2003 S-type R

Sorry for the long story. Left and right bank running rich. If I clear the code and drive with light load the CE light stays off. If I medium excelirate the CE light comes on and Restricted Performance (RP) the RP light goes out after a bit usually when I come to a stop, If I don’t hard excel irate the RP light stays off. After The car sits a bit if I don't clear the CE light The RP light comes on shortly after I drive away and if I don't hard excel irate it goes away shortly. So here is what I have done so far.

1. Got new MAF. The one that was on there was a Toyota one so I got the same. I have the car for about 4 month and had been running fine with the Toyota one. It seemed ok for a day then CE light came on again.
2. Brought to an INDI and he checked all sensors, changed plugs, 2 on B1 and 1 on B2 were bad/corroded. Drove it home hard and no CE light. Later that day pulled out of garage and CE + RP light on.
3. Brought to different shop it’s an Audi dealer but the shop is independent and services euro cars. He determined the plug to the MAF was bad and re crimped the connectors. Drove away and after the third hard acceleration CE + RP light came on.
4. Went back they did a smoke test and dip stick pressure test and said all was good. He said before they re-crimped connector they would wiggle it and readings would whack out. Now wiggling does not effect readings. BUT randomly the readings go "wacky" he said probably something with MAF. Voltage going in was steady and then the readings would go crazy. Thought maybe the bad connections could have zapped the MAF.
5. I went and exchanged the MAF under warranty for a new one. Drove around hard and no CE light. Let sit for an hour. pulled out of garage and CE light + RP light. The replacement is an A1 Cardone 74-50009 which I have looked up and it shows as a replacement for s-type R

any ideas on next steps. I am done for the day but tomorrow I plan on looking at the plugs to see if any are different since they are new. I am thinking maybe a bad injector that’s leaking. On startup a rich condition. Over all the car seems a bit sluggish but that could be my imagination.

 

Just throwing this out there, have you check the pressure on the fuel rail? It should be around 55psi

 

Could it be that your fuel injectors are leaking or your air filter needs replacing?

Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto..._OBD_II_R2.pdf

 

The first guy said fuel presure was normal. I think he went by the readings and not a separate gauge. THat will be my next check after checking the plugs.

 

The codes are explained with known causes on files on here that are free - either get JTIS or just the codes PDF.

Those codes are (like many others) 2-trip ones so won't turn MIL on until 2 drives.

I never heard anyone use that MAF so it is suspect as perhpas not actually the right part. Many many sites simply get parts for the STR wrong. I'd be very tempted to get a used proper STR part. The fuelling will never be right if it's the wrong item.

 

Thanks all. I adjusted ed the pins a bit and drove to work (32 Miles) and no CE light. any recommendations on where to get a good price on the correct MAF and I think the plug on the wire side could use a replacing as will. THe other sensors, airfilter etc all seam to be fine. All points to bad data from the MAF. Thanks for the link to the codes. I am having difficulty getting JITS loaded n my Win 7 machine.

So is the OES one the right one?

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...ir+Flow+Sensor

 

I have a list of places that you can call on my page.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

OK, Checked all the plugs. They all seam the same. The ones on the pasenger side seamed a little wet while the ones on driver side were pretty much bone dry and tan. My next step is to get the correct MAF. If that does not do it then its to the *******.

 

It may not be the MAF, especially if the plugs show different side-to-side - you'd expect a MAF to affect sides equally.

You might be better checking each of the critical engine-related sensors for plausibility as one that's "working" but wrong can be a nightmare. OBD live data is what you want, and time to work logically through the data.

Equally, you could perhaps have damaged cat(s).

 

Agreed. I do have live data from an OBDII scanner. I set it to record when the EC light is triggered. The fuel trim is definitely out, -20% which is what I think triggers the error code. The O2 readings are all similar; one pre cat O2 on bank2 is a little different than the other at times but overall remains consistent. The MAf should be her in a day or two, my plan is to get that in and then head to the dealer. The first thing the dealer would do is tell me the MAf is incorrect so I figure I can take of that beforehand Thanks for the link, I ordered from OEM parts

 

ok, hopefully this will close out the post. I put in the new MAF that is an OEM Jaguar spec MAF and disconnected the battery for about an hour 1/2. All seams well I took it out for two short test runs, stopping and turning off the engine halfway through and no CE light. The car also seams to be running better, definitely more pull. I will need a few more trips to be 100% but so far looking good. Thanks for all your help. My next step was going to be the FPR.

So here is the quiz. I bought the car in march had no problems with the Toyota MAF. Then all of a sudden CE light. I replace with another Toyota MAF because that is what was on there and figured it ran. I am thinking that right about when the CE light cam on we had 90 degree weather. Maybe the Toyota MAF was always off but with the cooler denser air it was not enough to trip the CE light. The warm air got it to a point where it started to run rich.