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That is low. You're in a cool climate, but I think that when the engine is fully warm you should be seeing the coolant temps vary betwen the upper 190s and maybe 205-210°F. It could be that your CTS is faulty, or more likely your thermostat is stuck partially open, which can lead to rich running and might cause failure to enter closed loop fueling.
It could be that your CTS is faulty, or more likely your thermostat is stuck partially open, which can lead to rich running and might cause failure to enter closed loop fueling.
Shouldn't there be a DTC code for failure to enter closed loop after X amount of time? IIRC, there are different codes for various potential causes, be it low coolant temp, no MAF data, etc.
The recorded temp doesn't seem that bad. Maybe a little low, but not bad enough to inhibit closed loop. Am thinking my '02 V6 enters closed loop within 30 seconds of a cold start, but don't quote me on that. Just thinking if his car is not entering closed loop, we are missing a piece of the puzzle. Maybe he's not running it long enough to trigger a relevant code?
Shouldn't there be a DTC code for failure to enter closed loop after X amount of time? IIRC, there are different codes for various potential causes, be it low coolant temp, no MAF data, etc.
P0128 is a common code for a stuck-open thermostat, but in the Jaguar ECM implementation, the coolant has to remain below 180°F to trigger the code. I've seen lots of partially stuck-open thermostats that allowed the coolant to exceed this temp and didn't trigger a DTC, but the engine was still running too cold.
But you and xalty may very well be right that we're missing an important clue.
Here's a question for Wrenchead: Have you noticed that your fuel economy is reduced?
That is low. You're in a cool climate, but I think that when the engine is fully warm you should be seeing the coolant temps vary betwen the upper 190s and maybe 205-210°F. It could be that your CTS is faulty, or more likely your thermostat is stuck partially open, which can lead to rich running and might cause failure to enter closed loop fueling.
That reading was at idle in the driveway. No load. It does go into closed loop afterwards.
P0128 is a common code for a stuck-open thermostat, but in the Jaguar ECM implementation, the coolant has to remain below 180°F to trigger the code. I've seen lots of partially stuck-open thermostats that allowed the coolant to exceed this temp and didn't trigger a DTC, but the engine was still running too cold.
But you and xalty may very well be right that we're missing an important clue.
Here's a question for Wrenchead: Have you noticed that your fuel economy is reduced?
P0128 is a common code for a stuck-open thermostat, but in the Jaguar ECM implementation, the coolant has to remain below 180°F to trigger the code. I've seen lots of partially stuck-open thermostats that allowed the coolant to exceed this temp and didn't trigger a DTC, but the engine was still running too cold.
But you and xalty may very well be right that we're missing an important clue.
Here's a question for Wrenchead: Have you noticed that your fuel economy is reduced?
Never been great, 15 mpg in the city, 29 on the hwy
Shouldn't there be a DTC code for failure to enter closed loop after X amount of time? IIRC, there are different codes for various potential causes, be it low coolant temp, no MAF data, etc.
The recorded temp doesn't seem that bad. Maybe a little low, but not bad enough to inhibit closed loop. Am thinking my '02 V6 enters closed loop within 30 seconds of a cold start, but don't quote me on that. Just thinking if his car is not entering closed loop, we are missing a piece of the puzzle. Maybe he's not running it long enough to trigger a relevant code?
I'll time to see how soon it takes to get to closed loop this weekend
I'll time to see how soon it takes to get to closed loop this weekend
Put on my K &N filter back on to run the car longer outside. From open loop to closed loop takes about 15 seconds. Fuel trims were better starting at -10 short term and after running for a half hour temp was at 195°F and short term trim was 0. Can't believe that having an open intake vs K &N made such a difference in the trims.
Now back to the brake issue I guess.
Thinking of replacing the booster as brakes still feel wooden. There are electrical connectors on the booster. I know the right hand one is a brake pedal positioning sensor.
What is the left hand one for?
Hard time finding a replacement.
Any sources? Dealer here in Canada wants $2K.
Thanks everyone for the input on the trims.
There are electrical connectors on the booster. I know the right hand one is a brake pedal positioning sensor.
What is the left hand one for?
Here's the schematic for the booster, from the Electrical Guide, which you can download at jagrepair.com, a website hosted by our member Gus:
I don't know where you could find a new booster. A good salvaged one might be your only option. If the diaphragm has failed, you may be able to have it rebuilt. It was probably made by one of the major brake system OEMs like Ate or TRW.
Here's the schematic for the booster, from the Electrical Guide, which you can download at jagrepair.com, a website hosted by our member Gus:
I don't know where you could find a new booster. A good salvaged one might be your only option. If the diaphragm has failed, you may be able to have it rebuilt. It was probably made by one of the major brake system OEMs like Ate or TRW.
