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I recently had some trouble with the reverse parking aid system on my '02 V6. The symptoms? When shifted into reverse, the speaker emitted a steady tone for about 3 seconds and the red light illuminated on the overhead switch. When backing up and approaching an obstacle, the speaker did not make any further sounds.
To troubleshoot the system, park in a quiet place on a level surface. Set the parking brake and chock the wheels. Turn the key to the run position, but not start. There's no need to have the engine running. Depress the brake pedal and shift into reverse. Remember, you've shifted out of park, so make sure to use the parking brake and tire chocks so the car doesn't roll. At the rear bumper, put your ear to each sensor and listen carefully. If you haven't worked 35 years around jet engines, you should hear a faint clicking if the sensor is good. If you hear nothing from any sensor, find yourself a handy young whippersnapper and have them check, as they can typically hear frequencies you can't.
I was home alone, so I used a Steelman Engine-Ear electronic stethoscope:
Like so many other parts on our cars, I figured these were sourced via Ford, but I couldn't find any definitive reference. I found a Dorman 684-029 was a perfect replacement, even though it wasn't listed as effective for an '02 S-Type. It was a $25 gamble that paid off:
Per Dorman, the direct Ford cross reference is 3F2Z-15K859-BA. If you want a genuine Ford part, that number should theoretically work. If you need a make/model, search for an '02 Ford Explorer.
Sorry, I don't have any info after VIN N13088.
New sensors come unpainted. I stopped at a local automotive paint supply house and they custom mixed a can of spray paint. Bring them your paint code and any paint shop can do it. Took 10 minutes and cost $30. Let them know you're working on a parking aid sensor in case some types of paint would interfere with the signal. Apply a light coat of paint to the end of the sensor before installation.
Have you ever replaced a parking aid sensor? I'd like to travel to Coventry, find the engineer responsible for the design, and work him over with a tube sock full of soap bars. (That's how we handled conflict in prison.) The sensor installation is a miserable design. Replacement should be as simple as changing a light bulb, but no... Per the service manual, you have to remove the entire bumper cover for access, which is no small task.
I was mildly lucky, as the failed sensor was at the outer position. You can snake one hand next to the muffler and barely reach the back of the outer sensors. I used a block of wood against the muffler to hold the bumper cover out for better access. The inner sensors? No idea, but they look pretty bad to reach.
Make sure to wear safety glasses, as you'll be working overhead. Expect lots of crud to fall down. Make sure the muffler is cool. I put the rear wheels up on ramps for more room underneath. Use a long screwdriver and your one hand to work the connector loose before removing the sensor. If you remove the sensor first, you won't have room for a second hand to remove the connector.
The sensor fits into an adapter which snaps into a hole in the bumper cover. In a perfect world, you should be able to pop out the adapter and sensor as a unit from the outside, and then disconnect the plug. No such luck. Here's an image, shamelessly stolen from eBay, showing an adapter:
If working with one hand, good luck releasing the sensor from the adapter. After trying for a few minutes inside the bumper cover, I gave up. Time for brute force and ignorance. I selected a socket slightly smaller than the sensor's outside diameter and applied some moderate percussion from the outside:
Three moderate taps and the sensor popped loose. I broke one of the locks, but the remaining lock was still sufficient to secure the new sensor. Expecting to break both locks, I planned to wrap tape around the sensor to create a friction fit, but this was not necessary.
Installation was anti-climatic. Pop the new sensor in place from behind. It's keyed, and can only go together one way. With your one available hand, reinstall the connector. Voila, you're back in business.
The part numbers listed above may be specific to early models, but the general principles should be applicable to all years. If you have a Ford or aftermarket part number for later models, please add it to this thread.
That's a great, informative, articulate, extremely jovial, entertaining and frustrating write up kr98664. Had me well amused!
Your talents are wasted in whatever your doing. You should be a writer!
Err, I dare say you may have used your free time at Her Majesty's Pleasure (Or should that be, 'Your Presidents Pleasure') to hone your writing skills quite effectively..
I will go out and test mine. I came a bit too close to one vehicle the other day.
My reverse speaker has started to sound a bit too melodious lately as well.. It's going to leave this earth for sure soon. I've yet to see if I can resuscitate it.
Seen the price of a new reverse speaker unit bearing the Jaguar logo? Even the Ford equivalent is like buying something with a box bearing Dior on it..
I'd say however you'd likely need to take the Palmolive bars over to Dearborn rather than Coventry.
Yes, Karl, we have all left Coventry meanwhile...
And I dare say that you'll find now instead a bunch of people from that nation in Coventry, which will overtake THIS WEEK China as most populous country in the world - that Country that brought you Tata and Tata-Jags...
But G'onya (good on you) for fixing your parking aid.
Last edited by Peter_of_Australia; Apr 26, 2023 at 07:55 AM.
That's a great, informative, articulate, extremely jovial, entertaining and frustrating write up kr98664. Had me well amused!
Your talents are wasted in whatever your doing. You should be a writer!
Um, as a longtime forum member, you must be aware it's considered poor form to encourage me like that. Causes my head to swell, and then I have trouble passing through a normal doorway. In extreme cases, my head swells so much it pushes against the keyboard anf a ken now longger tiep nurmallee...
There is easyest way for replacing pdc sensors. All i did is remove back lights and unplug the sensors. That works for the ones on the corners.
When doing this, it is prudent to check for leaks after replacing the lamp assembly; the rear lamp to body sealing is a notorious problem area for the trunk leaks on the S-type.
Hi Guys, I have a 2007 (Facelift). Does anyone know if removing the tail lamp assembly to replace an inner sensor will work on a Facelift model? I know, the official way is to remove the bumper cover, but that looks pretty time consuming. Thanks for any advice.
Parking Aid Sensor Replacement
