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That Actron scanner does not read many modules and cannot tell you the fuel pressure.
The Elm 327 works well with the free Torque app on a smart phone to allow real-time monitoring of coolant temperature, fuel pressure, etc. At 4.99$US it's good value.
Where exactly are you located? Your location doesn't show up in your posts.
Oil, battery, and cel. Still on after installing fully charged battery. The alarm light on dash was not staying on when I tried to start the car 10 minutes ago.
It could be any of many things but guessing is usually costly so reading data is recommended.
Yeah Baby! +1 on that!
We're not sure what your experience level is, or what diagnostic and repair capabilities you have. But do please keep in mind this is a fairly simple problem, and it's a hard fault. It's not some intermittent fault that is difficult to pinpoint. If you had the car towed to any shop, they will run some basic test for fuel and spark, and quickly figure out why the car won't start. You could expect a phone call within a couple of hours that your car is ready.
Meanwhile, we're trying to diagnose your car long-distance. It's a slow process with lots of back and forth. I highly, highly suggest you procure some type of scanner. There are plenty of inexpensive models available, and one will unlock a wealth of data for a proper diagnosis. Nowadays, a simple scanner should be part of anybody's basic toolkit, much like a set of wrenches and sockets.
I highly doubt you've got some exotic failure of some expensive component. Most likely, it's something simple like a bad pump or a failed sensor. Heck, I don't think we've even looked at fuses yet. There are several relays that could be at fault, too.
The $64,000 Question: How deep do you want to dig? Say for example we figure out the pump is bad. Not a huge deal, but not the simplest repair, either. Are you prepared to get involved to that level, or would you be taking it to a shop? Are you comfortable with a multimeter, taking voltage and resistance readings at various locations? What about jumpering across a relay for testing? Not trying to bust your chops, just trying to get an idea of some further steps to recommend and what you're comfortable doing.
It's all guesswork until the fuel pressure is known.
Preach it, brother! Can I get an "Amen"?
IIRC, there's no test fitting on 2003+ models for checking fuel pressure at the injector rail. This makes it very important to beg, borrow, or steal a scanner to get a pressure reading.
While waiting for your scanner to arrive (note the subtle way I inferred you must get one ), there are a few things you can do in the meantime. So far we don't even know if this is an ignition or fuel problem. Please note none of these things are repairs, and are only means to isolate the root cause for eventual repair.
1) Listen for the fuel pump when you first turn the key to Run (not Start). The pump runs briefly to pressurize the injector rail before starting. Lift up the rear seat bottom to help hear the pump. I think there are two latches at the front of the seat bottom. Slide them to the side (?) and then raise the seat bottom. Close the doors and windows, and turn off the radio and HVAC to make the cabin as quiet as possible. Turn the key from Off to Run (not Start). If the pump runs as commanded, you will hear it for a few seconds. This doesn't mean the pressure is reaching the injectors, but is a good sign. If no sound, you will need to figure out if the pump has failed or is not receiving the command, including blown fuses or failed relays.
2) Test to see if the ignition is working, using aerosol Mechanic-In-A-Can, aka starting fluid. But first, raise your right hand and repeat after me:
"I do solemnly swear to follow these instructions exactly."
Even the name "starting fluid" is a misnomer. We're NOT trying to actually start the engine, and don't expect it to run on its own. We're only using this stuff for troubleshooting, to see if the ignition is working, and nothing more. It should be called "troubleshooting fluid" for our purposes.
Remove the air filter and spray a quick burst into the intake tube, about 3 seconds maximum. Hand the can to an athletic helper and tell him to run away as fast as possible. (The idea is you can only try a SINGLE 3-second burst of spray, and will not be able to keep trying until you blow off the intake manifold.) While your helper is running away, turn the key to Start. If the ignition system is working properly, the engine will run briefly until this alternate fuel source is consumed. If the engine responds, this confirms the ignition system is working, and the problem is an undetermined issue with fuel delivery.
Just a note about the fuel pressure port?
If you have one it will be on the passenger side of the engine at the rear of the fuel rail.
I think your car does have one as my old 2005 STR did. We do know Jaguar stopped putting the Schrader valves on the later engines and several 2006 car owners have posted about this.
Try what Karl suggested with the starting fluid and report back.
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Just a note about the fuel pressure port?
If you have one it will be on the passenger side of the engine at the rear of the fuel rail.
I think your car does have one as my old 2005 STR did.
That would be awesome if so equipped. Poke around under the hood in the vicinity of the fuel rail. The fitting looks like the valve stem on a tire. A reading with a mechanical test gauge would do two things:
1) Confirm the actual fuel pressure
2) Confirm the accuracy of the fuel pressure sensor, as reported by the scanner
Ok, I just got the elm 327 and downloaded the torque app, but it’s saying I have to pay for a subscription to use the scanner…
Is there a free app that’s works well with the elm327?
Or should I pay for the subscription to torque?
That app is only $5 and well worth the price. But as JagV8 said above there is a free version too.
The thing that stands out and makes Torque Pro so valuable is the ability to add custom PIDS. We have a special setup for Jaguars courtesy of some fine forum members. This opens up an entire world of service stuff. Like a REAL engine temperature read out!
I have added some special MB PIDS too which allowed me to monitor transmission oil temperature in real time while I was changing the fluid. Working on a friends E350 and having the transmission temperature in large digits on my tablet which is sitting safely on my tool box while I am covered in transmission fluid and trying to fill a smoking hot car from underneath is really wonderful!!
I made a custom dashboard with only one large gauge - Transmission Fluid Temperature.
Never used either of those so can't help.
Did the ELM327 come with any software? They usually do and it won't be very good but it should at least let you connect to the car and prove the ELM327 is working OK.
What does your phone say under the BT settings? I have to mess around a bit with that sometimes.
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I have an iPhone and it says not compatible when I tried to connect via Bluetooth. I was checking out the elm327 on YouTube and they’re saying it’s best to have an android tablet to pair and use exclusively for the torque app/elm327…
), there are a few things you can do in the meantime. So far we don't even know if this is an ignition or fuel problem. Please note none of these things are repairs, and are only means to isolate the root cause for eventual repair.
