Hi all. Still struggling to get my s-type to indicate it’s ready for an emissions test. Two test won’t complete. (Control and Evap). At the suggestion of jagv8, I got a better OBD II - I got the iCarSoft lr v2.0, which’s shows me pending codes (my other just showed stored codes). Each time I follow the drive cycle from the pdf that jag V8 shared, I see the P0601 pending. I think it’s from longer cycle - maybe engine warm-up? I’m not accelerating hard during the cycle. I’m guessing it never posted because in between the drive cycle I’m doing short idle runs on the driveway while I’m messing with other things
anyway, searching here I saw someone in the past had a P0601 which was resolved with a new intake manifold gasket. Someone noticed that left and right trim were fairly different, and it seemed to fix it. This was the case with mine - I noticed short-term trims were off on bank 1, and when I took the manifold off, the gaskets were toast on that side. Replaced (both) the gaskets and replaced the MAP sensor while the manifold was off and it was easy to access. In my case, no beans though - still get a “pending” P0601

any clues on what I should check next? The MAP sensor is outputting sensible values (at least from what I can tell). The pressure goes down when the revs go up - which makes sense to me. What should the values be at idle? At 2k rpm?

the car is a 2005 S-type sport 4.2l

cheers

 

P0601 or P0106?

If P0106 pray your battery is failing as the BARO sensor is inside the PCM I think.

If battery OK I think you may need to take the PCM out in case it's wet/etc.

 

I don’t have a lot of time to work on the jag, but I was back out there today - thought I’d capture some data from the car to check if the values are right or not. I did see one thing that really worries me

to start with, at least today when I ran it the “pending” code was a p0108, and the description from the reader was “manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure sensor circuit too high”. I put those values into the “live data”, and it showed the MAP at 33 kPa / 0.92V at idle, and barometric pressure sensor of 3.98V (it didn’t show that as kPa). If they’re using the same scale, then it would be 142.76 kPa - which is pretty high (should be ~101). Not quite sure how realistic it is to do that

Readings at idle

The “new” thing I noted is that the VIN retrieved from the scanner doesn’t match the VIN on the car. The scanner is returning a 3.0 S-type VIN. is Is that “VIN read” function reliable? Has a previous owner replaced the ECU? We’ve had the car about 5 years and we haven’t replaced the ECU. Would a 3.0 ECU fit / work with the 4.2 engine? Could it have been a 3.0 reprogrammed to run a 4.2, but for some reason they left the old VIN?

it seems like a weird finding - although I cannnot guarantee that the P0108 hasn’t been lurking all along, it has cleared the emissions testing a couple of times

 

Map value in vacuum is what i use at idle. Say baro is 30mm at idle fully warmed up no ac on the map should read 10 to 12 mm. That would be 18 to 20 intake vacuum with a steady needle. That is good for a car of our ages and miles. My icarsoft i930 reads those 2 pids in mm/hg ing obd2 mode

 

I have fought getting these set and sometimes they are a real bear!

Attached is a TSB from Jaguar just because they are so hard to set sometimes. Note the very specific conditions that the car is looking for. I found I needed someplace without traffic so I could drive the car as required. The long coast down is especially hard to do if any traffic is around.

That sensor is pretty cheap and I would just replace it.
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Hey, thanks both. I’m pretty sure I have an iCarSoft 830, and I can’t find those pids in obdII.

I did replace the MAP sensor. It’s the BARO sensor I’m wondering about now. Jag V8 thought it was integral to the ECM. I guess I might have to dismantle that to see if it’s damaged or wet

i do see the correct VIN in OBD mode, so I’m a little relieved

 

Have you searched the workshop manual? Link near the bottom of this page:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Working from my tablet, so can't view the huge PDF myself right now. But do a Control-F search for P0106 and P0108. That should lead you to some pinpoint tests for those codes, and the location, too.

Make sure you're in the correct section for your engine type. The manual covers all models.

 

My section (for the v8 4.2L VIN range M45255 -> N52047 basically says “concern with Barometric (HAC) sensor”, then for possible source it says “Barometric sensor within the ECM”, and for Action it says “ECM internal fault. Please make sure part is not on any prior authorization before replacing”. Which is pretty brutal

seems like next step is to pull the ECM and either look for someone to repair it, or just take it apart and see if anything’s obviously blown. Downside being I wouldn’t know a barometric pressure sensor from a flux capacitor

deeper into the rabbit hole I go

I do appreciate the help. Thanks

 

105 is map
106 is baro, needs an ecm. easy job

 

Exactly (BARO is inside the PCM case).

 

hey, xalty. I’m currently getting a 108, and I see that key-on, engine-off my MAP is outputting 5V. According to a pdf on the 16-bit ECM, the ECM will output 108 when it sees 5V for more than .5 of a second (I think that’s what it said).

Is 108 generally MAP or BAR?

also, with the ECM - can I just get a used one from a junker and throw it in, or does it need to be programmed? I guess it would need to be in the same VIB range, if something changed mid 2005. Has anyone ever replaced / repaired BARO, or is that a lost cause?

 

I was hoping somebody else would chime in, but am pretty sure some VIN-specific programming is required.

IIRC, the early models cannot be reprogrammed to another VIN, so only a new module can be installed for those years. Don't hold me to it, but I think it's possible to swap in a used module on 2003+ cars as long as you have the capability to reprogram it.

If you don't have the equipment for any programming that may be required, a better option may be to send out your existing module for repair.


Call me Mr. Vegas, but I'd at least want to take a look inside the existing module. If not too difficult to remove the cover, please post a picture and hopefully we can figure out which component is the baro sensor. You might get lucky and find a part number on it from some vendor. The baro sensor would probably stand out as it would look different from standard electronic bits such as resistors and IC chips, and there would only be one.

Another possibility is the baro sensor itself is fine, but a related capacitor has failed. In my limited experience, a bulging or swollen capacitor is a fairly common failure with circuit boards. Here's a good link showing some examples you might find with a close visual inspection:

https://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/


Take a close look for cold solder joints, too. A normal solder joint should have a glossy appearance. If you see a dull or grainy appearance, there's a good chance the solder joint has cracked. A magnifying glass will help with this inspection. Here's a similar problem as found on the instrument cluster on early models, just to give an idea of what you might find. Note the original poster also found a swollen capacitor in addition to a cold solder joint:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ype-faq-45129/


One last possibility, and this is kind of a long shot: The ECM case would have some sort of external vent to allow the internal baro sensor to properly read ambient air pressure. Make sure this vent isn't plugged with debris, if a bug build a nest, etc. Not extremely likely, but quick and easy to rule out. Not sure a plugged vent would even cause the same code, but who knows...

 

Talk to an outfit called moduleexperts. Google them. When i had abs issues they were very helpful. They service practically all modules