My jag has been running like a diesel truck and making a rattling noise so I took off both valve covers to see is the timing was off or if the chains or tensioners broke. Once off the tensioners are in tact with no cracks and they are 3rd Gen But the the camshaft look slighty out of sync. How much play are the secondary and primary chains supposed to have and are the tensioners supposed to be springy or easily compressed? Anyone have any ideas or can point me into the right direction of what to do?

 

Are there any codes stored? If so, post here.

What type of engine oil is being used? It appears there are significant varnish deposits.

 

You may also want to search this forum for ideas. Here is one suggested thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...bad-vvt-68687/

 

Im not sure about the oil I just recently purchased it...the only code stored was for the throttle body

 

One thing I did notice is that 2 of the coil packs had oil on them.

 

Do you know the specifications of the oil you just purchased? If the vehicle is in the United States, do you know the API or ASTM ratings?

What code did you find? Kindly post it.

 

You need to renew the cam cover gaskets and spark plug well seals then clean the coils and spark plug wells of any oil residue.

You may need to replace the coils with quality units if you are still experiencing a misfire(s) to avoid catalyst damage.

 

The oil is 10w40 and its API L I believe...


The code was P1587

 

That's a circuit problem - see the codes PDF / JTIS.

 

Are the tensioners supposed to be firm or springy?

 

Do you mean SL? To maximise engine protection from sludge buildup and varnish deposits, engine oils having an API rating of SN should be used.

 

The tensioners should be able to move with moderate pressure once the locking pin used during shipping is removed.

 

I finally got some time and I confirmed the timing jumped and I think the valves might have hit(im hoping if they did its only minor). I was turning the crankshaft to get the cam flats lined up and as I was turning them a hit a really hard spot. When i got passed it they were no other spots and the cams flats didnt line up very well. Only the exhaust cam on the pasenger was off a bit. Should I do a leakdown test before I buy the tensioners kit or after?

 

Did you reinstall the upper tensioner that is shown in the photos prior to attempting to move the crankshaft? Did you move the crankshaft ONLY in a clockwise direction when facing the front of the engine? Did you have the spark plugs removed when checking the camshaft timing?

If the exhaust valves have indeed touched the pistons, it is possible to slightly bend a valve stem if you forced the crankshaft to turn. If the exhaust camshaft(s) timing is off, that must be correctly set using the special tools prior to conducting a leak-down test.

 

Yes I did reinstall the the tensioner before turning the crank which I turned only clockwise facing the front of the engine, but I did not remove the spark plugs. So I set the timing with new parts with the tools first before the leakdown?

 

If you have the tools, set the timing first, then perform the leak or compression test to determine if you have bent valves.

 

When I set up locking tools do I loosen the exhaust cam first then lock down and re tighten? Im a bit confused by the jtis

 

Be certain the crankshaft locking tool is in place and then check the position of the inlet cams. If they are aligned correctly but the exhaust cams are out of sequence, you need to loosen the exhaust cam socket-head bolt and use a suitable wrench on the middle of the cam to get it to the proper position.

Once in position, use the camshaft locking tool to hold the cams from moving and then reposition the chain onto the exhaust camshaft sprocket so it can be reattached to the front of the cam. Be sure to use the cam tensioning tool to hold the sprocket while tightening the socket-head bolt. It is vital that you do not create any slack on the drive side of the VVT unit and under no circumstances is the VVT unit to be allowed to change position on the inlet camshaft.

If necessary, repeat the process with the other cylinder head.

Remember to take your time and ensure all components are reattached correctly.

From what I have seen with the 4.0 Litre engine, it is also possible that the lower primary chain tensioners, chain guides and chain tensioning blades may have excessive wear or cracks.

 

I finally got the crank aligned and locked and now im havibg a problem getting the exhaust cam bolt off. I bought a 10mm hex bolt but it wont budge. Any tips or am I missing something?

 

You should be able to use a hex socket with a ratchet attached to loosen the bolt, or if there is not enough clearance, a hex socket with a 3/8-inch break bar. If you cannot get a socket onto the bolt due to the front timing cover clearance, use a 10mm key with a small pipe around it for increased leverage.

When loosening the bolt on the LH head, use the camshaft holding tool to prevent movement of the camshaft so there is no slack created on the drive side of the primary timing chain going to the VVT unit.

Be careful to not drop the washer into the timing case when removing the camshaft bolt.