Hang in there Jimmy. I feel for you - nothing like having to do the same fixes multiple times. Could be faulty parts right out of the box. That happened to me last year after I replaced my S-Type's leaking top radiator coolant hose assembly (about $70 on amazon.com and made by URO, supposedly a decent supplier). The new hose assembly began leaking (actually, a very tiny seepage) at a couple of the rubberized joints within days. Had to go back in and do the job all over again after sending the faulty hose assembly back to the supplier and receiving a replacement hose assembly from them. I'm still not happy with it and went looking for this hose assembly from Jaguar (XR854920) even though I knew it would probably be twice the cost of the URO hose assembly. My local Jaguar parts department told me that Jaguar has discontinued selling it....

Good luck with your continuing efforts and I hope you finally get the oil leaks identified and fixed this time. These cars can be aggravating as hell....

 

+1 for BG44K it really is good. even if it doesnt fix issue it does help injectors and fuel lines.
I would be angling for an EVAP issue since it comes and goes, seem to recollect that the canister pulses at certain speed/revs and time.
Worth trying a new gas cap? they are pretty cheap.

 

Aggravating to say the least, Jon. This is hands down, the most unreliable, problem plagued car I've ever owned in my life, and I've had close to 20 cars in my 30 years of driving!

Thanks for the kind, encouraging words!

I keep having to fix these nuisances, meanwhile the rest of my "to do" list ( of which is lenghty), never gets done! Suspension issues, etc, etc. ... slowly becoming not worth it...

Ok rant over! Back to business...

 

Replaced gas cap recently for my other codes which thankfully haven't recurred... P0442 & P0456

 

Hi Jimmy, did you put a blob of RTV at the timing cover junctions, both sides?

Also, hopefully you didn't overtighten the bolts.

Just my $0.02

Thanks - Anthony

 

yes, as per JTIS, and used Motorcraft sealant.

Tightened all bolts as per JTIS sequence and torque

 

Hey Jon, don't know if this helps, but that hose part# has been superceded to part# JLM21497; that's according to one of my genuine Jaguar parts suppliers - oemdiscountcarparts.com (aka Jaguar Land Rover of Columbia SC). They list that part on their site for $117.62.

Here's the link:
https://oemdiscountcarparts.com/part...&siteid=218637

BTW - For anyone looking for genuine Jag parts like gaskets, etc at less than what local dealers charge, these guys are excellent. It's a brick and mortar Jag/Rover dealership parts department selling online.

Hope this helps. Sorry if off-topic.
Steve

 

Just wanted to remind everyone the forum has a Jaguar dealer that gives forum members 15% off list price and free shipping on orders $25 and above.

Try Jaguar Greenville in Greenville SC. 864-288-7575.
Be sure to mention you are on the Jaguar forums to get the discount. I have used them several times with great service!
.
.
.

 

Off topic welcome, at least for me!

Its like a normal conversation.

If I can get OEM Jag parts at a discount, I'm all ears!

With some vendors you think you're getting discounted OEM parts, then you receive aftermarket instead!

Not a huge fan of aftermarket, unless the difference in price is huge! For example, I'll take aftermarket front upper control arms priced at $120 US each compared to $600 each from Jaguar!

Thanks for the parts leads, guys!

BTW MIL on again after clearing it yesterday, getting worse. I guess its a trip to the Indy, too cold to work on it here outside!!!

 

I had replaced the upper and vertical control arms, steering rack and hubs on my 2000 SType with aftermarket units and had only one problem and that was a dry lower ball joint that came with the vertical control arm.

Back to the topic, have you found the problem yet?

 

I have not found the problem yet. Cleared code yesterday, back on today with restricted performance.

Gotta order the 44K yet, been busy with the Holidays.

I found where the EVAP canister line that bends around the engine cover was starting to rub out, but doesn't look like its all the way through.

I also found three oil leaks on the cam covers, however small. Two on bank 1, one on bank 2.

 

Any update on this?

 

Not yet, weather has been bad here, but hopefully going to meet up with abonano this weekend and sort some things out...

Still have the MIL on, and occasional Restricted Performance warnings.

I'll post an update soon...

 

Guys,

Jimmy 68 & I tackled this one together today.

I took a crack at this as being a fresh set of eyes before hooking up IDS.

All vacuum hoses looked good but I noticed the PCV hose to the TB was very loose in the rubber mounting. Funny thing is that rubber fitting is fairly new according to Jimmy 68.

I placed a pressure clamp on that end. Now it's sealed tight and we put a worm clamp on the other end of the hose as I noticed that rubber end had lots of stress cracks and is in need of replacement.

I captured the flash data for the P0174 code via IDS but cannot upload the pics via mobile.

I'll try to get them up tomorrow.

Cleared the codes. We drove the car around town for a while, 3 drive cycles. Reconnected IDS, no codes set, none pending...so far so good. Jimmy 68 reports smoother idle and improved MPG results and most important no restricted performance.

We shall see if that PCV hose fitting loose was the cause of the lean codes being set.

This week will be the true test..

PS - Great seeing you today Jimmy 68...

 

Hopefully fixed, but you need 3 warm ups, not 3 drive cycles.

 

Driving home from work today will be the third warm up cycle so we'll see.

When I get home today I'll hook up my OBDII software to see if anything's pending.

Car feels and runs great. On my 41 mile highway ride home, I averaged 32.2 mpg, something I've never seen before with this car.

I purchased a new OEM rubber fitting ( boot?) nearest the TB last year, and on the PCV end I need to order a new one.

Thanks yet again Anthony for offering your expertise ( and equipment...IDS etc) to help me out! Sometimes a second set of eyes really makes a difference. MUCH appreciated and great seeing you yesterday too!

 

Ideally have your own simple OBD tool so you can check live data (such as fuel trims) and pending codes. Clone elm327 can be iffy with pre-2002.5MY cars, though (bad clones exist).

 

I have an OBDCOM unit I purchased new two years ago that hooks up to my laptop. Thats what I've using to report my trims, freeze frame data, clearing MILs, pending codes, etc like in this thread!

 

Good - but are the values now OK? Good trims and no pending codes even?

 

See post #56

Planning on checking when I get home from work this afternoon.