I posted up on the UK site late last night as I was stranded 135kms from home. I got back to my car from 48 hours away. It was parked over the weekend while I was travelling. Car started up totally fine and drove maybe one mile then the lights on the dash went out and I got a multiple failure warning in the cluster.

Brake lamps out
Side repeaters out
Tail lamps out
Brake Lamps out
Boot open

WTH? So I pull over and shut the car off. Thinking a restart will solve the issue. Now the car will not start. There is NO cranking. The lights just go out except for the airbag when I try to turn it over.

Working:

Windows roll up and down. Sunroof too
Ignition in II makes all the dash lights come on. Security light blinks
Fog lights work
Radio works

Not working:

Mirrors
Interior lights
Locks
Hazards
Headlamps
Tail lamps
Trunk lights
DSC


Indeed the PATS light is flashing but no DTC codes. I'm almost 100 miles away from my spare set of keys and I'm at a total loss as to why my lamps all went out the then PATS went into lockdown. I finally managed to disconnect the battery but with no luck. I left it disconnected overnight and I walked to a motel.


Reading here and the UK site I am inclined to think it's a battery issue. I've had over 3 trouble free years on this battery but the car did start just fine.

This is the best advice I have found so far:

"In the event that this does occur and the "THEFT" light is flashing, use the following procedure to restore vehicle functionality.

1. Turn the key to the "ON" position, but do not attempt to start the vehicle.
2. The "THEFT" light will begin flashing rapidly (twice a second). After about 60 seconds, the "THEFT" light will stop flashing rapidly and begin a sequence of slow flashes (usually 1 blink, followed by 6 blinks).
3. Turn the key to the "OFF" position and completely remove the key from the ignition and hold at least two feet away from the steering column for 30 seconds.
4. Insert the key and turn to the "ON" position. Wait for the normal engine checking procedure to take place. The "THEFT" light should no longer be flashing. At this point you should be able to start the vehicle.

If, after completing the above reset procedure, your vehicle still won’t start and the theft light is blinking rapidly, check to ensure that the PCM is not disabled by going to the Diagnostic Menu of your programmer and then checking for any DTCs.

If the PCM is not disabled, it should respond with a P1260 DTC (Theft Detected / Vehicle Immobilized) along with any other possible DTCs that may be stored. If this is the case, turn the key to the "OFF" position and remove the ground (-) battery cable (from both batteries if your vehicle is equipped with two) for a period of ONE HOUR to allow the theft codes to clear. Re-attach the cables and attempt to start the vehicle.

If the PCM is disabled and the programmer is not able to ready any DTCs or other data from the PCM, you may try restoring the vehicle back to the original stock calibration. If this still doesn't work, you'll need to contact your programmer vendor for further assistance in troubleshooting the reason for the no-start."


Any ideas?

 

Walked back to the car and got it to spit out a PATS code 11. It only tells me that the PATS system is not getting power. Just like all the other failed systems on the car.

There is a massive electrical fault somewhere, there are too many systems down to say "check a fuse". The list of fuses affected is over 10 long.

Floored me to think that a failure such as this would even take out the headlamps and the hazards.

 

cosworth, though I couldn't say beyond a reasonable doubt, but...to me it sure "sounds" like the battery is weak in one or more cells..."she'll start fine then....". Keep us updated after a new battery is installed.

 

The local supplier here takes batteries back so I'll buy one and see if it works.

It's a free try, I am such a cheap ******* - I'd rather spend the tow money on trying the battery. I'm still wary of this crazy battery behaviour that people talk about. I'm hoping that it is just a wacky battery.

 

Give "it" (battery) a shot and let us know.

 

PATS code 11 on the later cars (and quite possibly the earlier) is aka B1681 which IS a DTC but of course not stored in the PCM. The PCM is all most OBD tools access. There are (say) another 20 modules each of which may have DTCs. PATS fault probably stored in the ICM (inst cluster).

 

No DTCs in the PCM. It's a 2000. I even cleared the DTC RAM and tried to see if it would pull a code when jockeying the keys. Nope.

Battery will go in about 6 hours from now and I'll know then.

 

Exactly. PATS is not principally a PCM issue.

 

Let's put to bed this inflated myth about the battery being responsible for wacky electrical things.

Brand new battery did not solve anything. Car is too far from home and it's too cold out for me to be sourcing an electrical fault that no one here can help with. Off to the dealer with it tomorrow.

Then it's up for sale.

 

Just as an FYI to anyone that has ended up here in the future due to a search: I've bought and returned 3 batteries during ownership to solve mysterious electrical issues and not once has a new battery solved the problem.

 

My battery got low tonight. I got distracted and left my ignition and map light on for less than an hour, maybe just 30 minutes. I tried to start it and I had all sorts of flashing lights and craziness, but no cranking. Even the trunk release wouldn't work, from the fob, drivers seat, or on the trunk itself. I had to open it manually with the key. Hooked up a battery charger for maybe 10 minutes @ 2 amp and the problem was solved. A dead/low/dying battery will absolutely make things go nutz.

 

Since you have a 2000, have you looked for any signs that moisture has gotten in the trunk and settled in the spare tire well? There may not be water now, but signs it's been there before. The early cars are known to leak into the trunk. Normally people don't find it until one or more of the drains clog and let water sit. As I'm sure you know... A relay and fuse box doesn't like to sit in a damp basement....

 

cosworth, go for a 2003- on V8 "S". You'll enjoy the newer styling and power, re-vamped suspension, and of course...less bugs.

 

Just a final thought -- when the car refused to crank at first, did you hear a strange "snickerting" sound coming from the engine area? If you did, then that's a dead giveaway for insufficient power getting to the starter motor. If batt. is ok, then you have a poor connexion somewhere in the heavy current wiring. Engine ground straps spring to mind, along with any 'protection' devices in the positive heavy wiring. In the old days, you just had a helper hold the starter switch "on" while you nipped around putting your fingers carefully on the various connector nuts looking for a warm one. That one needed a clean and tighten. Nowadays of course, you just don't know what microprocessors will do under such circumstances -- probably lock you out!
Leedsman.

 

I should have though of poor batt. to starter connections, etc. Good advice Leedsman.

 

cosworth:
Did you find out what the problem was??
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