pioneer so to speak...

From what I can gather, Jaguar did not make much PATS diagnostic info available to the public, especially on the early ('99-02) S-Types. You've got to do some extrapolating on your own. For example, scroll up to post #67 and follow that link for diagnostic flow charts on the 2003+ models. Not all of the details are applicable for the early cars, but look at the flowchart for code 16, on page 19 of the PDF. The first thing they have you do is check for power at three pins on the PCM, and for ground at 2 other pins there. This is Jaguar saying, "Hey, this is important!".

So even though Jaguar won't give us any details for checking the earlier system, we can safely extrapolate that we should check power and ground at the PCM, just like on the later system. I'll need a little more time to dig through the wiring diagrams to suggest which pins exactly, so let me get back to that in a future post. But I'd say before you throw in the towel and fork out the big bucks for professional diagnostics, check that easy stuff yourself. This isn't difficult, and your time is essentially free.

I think I may have found the mythical "bulkhead connector". Lots of stuff goes through this connector, so it's worth checking. Follow this link, courtesy of Gus:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...troduction.pdf


Scroll to page 81 of the PDF, for an illustration showing the location of the GECM. It also shows the "Secondary Junction Box" up against the firewall. Make sure this connector is secure. The view is looking up from the floor at the (US) driver's feet, looking forward and outboard.

Next I'd like you to check fuse #24 at the primary junction box (US passenger footwell). This feeds the PATS transceiver as seen in wiring diagram figure 02.1. I think it's probably good as your key seems to be recognized, but check anyway.

In the trunk, please do the click test on the "Switched System Power Relay 1". This feeds fuse the fuse mentioned above that feeds the PATS transceiver. This click test is in addition to checking the 2 "Powertrain Control Relays" under the hood.

More later, gotta run.

 

I'll add to check fuse #6 in the primary junction box and fuse #18 in the front power distribution box. Then try your click test on relays #14 & #3 in the front power distribution box. These are the powertrain control relays.

 

Most acronyms are as per my sig...

 

Steve,

Any progress?

I've had my nose buried in the wiring diagrams this morning. I think the following is a good plan of attack.

Some of this is a rehash of previous suggestions, but with more details and perhaps easier ways to verify things are happening properly. Much is based on the likelihood of external faults such as relays, fuses, and connectors. Looking around online for Ford PATS issues, I keep seeing comments about how changing some relay fixed the problem. Remember, moving parts are far more likely to fail versus anything else. So even though you have what appears to be an insurmountable problem, making you long for your ancient Chevy, the root cause could be as simple as a balky relay manifesting itself as a complex-looking security issue. Deep breaths, gonna get you through this...

Also, please be aware the relays can have confusing labels. For example, a certain relay is called Powertrain Control Relay #1 but it sits in position #14 in the Front Power Distribution Box under the hood. So be careful when looking for this (or any) relay. You'll see one label within the actual wiring diagram, but possibly something else looking under the hood. I'd suggest looking at the "Relay Identification and Location" pages (20 and 21 of the PDF) for illustrations to always be sure.


The following steps are given in order of likelihood, with allowances for laziness. The hardest step is given last. With some of the possible faults, I've given ways to verify normal operation by looking at other items on the same circuit.

1) Check the fuse to the PATS transceiver. This is F24 in the primary junction box. See wiring diagram Fig 02.1 for the transceiver. Power to this fuse comes via Switched System Relay #1, conveniently located in position #1 in the trunk. (In this instance, the numbers match up.)

2) Do the click test on this SSP Relay #1 in back. You should feel the relay click open and closed as the ignition key is cycled on and off. Remember, this only verifies the relay is getting the command. It doesn't test that power is actually being delivered downstream of the relay, covered in the next step.

3) To verify this relay is delivering power downstream, you can easily test other loads supplied in addition to the PATS transceiver. Turn the key to on and watch the front turn signals. They should respond properly to the turn signal stalk.

4) Make sure the instrument pack is receiving power. Check fuse F17 in the primary junction box.

5) This F17 fuse gets its power directly from the ignition switch. Test these contacts by repeating the click test on the fuel pump relay R7 in the trunk. If the click test is still good, that tells us the portion of the ignition switch that also feeds the instrument pack (via primary box F17) is good.

6) Check fuse F18 under the hood. This is part of the power feed to the PCM.

7) Do the click test on Powertrain Control Relay #1. Careful with the location, this is position #14 under the hood.

8) Do the click test on Powertrain Control Relay #2. Odd labeling again, this is position #3 under the hood.

9) At the primary junction box, check fuse F6. This is power to the data link connector for the OBD port, and possibly to the rest of the SCP system.

10) Inspect that mythical bulkhead connector, with the location as shown in post #83. It looks like everything on the SCP network goes through this connector, so please check it. See wiring diagram figure 20.1, it's called the "Secondary Junction Box".

After these checks, I can direct you to run some power and ground checks directly at a couple of modules, but run the above tests first. Other than access to the bulkhead connector, it's all easy stuff.

 

One addendum to my post above:

For each of the listed fuses and relays, do the metal strip test in each socket to make sure they grip properly.

 

Hey Karl, Please mail me your tranquilizer gun. I want to shoot myself. You should see the stack of pages that I've printed out over this damn fuel pump issue. It shouldn't be this hard. But there's a 'side car' that keeps making in more difficult. Where to start? I'm slowly building my vocabulary when someone says "PATS" or "SCP" or any number of other abbreviations. I find myself running to remind myself of "what the heck it that". Okay? I get that. But the biggest thing which should be simple is a damn Shop Manual that makes sense! I don't need to get a free PDF on line if it's going to drive me nuts. Doesn't someone, somewhere have a Shop Manual that has a Table of Contents that shows a Page number where you can scroll down and SEE a page number? How about a glossary that will get you to the right page? Like I said I've got about 2 dozen pages printed out now and I'm still not finding things I'm looking for. Now, how simple must this be....I'm simply looking for a chart that shows what number fuse is where in the primary Junction Box. Sounds simple right? I've been here for a half hour just trying to find out where fuse 24 in the Primary Junction Box is. I have a chart for Rear Power Distribution Box that shows the numbers for the relays and the cover for that box has all the numbers for the fuses. Great! And the Front Power Distribution Box chart shows the numbers of the relays and the cover shows the numbers for the fuses.
I set out to day to go down your list and got stuck right off the bat trying to check fuse #24.
I need to get a Free manual if it's not going to help. Any suggestions so I can continue. BTW, I was a good boy and looked in "Stickies", went to the post for manuals and nothing worked. Hmmm. My hair if falling out rapidly over this. Fuse 24 where are you ! ?!?!??!

 

No way am I sharing the tranquilizer gun. It's way too much fun.

​​​​​​Abbreviations and acronyms? Most are covered in the front of the wiring diagrams. Bookmark this link, it will be your second best friend, after me of course:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Near the top of the page, in the electrical section, select your model year. You will be using the PDF over and over again. Near the front, it has good illustrations of the three fuse and relay panels. Print them out for reference.

You will also find most abbreviations in the first few pages. SCP, for example, is Standard Corporate Protocol Network. This is a very simple double wire network connecting all of the computer modules. This is how they talk to each other, via digital packets, I think. It may sound super high tech, but on a practical level, all we have to do is make sure the wires are intact and the computers take care of the magic. The actual wiring itself is super basic. Nothing to fear there. The SCP network only handles communication between modules. Module power, sensor inputs, and actuator commands are all handled via other wires, not the SCP network.

Be aware if a module isn't powered up (blown fuse, loose connector, etc.), the other modules can't communicate with it. This may get reported as a scary-sounding SCP network error, but it may be a very simple problem that just sounds bad. In the immortal words of Douglas Adams: Don't panic!

PATS? Curiously, that acronym is not listed in the wiring diagrams. It's the Passive Anti Theft System. This is what is presently preventing your car from starting. We've just got to extrapolate some details, that's all. And it may not be an actual security problem. Say, for example, one of the relevant modules in the security system has a blown fuse. Or maybe the bulkhead connector is loose, which takes out the SCP network The system can't complete the pre-start security verification, so it assumes you're a thief and protects the car.

 

I suppose the workshop manual with hot links is JTIS.

Or the online TOPIX (costs some money).

Generally, car makers have gone online and access costs money. Jaguar are the same.

Sometimes there are printed "shop manuals" from third parties, e.g. Haynes, or you may print out what they provide (AllData et al).

We are lucky to have cheap/free access to huge amounts of S-Type data - far more than for many cars or indeed makes of car.

Generally, this is aimed at people who mend/maintain cars for a living, full time, i.e. car techs/mechs. Those who DIY usually accept this and understand it means they have to work somewhat to find or understand things and to fill in gaps with what those in the industry consider basic knowledge.

When this gets too tough the usual fix is to pay one of the techs/mechs

 

Ah, the great JTIS debate...

Sure you want to open that can of worms? Do you really want to make grown men cry? Some forum members swear by JTIS, and others like me swear at it. When it works, it is wonderful, but I've found it to be frustratingly glitchy. I've tried the free download from the stickies. I've tried the CD version from eBay, and that was a little better, but not much. There's been much discussion here about it, and one's computer seems to be a big factor. You've got to consider JTIS was intended for an official dealer network with full IT support. It was never intended for amateur end users like us.

I finally gave up and bought a downloadable PDF version from an outfit that has since closed. So what's a poor guy to do now? Try searching eBay for a downloadable PDF version. Watch out for Haynes or the like, make sure it is advertised as genuine factory. I saw several that look exactly like what I have. Most sellers even offered a CD version for extra cost, if you'd prefer.

In the meantime, do you even need a service manual for your troubleshooting? Not really. The wiring diagrams I linked yesterday (JagRepair.com) have virtually everything you need to know. The component locations are not quite as detailed, but will still get you in the right area. The front of the wiring diagrams has excellent illustrations of the fuse and relay locations.

Don't get sidetracked by your frustrations with the service manual. You can do everything I suggested yesterday (post #86) with just the wiring diagrams. You could do all but the last step in under an hour, easily. Inspecting the bulkhead connector may take a little effort, but even that shouldn't be too difficult. Worry about the service manual another day.

​​​​​​I'd also suggest hooking up a battery charger. Your poor car has been sitting a while and normal memory loads may have run the battery down. I

Also, don't forget the questions from post #82, copied for your convenience:

Did you confirm nothing else on your key ring?

Does the odometer work or does it display dashes?

 

+1 don't worry about JTIS at this stage, the wiring diagrams are what you need for now.

 

They are, despite asking for something else.

But they do require effort so that the detailed information is found and used.

I've never found as good electrical stuff for any other car. I suggest using a professional is the alternative to studying them.

 

Fuse #24...good
Fuse #17...good
Fuse #6.....good
Relay #1 in back test with turn signal.....good
Fuse # 18 under hood....guess what? There was no fuse there! I never removed it. How does that work. I pulled out fuse # 15 and put it in socket # 18, the car started for about 3 seconds, more attempts... nothing Fuel rail pressure... none.
No idea where the fuse went. I certainly wouldn't have removed it and put it away. Now to buy some new fuses and a new relay or two. This is very odd.
I must walk in my sleep.
One other thing I just noticed; the little lights light up on my dash with the key on but the fuel gauge shows dead empty and I have a full tank. Is this a clue?
Are the two rear red 'side lights' suppose to light up when the turn signal is on or are they just reflectors. Mine didn't light up but the two amber ones in front did along with the other 4 turn signal lights in the headlights and taillights .

 

Also, that fuse F18 feeds about a half dozen smaller fuses downstream. See figures 1.3 and 1.6 in the wiring diagrams. Even if F18 remains intact, it could be that one of those downstream fuses has blown, but was fine previously because no current was flowing with F18 removed.

Is the red security light on the dash behaving itself now?

The odometer? Mileage or dashes?

 

Sounds like progress!

 

When I took relay 7 in the trunk out this morning so I could go buy one or two just in case, I noticed it was warm. I hadn't tried to start the car or done anything like that. I just went out, opened the trunk and pulled it out. It felt warm. I had this one out before and don't remember if it was warm then or not. It could have been and I just didn't notice.
Next I went to three auto parts stores, one of them being my favorite with a huge warehouse, to buy a relay or two. They spent 20 minutes looking through a thick book at hundreds if not thousands of relays. No luck. Now what? Any suggestions?
So the present faults are this:
Code 16 at the security light
The mystery of the missing fuse # 18 under the hood. Remember I don't think I ever took it out but it seems the car ran before without it if that's possible.
Car started for about 3 seconds when I borrowed another 40 amp fuse for fuse #18 / didn't start again and had no pressure at the fuel rail
Warm relay #7 in the trunk
No fuel gauge showing on the dash with the key on
Rear red side 'lights' not working when blinker is on. (not sure if they're reflectors or lights at this point)
Crossing my fingers that the warm relay is the culprit.

 

Steve,

I'll have to research the mystery of the warm relay. Are you positive about that?

For that missing fuse F18 under the hood, there's no way your car could ever run without it. Amongst many other things, it powers the all of the injectors and ignition coils.

Before we end up in the weeds, can you please confirm the fuse location matches this illustration from the wiring diagram? Also, please confirm the front power distribution box looks like this, with the outboard side at a slight angle:






If the front power distribution box does NOT look like that, you must have a car manufactured after the cutover to 2003 models, when there were significant changes made to the electrical system. That would throw much of our troubleshooting out the window.

If the front power distribution box matches that diagram, and F18 was indeed the missing fuse, can you please repeat the first 9 steps listed in post #86. It shouldn't take long, mostly just checking power or that certain other items also work. When done, please confirm fuse F18 has NOT blown again, too.

 

Steve,

Just had a sick feeling that I may have been using the wrong wiring diagrams all this time. Big changes occurred with later models, and the changeover date/VIN range is not specified in the wiring diagrams. If your 2002 was produced late in the year, it may actually have the later wiring. The easiest way to determine whether you have an early or late model car is to look at the fuse boxes.

Early model - On the front power distribution box, the outboard side is angled. The rear power distribution box is rectangular and is set at a 45 degree angle:






Late model - On the front power distribution box, the outboard side is NOT angled. The rear power distribution box is curved and tapered to wrap around the spare tire:





Also, please look at the shifter for the transmission.

On an early model, you'll have the 5 speed transmission. You'll see 2, 3, 4 on the left side of the J-gate. D is actually 5th gear.

On a late model, you'll have the 6 speed transmission. You'll see 2, 3, 4, 5 on the left side of the J-gate. D is actually 6th gear.

 

His sig says it's a 4.0 so we should be good.

Hopefully Steve can verify.

Did we ever determine what these were for?