My OBD tool also shows fuel pressure. it reads 55.3 psig. is this normal? rpm 1344. Mass Air Flow 0.7 #/min., TPS 6.7 It does read current data only when the Restricted Performance/check engine light comes on conditions.

thanks in advance.

 

What is MY and engine?

Number of kilometres/miles?

What are STFTs?

 

MY2004, 110,000 miles, STFT 25 which is what is triggering the engine light. (IMO)

 

Not sure if you have 3.0 or 4.0, but since you have both P0171 and P0174, check for vacuum leak(s) at inlet manifold, especially plastic breather hoses and other such connections.

Do not operate the vehicle under conditions that cause the MIL to flash as catalyst damage is occurring.

 

its a 3.0 sorry for missing that earlier. I am thinking that its either fuel or vacuum leaks like you mentioned. Just trying to eliminate the fuel side since I have that data.

What does the MIL stand for?

 

Do an advanced search with the terms "color coded" under the "S Type" sub directory by " joycesjag". It will enlighten you. Sorry my phone won't allow me to post a direct link.

You are welcome in advance!

Here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-52720/

 

Malfunction Indicator Light, often referred to as the 'check-engine-light' or 'cel'.

 

Since you have the 3.0 litre, search for the information suggested by joycesjag as there are many areas the V6 can have vacuum leaks, such as the IMT o-rings and the crankcase ventilation system elbow below the lower inlet manifold.

Use the search function on this forum as all these topics have been previously covered in depth, some with good photos.

 

See if this information helps. When I was searching for my vacuum leak I used throttle body cleaner about 2 cans and sprayed around as the engine was running and when it would stumble I was on or near the problem.

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/P0171.pdf

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/P0171.pdf

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Are you able to hear any vacuum leaks, especially when the engine is cold? The IMT valve O-rings will generally leak when the car is first started in the morning, and will go away as the intake warms up. They are the most common vacuum leak on the 3.0L V6, however I have seen on the later model 3.0L where the vacuum pipe from the fuel pressure regulator plugs onto the back of the intake lose their grip and it comes off. As stated above, you can use brake clean to spray down the intake while running, and see if the idle speed changes, and if you can watch fuel trim, you should see that change as well, if there is a leak and can't hear it. Check all the other plastic connections to the intake, and that the intake pipe from air filter box is tight. Otherwise it is possible that the MAF could be playing up, but on the V6, don't usually fail.

 

Used "joycesjag" diagram and instructions and found the brake booster line connection at the intake manifold was broke. Does anyone have a source for this part?

 

Any one of the forum sponsers would appreciate your business, so would JF.

 

When ordering the part, provide the VIN to ensure you receive the correct part as numbers are often superseded.

XR88658 is the vacuum line for earlier vehicles.

 

Got mine on eBay. Didn't replace the brass fitting just the clip.

http://r.ebay.com/lyYzkv

 

Just an update on my S type 2004 3.0 V6. Was getting ready to remove intake to find vacuum leak and replace gaskets, plugs, possibly coils when I started to remove the vacuum line to the PCV. The connector between the intake and the hard plastic line was completely dry rotted and had a hole in it about the size of a nickel. Replaced the connecting piece with some heavy duty hydraulic line with the correct ID and have not a problem since. $0.45 total cost and weeks of frustration. Thanks for all your help and giving the ideas to investigate and keeping me motivated.

 

You said "Do not operate the vehicle under conditions that cause the MIL to flash as catalyst damage is occurring"

Do you literally mean the MIL is flashing, as opposed to merely coming on? My wife's 07 S type (3.0 V6) set the code P071 this afternoon. She really needs to be able to drive it for a few more days before I can try to troubleshoot the thing. The MIL light is on, but not flashing.

Thanks

 

The codes caused my car to go into "restricted performance" which prevents the car from going above 3000 rpm. major problem if driving it very far. Intended to get you home or mechanic shop I guess. Damage to the CAT would end up being very $$. I did not post the potential damage to Cat, it was NBCat. You could contact him to learn more. I like you have other vehicles, so I parked mine until fixed, minus a couple of test drives as I fixed leaks in the system.

 

If the MIL is on, but not flashing, the vehicle can be driven, however, the fault(s) must be correct as soon as possible.

All DTCs are five places, P071 is missing a digit. Do you mean P0171 or P0174?

 

noticed this thread this morning and decided to see what people were saying. Many of the responders here have also been trying to help me with my "smog compliance help" thread on a 2005 s type 3.0. I wish I could have been able to find a vacuum leak, but so far nothing. Still working on mine. My observation is......0174 and 0171 are all over the place on the Jag forum and all over the place on other sites and forums. Sorry but I am so frustrated with technology. I miss the days of driving your car until it was not running right, idling rough etc, and then you simply went to the local parts store and bought a "tune up kit".. You younger guys wont even know what I'm talking about. But it consisted of this....spark plugs, an air filter, new points and a rotor, sometimes a condenser, sometimes spark plug wires, sometimes a distributer cap. That was it. You changed out these parts, properly gapped the plugs and points, changed your oil and you were running good for another year or so. Cost of kit was maybe $20.

These cars today are so complicated, we are forced into guessing games relying on the experiences of others and even the dealership service departments dont know what is wrong without running up thousands of dollars trial and error. I talked to local "Jaguar specific" repair shop in socal the other day, and he told me "you could leave the gas cap completely off, and it would not effect lean codes". Huh? this is directly contrary to everything I have read here and elsewhere that the gas cap plays a vital role in the various sensors. Sorry, just venting.

For you guys helping me on my thread, I'm not done yet. Please don't give up on "smog compliance help"

 

Sorry, I got lost in digits. I meant P0171. And thanks for the clarification on the "flashing" MIL issue. I guess I gotta RTFM with the owners manual again!