Question: Problem with electronic hand-brake (fault & car will not move)
I got a question for a change... - Jag S-Type 3.0L 2004 with electronic handbrake...:
Out of nowhere we suddenly get sometimes a message on the display when starting the car, which says: "El. hand-brake fault". The car starts up, but will not move as the el. hand-brake is still activated... I know that one would normally try then to push the el. hand-brake lever forward to manually disengage the hand-brake, but that also does not work. Actually, after inserting the key and before turning it, there comes an audible "ping", and then you know already before starting the car, that the fault is there again. Repeated ign. OFF and ON again does not change anything. What helps SO FAR is removing the key and starting again...
I checked the brake fluid: It's definitely full.
Also: The battery is OK.
Actually before posting this new thread I tried again to find an answer on the net, and I got:
>>>
The electronic handbrake (EPB) fault in the Jaguar S-Type can be a common issue, and several solutions have been reported by owners and forums. One common solution is to reset the EPB module by disconnecting the battery for a period of time. For example, disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes, then reconnecting it and following a specific procedure to recalibrate the system. This involves applying the footbrake, switching the parking brake on, and then releasing the footbrake while turning the ignition off and on again.
>>>
or;;;:
>>>
disconnecting the negative battery cable for 10 minutes, then reconnecting it and starting the engine. The system may display a message like "Apply park brake," and the driver should pump the brakes while holding the foot brake pedal and pulling up the park brake switch handle.
>>>
So I will try that and report back...
Meanwhile: Any other suggestions?
Out of nowhere we suddenly get sometimes a message on the display when starting the car, which says: "El. hand-brake fault". The car starts up, but will not move as the el. hand-brake is still activated... I know that one would normally try then to push the el. hand-brake lever forward to manually disengage the hand-brake, but that also does not work. Actually, after inserting the key and before turning it, there comes an audible "ping", and then you know already before starting the car, that the fault is there again. Repeated ign. OFF and ON again does not change anything. What helps SO FAR is removing the key and starting again...
I checked the brake fluid: It's definitely full.
Also: The battery is OK.
Actually before posting this new thread I tried again to find an answer on the net, and I got:
>>>
The electronic handbrake (EPB) fault in the Jaguar S-Type can be a common issue, and several solutions have been reported by owners and forums. One common solution is to reset the EPB module by disconnecting the battery for a period of time. For example, disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes, then reconnecting it and following a specific procedure to recalibrate the system. This involves applying the footbrake, switching the parking brake on, and then releasing the footbrake while turning the ignition off and on again.
>>>
or;;;:
>>>
disconnecting the negative battery cable for 10 minutes, then reconnecting it and starting the engine. The system may display a message like "Apply park brake," and the driver should pump the brakes while holding the foot brake pedal and pulling up the park brake switch handle.
>>>
So I will try that and report back...
Meanwhile: Any other suggestions?
I have just done the procedure as suggested by the internet: After reconnecting the battery and turning the key to ign.-ON (without starting the engine) the display told me to apply footbrake and handbrake (manually). This I did. I then started the engine a few times to see, the the problem recurs. So far, no error on the display.
But because I started the engine now repeatedly, the voltage is a little bit lower than normal:
After all that I have 12.04 VDC with ign.-OFF and 11.64 VDC with ign.-ON (ign.-ON means on my S-Type that 2 sets (=4) DTRL (Daytime running lights) are powered up as well).
As I wrote: The battery is good.
However, when I start the engine, I get a barrage (conglomeration) of beeps (It's actually one beep, but at the same time many beeps, but without any time-gap in-between, thus, all I can count is "1".
Hence, currently it works, but the beep annoys, and I do not know, if the problem comes back...
But because I started the engine now repeatedly, the voltage is a little bit lower than normal:
After all that I have 12.04 VDC with ign.-OFF and 11.64 VDC with ign.-ON (ign.-ON means on my S-Type that 2 sets (=4) DTRL (Daytime running lights) are powered up as well).
As I wrote: The battery is good.
However, when I start the engine, I get a barrage (conglomeration) of beeps (It's actually one beep, but at the same time many beeps, but without any time-gap in-between, thus, all I can count is "1".
Hence, currently it works, but the beep annoys, and I do not know, if the problem comes back...
And what is your criteria to say the battery is good? Starter cranking speed? Shininess and psychical appearance of the battery? Not trying to bust your butt (any more than usual), just want to make sure we aren't overlooking something.
I take it you've seen this thread?:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...attery-193787/
In most of those cases, folks were also getting DSC and cruise control fault messages, so your situation may be a little different.
The prestart voltage you recorded is quite low. For troubleshooting, perhaps you can temporarily disable the DRL system to relieve the load on the battery?
Previously, I'd recommend using a battery charger for troubleshooting. Hook up a battery charger overnight and then start the engine with it still connected. If low prestart voltage was a problem, the charger would take care of that and help direct your next efforts. But lately I've had an idea that is a little easier to implement. You still want to charge the battery overnight, as having a fully charged battery is an important prerequisite for any troubleshooting. Disconnect the charger as normal and start the engine.
Right after engine start, you should see approximately 14.5v at the battery. After a few minutes, the charging voltage will decrease to around 13.7v. If good, go for a test drive, at least 20 minutes, longer if possible. The idea is let the charging system top off the battery again. Next, stop somewhere convenient and turn off the engine momentarily and set the parking brake. Then start the engine and release the parking brake. If all is good now, with the battery hopefully topped off, you'd know low prestart voltage had been the culprit those other times. Your next step would be to determine if the battery itself is not holding a charge or there's an external drain running it down.
I take it you've seen this thread?:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...attery-193787/
In most of those cases, folks were also getting DSC and cruise control fault messages, so your situation may be a little different.
The prestart voltage you recorded is quite low. For troubleshooting, perhaps you can temporarily disable the DRL system to relieve the load on the battery?
Previously, I'd recommend using a battery charger for troubleshooting. Hook up a battery charger overnight and then start the engine with it still connected. If low prestart voltage was a problem, the charger would take care of that and help direct your next efforts. But lately I've had an idea that is a little easier to implement. You still want to charge the battery overnight, as having a fully charged battery is an important prerequisite for any troubleshooting. Disconnect the charger as normal and start the engine.
Right after engine start, you should see approximately 14.5v at the battery. After a few minutes, the charging voltage will decrease to around 13.7v. If good, go for a test drive, at least 20 minutes, longer if possible. The idea is let the charging system top off the battery again. Next, stop somewhere convenient and turn off the engine momentarily and set the parking brake. Then start the engine and release the parking brake. If all is good now, with the battery hopefully topped off, you'd know low prestart voltage had been the culprit those other times. Your next step would be to determine if the battery itself is not holding a charge or there's an external drain running it down.
Do these symptoms look familiar?:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...simple-217398/
If so, the fix was to replace the actuator.
A similar thread about corrosion inside the the actuator gearbox, but unfortunately all the pics have disappeared:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...r-apart-53753/
The actuator is tucked under the rear of the car and difficult to access. But I think you can check the outside for rust stains at the seams, without too much difficulty. If rust stains are present, the gaskets have failed and water got inside.
Another semi-common fault is the cables binding from age or corrosion. This makes the motor work harder. Just guessing at the fault reporting logic, but if motor amp draw goes over a certain limit, or transit time takes too long, a parking brake fault is annunciated.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...simple-217398/
If so, the fix was to replace the actuator.
A similar thread about corrosion inside the the actuator gearbox, but unfortunately all the pics have disappeared:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...r-apart-53753/
The actuator is tucked under the rear of the car and difficult to access. But I think you can check the outside for rust stains at the seams, without too much difficulty. If rust stains are present, the gaskets have failed and water got inside.
Another semi-common fault is the cables binding from age or corrosion. This makes the motor work harder. Just guessing at the fault reporting logic, but if motor amp draw goes over a certain limit, or transit time takes too long, a parking brake fault is annunciated.
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For the moment I seem to be good - my S-Type that is...:
So thanks, Bob, you really have a TB for everything. Somehow I managed to recalibrate the el. hand-brake, but if I have to do it again, I will do it as detailed in that TB.
And thanks Karl and JagV8 - maybe you were right about the battery - or maybe it's just a coincidence that all troubles incl. that "beep" are gone after I charged the battery...
To paint a complete picture of my battery:
It is many years old, but I maintain it well: I regularly recharge it with a 15A CTEK charger - but I did not do this for a few weeks now, while it also had gotten cold here at night (7°C = 45° Fahrenheit - that is about as cold as it ever gets here...).
My measurements above were after test-starting the Jag 4 or 5 times in s row - that is why they were low.
Now, after driving about 5km early this morning the alternator charged the battery to a more agreeable voltage:
Measurement taken 4 hours after driving those 5km: 12.35V ign.-OFF & 11.80 with ign.-ON and 4 DTRLs on.
Then I charged the battery with a.m. charger (during the day to make use of my roof-solar-power) until it showed it was full: Directly after that: 13.03V with ign.-OFF.
And measured again 2.5 hours later: 12.77V @ ign.-OFF and 12.4V @ ign.-ON and 4 DTRLs on.
and as mentioned above: no more probs and no more beep, and I hope it stays that way...
So thanks, Bob, you really have a TB for everything. Somehow I managed to recalibrate the el. hand-brake, but if I have to do it again, I will do it as detailed in that TB.
And thanks Karl and JagV8 - maybe you were right about the battery - or maybe it's just a coincidence that all troubles incl. that "beep" are gone after I charged the battery...
To paint a complete picture of my battery:
It is many years old, but I maintain it well: I regularly recharge it with a 15A CTEK charger - but I did not do this for a few weeks now, while it also had gotten cold here at night (7°C = 45° Fahrenheit - that is about as cold as it ever gets here...).
My measurements above were after test-starting the Jag 4 or 5 times in s row - that is why they were low.
Now, after driving about 5km early this morning the alternator charged the battery to a more agreeable voltage:
Measurement taken 4 hours after driving those 5km: 12.35V ign.-OFF & 11.80 with ign.-ON and 4 DTRLs on.
Then I charged the battery with a.m. charger (during the day to make use of my roof-solar-power) until it showed it was full: Directly after that: 13.03V with ign.-OFF.
And measured again 2.5 hours later: 12.77V @ ign.-OFF and 12.4V @ ign.-ON and 4 DTRLs on.
and as mentioned above: no more probs and no more beep, and I hope it stays that way...
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