Great Write up Rick as always!

Im performing this repair on my Front passenger door today (with the help of this write up and JTIS) and my plastic gear is broken at exact same place as yours (where it hold this pin in place)...

I also see 2 places where pin can go (one is broken in our case), and I'm wondering if I can secure the pin in the non broken ridge and put it back together (it seems like it'll work?) Not sure but will have to try it. Did you consider trying that?


Thanks a lot in advance for your answer.

Best Regards,
Rizwan

Well, it didn't work .... Seems like I'll have to get a new actuator and install it myself. (at least now I'm much more confident opening and closing it back again )

Best not to short cut it! Seems like it comes back to bite you later.
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Nothing ventured nothing gained as my father used to say.

Riz I went with a used lock mechanism for half the price of dealer.

Absolutely, Rick, is this part same from 2000-2008?

Thanks again!

Actually no as I found out the hard way. The used part that was sent to me was a preface lift model, it turned out not to be a turn key install. So I took the "new/used" actuator apart and switched the plastic gear that was the same, all has been good since.

Ahh OK. Thanks a lot Rick. Really appreciate your help!

I did both rear door lock actuators last weekend and I tried every possible way to avoid not pulling the quarter window but no luck. The write-up made things move smoothly. I actually got the cover off w/o breaking the clip.


XR853052 Passenger rear $161.00-15%(discount from dealership)= $136.85
XR853056 Driver rear $135.00 brand new off eBay but almost same price from dealership.

Good job Nv. Prior to the write up no one explained about the clip.


Yes, after re-reading all the posts to this thread, and the couple of times doing this procedure, I was never able to finagle the actuator out of the door without removing the quarter window. Kinda reminds me of someone here telling me that it is possible to remove the #3 COP (on the 3.0 liter) without removing the plenum. I spent about 2 hours just for the hell of it trying, and there is no way, remember that story Jon?


BTW Nv, oddly enough I was wondering if you were still an S Type owner just the other day. I was going through some old, old posts searching for something for someone and you were posting a lot back then, but not as much as of late, welcome back.

Yes, I spent way too long trying to get it out the first time and said some pretty bad words about someone lol. The second window went much faster once I realized it wasn't possible.

The Jag has not received much attention until a few months ago. I have been working on a few other projects that I take to Cars and Coffee.

Rick,

I do indeed remember the long-ago days (mid-2009) of you attempting to remove the rear passenger-side coil and plug without removing the plenum first after a Jaguar tech at our local dealership told me that he could do it using his secret tricks and special tools. Until I see it done live, I'll never believe it. Perhaps one day Brutal will chime in and let us know if there really is a way to do this....

Alright, this is an excellent write-up, but it doesn't tell you how to get the door open if the lock has failed with the door shut, does it?

Well I did exactly that today, so i'd thought i'd share my experience.

Unfortunately I was so wrapped up in the job I didn't think to take pictures until after I got the door open (once I stopped dancing around the garage like a kid who'd just had his first kiss from a pretty girl LOL)

Follow Rick's guide, but with the door still closed;

- Door card off
- Inner door handle out
- Quarter window and runner out
- Speaker out
- Window seals and plastic trims out
- Disconnect the electrical plug to the lock & get it out of the way

Next, pull as hard as you can on the cable, this will pop off the plastic cover where the cable goes into the lock, get the cable out of the way, it's still attached to the lock, but you don't want to damage the plastic housing which is attached to the cable.

Then you need to prize the door frame open a little in order to get your big screwdriver in to the top of the lock, start hammering the plastic at the top of the lock, hammer, hammer, hammer, hammer, hammer, clearing away the bits of broken plastic as you go. There are several layers you need to get through.

Once you've exposed the top of the cam which locks around the door pin, you need to cut the axle pin away. I did this with a Dremel, using the remote snake and a thick cutting wheel, just grinding it away until I was able to prise the lock apart to get to the bottom half of that cam. Then you can get the screwdriver in and presto, the door pops open.

So here's the pic of when the door (suddenly) popped open.



And a close up of where the screwdriver ended up, in order to move the cam





Next you need to remove the door handle, this is the same as Rick explained, a torx from in the inside (there is a hole already on the inner skin of the door to get the driver in) and the torx from the outside, which is under the cover.

Thanks for the pre-warning, I was able to get the cover off without breaking the clip



Make sure you put tape over the outer handle to protect it, it will get scratched as you bring it through the door cavity.

The three torx bolts in the door jamb, and then finally you can get the whole assembly out, and put in a new lock.

Here's what it looked like after, compared to the new lock:









Test the new lock before putting it all back together



Here you can see the "damage" to the door frame, with a bit of manipulation with a pair of multi-grips, I got it all reasonable square again.



Then put everything back together, and enjoy your car again...

On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, I rate this job as a TOTAL BA$TARD and can understand why I got charged 6 hours labour when it happened to the XJR.

This took me about 5 hours including removing & replacing the door trim, if I had to do it again (please god, no) I guess I could knock it over in about 2 hours. The problem was not knowing what the lock looked like on the inside so I had a lot of trial & error, as well as stopping to take a break before loosing my temper with this thing.

Here's some more pics of the door lock after "modification"











Tools needed:

Patience
Torx screwdrivers
Big flat screwdriver, sharpened
Hammer
Dremel with snake & cutting wheel
Endoscope (my $80 ebay special helped out big time)

It certainly sounds like it.

Well done!

Hey Cambo,

Told you the Dremel with the remote snake will come in handy latter but it does bring up bad memories of a thermostat!!!

Well done glad to see it's fixed

Cheers
34by151

Yeah mate, it's a very handy tool to have.

Speaking of thermostats, this S-Type needs one too! Hope it's not as painful as the one on the XJR...

Hope the Thermostat is not as bad

Let me know when you are going to do it. Ill bring the extra tools and a box of helicoils!!!

Cheers
34by151

Good Times!


Nice extension to the OP. Thank you for taking the time to properly add the large photos to the write up.


Your welcome on the warning of the "clip", my 3M automotive trim tape is still holding securely.


No optional band aid needed(?)

I need to do this on the front passenger door. My wife is tired of leaning over to lock and unlock the car. The drivers door only will unlock with the key, but otherwise to lock or unlock them all at once you can only do it by manually pushing or pulling the lock button on the front passenger door. If you push the central lock button you can hear the actuator cycle, but will not work, and they lock and then immediately unlock. Annoying.

Any easier for the front than the rear, as described?

andy here is a "How To" that Rob (spitfire) had done on his front door, it may help you out:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ide-faq-31104/


Sorry, I thought it more on the lock actuator as well. I thought there was another maybe by norri (moderator) but I can't find it.

I had the exact same issue and was able to replace it myself. Just make sure to be polite when removing the trim, exterior door handle trim and the window glass.

JTIS has complete procedure with pictures and it makes it easy do, I highly recommend following JTIS if you have any confusion.

Hope this helps.