Yes, could just come back to life like a cell. But you need to get the damp out and that will not happen at all easily if it is inside a module or a connector - or indeed if inside the internals of the fuse box. Very dry air over a longish period will help but you may need to open the various items as well. Easiest not to bother - yet.

Sadly, modern electronics does not like water. As more electronics items are put into cars this problem is growing. It's not just jags, of course.

Do not disconnect things or open modules if the battery is connected. Probably don't start at all if you feel out of your depth. Maybe use an auto-electrician?

I don't know whether any of the modules need programming if you buy them yourself. I hope not.

 

Hi Bull27,

I found this site and it has the TSBs listed although you may have to drill down somewhat.

http://www.aboutautomobile.com/

Mike

 

It appears you have to pay to read the actual details of TSBs.

Crazy.

 

Thanks again, I shot the service manager an email yesterday askign about the fact that they are probably still damp and is there a possiblity to dry them out. We will see what he has to say when he calls me back today. Regardless, there is NO WAY I am having them replace the CATS Module, and Backup Sensor Module. If they do need to be replaced, I will be ordering the parts myself and bring them to an independent.

By the way, anyone know of, or have a good sourse to find a good independent shop in Eastern Massachusetts? I googled the snot out of the topic to no avail.

 

...nothing particularly difficult about replacing the CATS and Backup Module(s) - a couple of screws and plug and play unless I'm missing something - I have ripped out the Backup module in "she who must be obeyed" X-Type Sportwagon and dried out, cleaned connectors and replaced same - I completely disconnected the CATS system on my STR when I installed the H&R springs and it works perfectly

 

So theoretically, since i am not a mechanical car guy and the fact that it is plug and play, I can order online and with a good diagram fix myself? I am just worried about some other faults coming up and/or having to reset the ECM or whatever.

 

Got the vehicle back and wow, how I missed it. I was charged 2.5 hrs of labor and $92 in parts (new trunk seal) for a total of $399. They replaced my trunk seal, readjusted trunk, replaced clips on the right rear trim piece (above window), it was hanging off, recalibrated the xenons, was able to clean and get the CATS system module back online (phew), cleaned and got my amp back to working order, and performed the J004 recall. The only thing they could not get back online was the parking sensor module. Here are the techs comments:

(customer had added electrical list. HAD PROBLEM WITH AMP, ADAPTIVE RID, WATER LEAK, L HEAD LAMP, DOOR MOLDING CLIPS, BACK UP SENSORS. CHECKED AMP, FOUND GROUND WAS LOOSE, ALSO FIBER OPTIC PLSGE WAS NOT SECURE. SECURED PLUGE AND TIGHTENED GROUND WIRE. SYSTEM WORKING GOOD. COULD NOT READ AMP BEFORE, NOW BACK IN LINE. FOUND WATER LEAK IN TRUNK WAS COMING FROM R/UPPER CORNER OF TRUNK. IT WAS VERY HIGH AND NOT SEALING, ALSO TRUNK SEAL DRY AND NOT SEALING TIGHT. WHEN TRYING TO ADJUST TRUNK FOUND 1 BOLT WAS STRIPPED AND NOT HOLDING ADJ. AT THIS TIME, REPLACED BOLT AND ADJUSTED TRUNK AND REPLACED SEAL. ALSO FOUND BACK UP SENSOR MODULE HAS CORROSION IN WIRES, AND MODULE. NEED NEW MODULE AND POSSIBLY THE SOUNDER. FOUND CODES FOR ADAPTIVE RID CONTROL, CHECKED FOR WATER DAMAGE, DID NOT SEE ANY. CLEANED PLUGS, MODULE, SEALED THEN REFLASHED. WORKING GOOD AT THIS TIME. REPLACED L/RDOOR MOLDING CLIPS, AND CALIBRATED HEAD LAMP AND MODULE.

PERFORMED JOO4 OP D. PROGRAM ECU AND TCM (DONT USE SPORT MODE BEFORE 200 MILES)


I saw a post on here about reflashing the tranny by means of disconnecting battery and (stomping) on it so the tranny will learn to shift higher. Both the tech and advisor stressed to me to NOT use Sport mode for 200 miles, or there is a possiblity the vehicle could go into Limp Mode. Just a thought for anyone who is planning on doing this. I think it is shifting 10x better, and am very happy with the reasonable amount of hrs. they charged me for labor.

Next mission: DIY replacing parking sensor module, anyone know what the "sounder" is?

 

That looks good value.

I would stay away from Sport mode as requested. I would NOT stomp on it!

The sounder will be the device that beeps when you're in reverse. I didn't realise it was a separate device - have a look at the elctrical diagrams to check.

You can tell whether the parking module is activating the actual sensors by putting car in reverse and listening close up to the sensors in the rear bumper (you don't need engine running, but probably need to be in iginition II). Each should emit a faint ticking.

If they're not ticking, maybe the module has no power (check fuses; use electrical meter to check power) or the module isn't seeing the "in reverse" signal. Or something else.

If they tick, but your sounder isn't beeping, it's a different problem such as wiring to the sounder or a bad connector.

 

Dont hear a tick or a beep in the trunk. Doesnt the beep actually come from the rear speakers anyways? I just think the module is trashed i.e. got wet and shorted out. I believe they are somewhat reasonable $$$ to purchase online somewhere, I just hope it is in fact a plug and play type deal. I will shut my car off seeing as i cant hear to good with the exhaust, and actually check my bumper sensors. My neighbors were out there when I got home so the only thing I could really do was pretend I was getting something in my trunk while "listening". Didnt want them to think i have completely lost it. (Putting my ear to the actual bumper of the car).

 

you need to remove the rear deck, it is a little piezo speaker on the driver side of the rear deck

 

upper left hand corner of this pictue is the speaker for the backup system

 

Interesting, thanks for the pic Jason! I am right in assuming it is just the module and speakers are fine though? Its not like they got blown out, just the module crapped the bed.

 

serenanch, I have a 2003 str as well...how do you dissconnect the cats system? and where??
ive purchased monroe after market struts for my str 2003, but after installing them the mechanic told me the originals have senors which these aftermarkets do NOT! after full installation the cats fault light came on ... help is there a way to disconncet the module for the cats system? i was told it was located in the trunk? and where!

 

Hi Don, I answered your question on my thread. Open the trunk, look down on the wall behind the bumper. You will see to modules. Unplug the module on the left then disconnect the battery, touch both battery leads together for a minute, then replace (hard ECU re-set), The CATS warning message will disappear.

 

Hello!

New to the forum, just registered.

I have a 2003 S Type R with 71 000 km.

I have been having the intermittent CATS system fault situation. At first it would go away when I restarted the engine. Eventually it would not go away at all. So I removed the CATS module (after disconnecting the battery!) and noticed that the wires entering the gray connector on the module were oxidized. Some very light oxidation was observed on the motherboard itself. As well, one the wires going into the connector was unplugged. So I brushed the wires clean, soldered the wire back into the connector and put it all back together. Everything worked fine for two weeks. Meanwhile I got the trunk seal replaced. I then got the dreaded CATS system fault again. Took the module out again, this time I brushed the terminal and added dielectric silicon to seal the wires at the entry of the connector and on the connector male end as well. I thought it was a humidity problem. Worked fine for 4 to 5 days. Now back to square one. Still have the original battery.

Any advise? Tired of getting this car fixed. Replace transmission module, differential and drive shaft as well as trunk seal.

Thanks in advance!!