My 2005 STR threw a P0456 code and my mechanic cannot determine where the leak is. I already have replaced the gas cap three times now. Jaguar gave me a new cap a few months ago.. no go. I bought a new one from RockAuto.. still no go. The mechanic put a 3rd one on as well. He hopes this fixes it. I'm thinkin' it's not going to work.

The shop ran a $285 smoke test on the evap system and found zero leaks. The shop also charged me $95 to see the code that I already pulled myself using my scanguage. (P0456)

I'm getting a little tired of burning money to chase a stupid CEL that will fail my inspection which is due in a month. Any ideas on what I can tell my mechanic to check/do?

I asked him to check the vent/charcoal filter/check valve and he said the emissions control equipment is sealed in the tank so it shouldn't cause the code to trip.

Thanks in advance for your input!

 

nixx, I don't know if this will help but go here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ighlight=Po456 check out post #2, open the Adope attachment and scroll down about mid way to your code.

Thats all I've got for you

 

My 03 seams to have the same symptoms as yours.
I tested the gas cap and it was OK.
My CEL would stay off for a few days after I clear it, but come back.
I have not really gone deap into this yet, other than testing for what the code calls "emissions leak - minor" or something like that.
I'll let you know if I find anything, but it won't be very soon, I have till JUne to resolve it for my plate sticker.
PR

 

Ahhh. Thanks for the link! Great info!

 

You can maybe fix it yourself but otherwise I reckon you want a competent jag tech who'll have met this before when the cap has already been ruled out as the cause. They also have the OBD tool (IDS) that can open and close valves etc on demand while looking for the cause. I think AutoEnginuity MAY do that also but am not sure. Smoke test with a small leak is "optimistic" but particularly so if they couldn't exercise those valves etc.

It may be a stupid CEL but it's required by law. To change it you need to change the law. (Good luck on that!)

 

UPDATE:
Well, I don't know what the shop did (I asked and neither do they), but the CEL has cleared and hasn't come back on in a tank of fuel. Yay! Maybe they dislodged something or re-attached a hose (just guessing here) when they did the visual inspection and hooked up the smoke machine. They kept my old (3rd) gas cap on the car.. so that wasn't the culprit.

Anyways.. they did a once over on all the engine/tranny/suspension and said the car was in "fantastic shape"... so hopefully I will have many more miles ahead!

Thanks again for your advice!

 

And of course... I 'spoke' too soon. CEL came back on today. She's going back to the shop where they are going to replace a check valve in the engine bay near the throttle body. Another $175 for the part, plus labor.

 

Is it the same code?

 

Original code was P0456 "Very Small Evap" leak
Current code is P0442 "Small Evap" leak

So, technically it got a bit more of a leak. Still evaporative emissions related.

 

Back to needing a competent jag tech.

 

First is has nothing to do with competance. Ive smoke tested many a jags over the years and the only thing youll ever see on a smoke test is a large or gross leak. Small or very small leaks youll never see. And theyre never a gas cap. Gas cap are normally large and gross leaks. If i have someone that really wants to go after a small leak i tell them up front its gonna be a parts replacement mulitple visit issue. I start with the cheapest and what has shown to be the issue moreoften than not. Thats the fuel tank seals under the rear seat both sides. Theyre either round or flat depending on year and model. Then the cannister close valve, and then the purge valve. I have a 05 stype sitting in the back lot that needs a complete fuel tank since i found the leak on that 1 in the very top under the trans/propshaft tunnel. Thats not a serviceable part of the tank and its been here 3 months cause jaguar doesnt have a vender to make one yet. ....so my recommendation is quit spending money on the smoke test and code clearing at this point. Put tank seal in both side and lube well. Be prepared to move onto the next item without fuss if/when the light comes back on

 

I suspected something was wrong with the fuel tank since my 2005 STR was recalled for leaking fuel (you could smell the fuel all the time). They replaced my entire fuel tank supposedly. Jag flew some tech in to verify my car was affected by the recall as well. I bet they tore something when they put it back together. Thanks for the tips.

 

@Brutal - Er.... that WAS competent. Knowing a smoke test won't find a small or very small leak.... what else would you call it! Ditto knowing it won't be the gas cap (gee after 3 even I woulda figured it out).

@nixx - ahh, if it's related to a previous repair you probably got them where you want them (apart from the nuisance factor).

 

I wonder if checking the fuel tank seals is something I can do at home? gonna google..

BTW.. the fuel system recall I had done was: Recall ID # 06V418000 - FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE:STORAGE:TANK ASSEMBLY

Recall Date: OCT 31, 2006
Component: FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE:STORAGE:TANK ASSEMBLY
Model Affected: S-TYPE
Potential Units Affected: 13655
Recall Date:
OCT 31, 2006

Model Affected:
2005 JAGUAR S-TYPE

Summary:
SOME PASSENGER VEHICLES MAY HAVE FUEL TANKS IN WHICH THE FUEL DELIVERY MODULE (FDM), JET PUMP MODULE (JPM), AND/OR CLUSTER VALVE (CV) SEALS ARE NOT PROPERLY RETAINED IN THE FUEL TANK. THIS MAY RESULT IN ILLUMINATION OF THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL), OR A FUEL ODOR.

Consequence:
IF THE AMOUNT OF FUEL IS ABOVE THE FDM, JPM, OR CV APERTURES, FUEL MAY BE DISCHARGED ONTO THE GROUND. FUEL LEAKAGE IN THE PRESENCE OF AN IGNITION SOURCE COULD RESULT IN A FIRE.

Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE FUEL TANKS TO DETERMINE IF REVISED SEALS MAY BE USED TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE. IF NOT, DEALERS WILL THEN REPLACE THE ENTIRE FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY. DUE TO PROBLEMS IN OBTAINING THE REPLACEMENT FUEL TANKS, THE RECALL BEGAN ON JANUARY 29 THROUGH MARCH 30, 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT JAGUAR AT 1-800-452-4827.

Potential Units Affected:
13655

 

Thats doesnt meen thats not your problem. And you either replace them or dont bother. Its a pia to get that caps on correctly and without distorting the seals doing it. And you need a special tool to remove the caps and tighten them. You can lift out the rear seat bottom and uncover the tank below the carpet jute and black covers and inspect for fuel staining, it might have staining or not..... But you can do this at least. You can diy the caps but i dont know people level of ability so its hard to say. Something easy for me is a nightmare for others.
On the recall, some were for tank replacement. Some for seals and checking, again it depends on who did you recall mayb they did/didnt check correctly. Or maybe was fine when done but now is not??????

 

Thanks again Brutal. I've contacted the shop and they are going to keep the car for several days next week and check out the fuel system seals under the back seat.

I know this might not be the problem.. and understand that it could be another issue.. but it seems odd that my problem is related to an area of my car that was worked on by a dealership that I am highly suspicious of. This dealership forgot to put some majorly important bolts on my transmission once which locked me up one day.. they also forgot to put my under-tray back on my car after a service once.. and they also used a dirty rag that I wouldn't even wipe my hands off with to dry my car (scratched my paint from bumper to bumper). Granted.. they waxed and polished my car after I complained and that solved 99% of the scratches.

I now know how difficult it is to resolve an issue like this.. and the shop I am using is legitimately trying to help and they have gone out of their way to drive me to/from my home and they are good about communicating with me over the phone. I'll keep the thread updated for anybody else who may hvae this problem in the future.

 

Wait a second.. are you saying that one doesn't HAVE to fix this issue? Is there a workaround so I can pass emissions?

 

if you have a scanner and clear codes yourself, then drive untill the readiness monitors reset, useally a half tank of gas and go down the freeway 30 miles and turn around. then check readiness and if the monitors have reset(in Texas you can have only 1 not ready 2001 and up) without the check engine light coming on then go and immediatly get it inspected. Thats the work around. I seriously doubt its something the deasler did or it would have surfaced long before now. I meen we were doing that recall 2-3 yrs ago.

 

State laws vary. Some allow 1 or 2 monitors unset depending on MY of the car. Some allow a certain amount of effort ($$$) to make a pass. Etc. You can probably look your rules up somewhere - maybe the EPA site. Brutal will know cos he's same state as you AFAIK

 

UPDATE: The issue has been solved, I no longer have P0456 "very small evaporative emissions leak".

Firstly, I have to give major thanks to a local jaguarforums.com member mafioso for meeting up with me during a holiday week and helping me diagnose the problem with my car. I spent HUNDREDS of dollars with a local shop and they could not find the leak.. but mafioso was on the right track within minutes of opening my hood. Thank you Luigi.

Alrighty.. here is the issue.. I had a small crack in my Evaporative Emissions canister purge valve resonator.

The canister is poorly constructed and the edges seem to be easily cracked. Even my new canister looks a little shady on the edges. See the picture:



Jaguar does not sell this part by itself, but they do sell it with the evap purge valve along with a metal bracket. The Jag part # is XR830786. It cost me $99 at my local dealer.

This is basically what you receive (the pic is of my old broken one)



To remove and re-install this part is VERY easy. I can't believe the shop wanted to charge me several hours for this.

You simply un-clip the wire to the valve actuator, remove one hard-pipe vac line by pinching the release clips and pulling, and remove another vac line. Then,pull the unit off of the rubber bushings that suspend it in the air.. be careful to detach the last vac line which is a hard plastic clip pipe that is under the resonator. You're done.. now stick in the new one. (reverse the steps)



The 'kit' comes with a new metal mounting bracket.. but tha requires you to remove the bolts that hold your strut in place.. and I just didn't want to jack with that and have to re torque those down.. so I just removed the components and placed them onto my existing bracket. I used the new rubber bushings, though.

After the swap is done, reset your CEL.. go driving and make sure the light doesn't come back on. You can only "test" the evap system when there is between 1/4 and 3/4 of fuel on board.

I went to a flat piece of road.. accelerated briskly to 50 MPH.. held it for 2 min or so.. then let off the gas and let the car coast to a stop. I would idle for 4 minutes. After nearly 1 tank of gas and no CEL.. I knew it was fixed. I also went and got my car inspected today and the evap emissions test showed the car had done it's self check and it was PASS.