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I have a 2007 Jaguar STR and Restricted Performance keeps popping up (code P2601 along with P0430). I recently bought a new cataylic converter because my bank 2 is failing. I just wanted to know if this is the right coolant pump needed to fix code p2601?
Last edited by Dwayne Mason; Aug 24, 2021 at 12:05 PM.
is the right coolant pump needed to fix code p2601?
No, that is the main coolant pump, driven by the serpentine belt. Code P2601 refers to a problem with the electrically-driven intercooler pump, found only on supercharged models. This is NOT to be confused with the auxiliary coolant pump (also electrically-driven) for the heating system, found on all V8 models.
This thread has more details on the intercooler pump, including some part numbers:
Before ordering a new pump, be sure to check fuse F36 in the Front Power Distribution box under the hood. If that is good, try swapping relay R9 (also under the hood) with a known-good relay of the same size. I think R11 (front fog lamps) would be a good donor.
Details of the intercooler pump here, figure 03.6:
No, that is the main coolant pump, driven by the serpentine belt. Code P2601 refers to a problem with the electrically-driven intercooler pump, found only on supercharged models. This is NOT to be confused with the auxiliary coolant pump (also electrically-driven) for the heating system, found on all V8 models.
This thread has more details on the intercooler pump, including some part numbers:
Before ordering a new pump, be sure to check fuse F36 in the Front Power Distribution box under the hood. If that is good, try swapping relay R9 (also under the hood) with a known-good relay of the same size. I think R11 (front fog lamps) would be a good donor.
Details of the intercooler pump here, figure 03.6:
That's the thread with the part numbers and some aftermarket options. Sorry, I do not know which one will fit and/or work best. Hopefully somebody else can chime in.
Also check the main plug connection that has the pump wiring. On my 06 str it is on the passenger side around the wheel liner, viewable from underneath, or take the front tire off and peel the liner away some. Trace the wires from the pump and you will find it. It is in a spot that can get wet and corrode. That is what happened to me. In the workshop manual it is called the cooling modules. The fan wiring is also there and another plug connection. Without that pump working the intake temps will rise quickly and out of control, especially under boost until the ecm puts it in failsafe mode
Last edited by scottjh9; Aug 24, 2021 at 06:42 PM.
Also check the main plug connection that has the pump wiring...
Good suggestion.
I almost forgot, you can easily check the pump operation from relay R9 at the front power distribution box. With the ignition off, unplug the relay and momentarily connect a jumper between sockets #3 and #5. Something as simple as a paper clip would work. The pump should run. You should be able to easily hear it with the engine not running. IIRC, the sockets are not labeled but the prongs on the relay are. You will have to identify which socket is which from the labels on the relay.
If the pump doesn't run, check for battery voltage at socket #3 at all times. Socket #1 should have battery voltage when the ignition key is turned to the Run position.
If still no joy, check for continuity to ground from socket #5. This is reading through the brushes and armature of the intercooler pump. I don't know the exact specs, but it's probably around 2 or 3 ohms. If you see substantially more resistance than that, or a direct short to ground, unplug the pump connector. Judging by the picture in the manual, it should be fairly easy to access. Check for continuity from relay socket #5 to this connector. You should see a direct connection, a fraction of an ohm at most.
Don't forget to check fuse F36 in the front power distribution box. Also check F9, but if that one was bad, it would affect many other systems, including ignition.
Here is the exact error. Don't overlook that you could have a bad circuit, which could be related to heat that builds builds up too much resistance. I have had that problem with my O2 sensors and it was part of the circuit that needed repairing and would only happen in the summer. The original circuit showed higher resistance, but not over the threshold of the code, but the summer heat of Texas, would cause a code being thrown. Verify if the pump is running and if it is look along the circuit and do some pinpoint testing.
Tom in Dallas/Plano
P2601 (restricted performance )
