Thanks. Will do. I’ll be back when I get the correct scanner. Thanks for all the information everyone. Happy New Year

My blue jag V8 ☝🏼
🎊

 

Apple don't seem to like Bluetooth. Makes no sense.

 

Finally got the torque lite app to work on this old android phone. I ordered the WiFi elm327, but haven’t received it yet. What’s the remedy for the open loop just a simple temperature sensor?

 

If it is showing values which are wrong, yes.

(Very rare.)

 

The “remedy” is to figure out why the engine won’t start, correct that, and then warm up the engine.

What you’re seeing is not necessarily a fault. It’s a normal status for a cold engine. It would be a problem if the engine was warm, but that’s not the case.

Even if that was a fault, it would not prevent the engine from starting.

 

Is the instrument cluster test mode reliable at all for live data?

 

ECT & fuel level

Just use OBD - it reports what the car uses!!

 

I just purchased a volt reader and I’m checking fuses. So far I’ve found at least seven fuses that need to be replaced.

 

Fuses that didn’t indicate power according to volt reader: trunk fuse location: F42,47,50,52. Engine bay: F17, 18,19,20,35,36,37,38.

 

So I checked fuses with key on and they all seemed to work. I noticed a humming coming from throttle body,could this be a calibration thing going on? Or could it be a different issue? Also if certain fuses do not seem to be getting power could that be an indicator or a bad sensor/relay???

 

Info I just pulled from torque app: vac. In .hg 3.648, Load 58, Coolant 12.0, fuel pressure 0.0.

 

fuel pressure 0.0!!

 

All right! Finally making some progress in the new year. Time to figure out why you have zero fuel pressure.

The service manual has a good troubleshooting guide. This particular pinpoint test is in response to certain codes being flagged, but it should also work for this situation. Scroll down to page 2392 of the PDF and do Pinpoint test A:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...M-Workshop.pdf

The first step is an audible check of the fuel pump relay. That will be R15 in the trunk. For such checks, I suggest placing your finger directly on the relay while a helper cycles the key. Be careful because I think other relays will also click at the same time, so make sure not to be fooled by adjacent relay actuating. I do not care to discuss how I know this.

That pinpoint test will reference certain connectors and pins. You can find them here, see figure 03.4 for the fuel pump:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...al%20Guide.pdf

 

With the guesswork behind us now, it's most likely the fuel pump is seized.

Remove the rear seat lower cushion and the fuel pump module is under the plastic cover on the RH side of the vehicle.

 

Could it be a clogged fuel filter? I did pull a code P0191 a couple weeks back cleared it and it went away. However when I did remove the injector pressure sensor almost no fuel came out, does this indicate a clogged fuel filter? Also in the workshop manual is says to first change out fuel filter when trying to resolve P0191 fault.

 

Could one or more of any faults. Maybe mud daubers somehow got inside your fuel lines and built a nest. Maybe some punk kids siphoned every last drop of fuel from the tank. Maybe aliens stole your fuel pump one night to repair their space ship (all the part stores were closed so late). Many possibilities, some more likely than others.

How to determine the fault? I'm averse to work and getting dirty. A person could gamble on a new fuel filter, but note my previously stated aversion to work and dirt. For a fuel filter, you've got to jack up the car, remove a wheel, remove the liner, and then wear some fuel. This in direct contradiction to everything for which I stand, or actually sit in my case, as in a comfy chair far from work and dirt. Myself, I'd most likely start with the relay click and voltage tests mentioned earlier. Those are so easy, they don't really count as work, with minimal danger of getting dirty.

 

You can replace the fuel filter first if that's the direction you want to go since it must be replaced along with the fuel pump if the fuel pump has failed.

Or, you can remove the rear seat lower cushion and fuel pump cover to determine if the pump has power and if it starts when the ignition is turned to the ON position. If the pump does not start, you can swap relays around to eliminate the relay being the cause. The fuel pump is controlled by the PCM with input from the ignition switch and the CKP. You can use a voltmeter to read the voltage in and out of the fuel pump connection. The PCM controls the earth side of the circuit.

If the electrical circuit is functioning correctly, then the only remaining piece of this puzzle is the fuel pump has seized. A seized fuel pump is quite common on the X200/X202.

 

So to the the pin test do you need a multimeter? Also I still have battery light on, oil light on, and check engine light…

 

Yes. Need a recommendation? Lots of good meters available, at quite reasonable prices.

In the meantime, you can still do the click test of the relay. No equipment needed for that, other than a finger to place on the relay, and a helper to turn the key.

One of the next steps had you check for voltage to the pump. Without a meter, you can still listen for the sound of the pump running. When you first turn the key to Run, the pump should run briefly to pressurize the fuel rail. If you can hear the pump, then you know it's getting power and can safely skip that voltage check for now. If you don't hear it run, you'd have to investigate further to determine whether the pump has failed or it's not getting power.


This is normal with the key on but the engine not running.

 

Is this the Schrader valve? Is this another way to monitor fuel pressure?