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Remote for 2000 S-Type

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  #21  
Old 02-24-2011, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Brutal
Uhm bob, i never do the 2 original key thing anymore. I found it too hit and miss. It would always work for me. But i had more than a couple customer come back saying that the new key wouldnt work again, so i just program with ids. As a side note. You dont have to have 2 keys that fir the car to program. You need 1 that fits the car, some aluminum foil, and another correct transponder key say from the jaguar in the next stall
program the 1 key, then wrap it up in aluminum foil so the key blade sticks out, (have the foil shaped and ready before hand) then when it asks for the second, just turn the ignition with the first key thats now shielded with aluminum foil while holding the donor slave key next to the other key while you turn it. That way the reader will read the other key and voila' it goes right through with only purchasing and cutting 1 key. Just a trick i learn 1 time when i forgot to tell the customer they needed 2 keys with a new instrument pack and twhen i did they only had 1 a complained about having to then buy another
Brutal, can you guys cut master/valet/post keys from a VIN?
Basically I have an aftermarket alarm for my car so I'd like to replace my key with a post key for daily driving (so as to avoid clutter on my key ring).

Would I need two currently programmed keys to do the "two original key" programming method, or can I use your tin foil trick (I have spare keys)?

I don't care about the keyless remote part of the equation from a jaguar key perspective.

Thanks in advance,

George
 
  #22  
Old 02-24-2011, 05:12 PM
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George you should be able to fax a copy of title, registrationproof of ownership etc and have it cut. The numbers on the back of the key is the key number like 2112323. If you call around to locksmiths you might find 1 that has the correct cutter and can program, we have a few in houston i know of,
you cannot do the foil as and owner, thst is when programming at the dealer with ids/sdd
 
  #23  
Old 02-24-2011, 05:40 PM
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That's what they told me here...VIN# plus copy of the title and owners DL.

So am I correct in thinking if I get another key cut and reprogramed along with the original I have that any of the other original keys floating around will no longer work?

It's a bit far fetched perhaps but this car was fairly local. I know it came from a Pittsburgh dealer from a card in the owners manual and the window sticker. Would be comforting to know that any unaccounted for keys no longer work.
 
  #24  
Old 02-24-2011, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bodyman
That's what they told me here...VIN# plus copy of the title and owners DL.

So am I correct in thinking if I get another key cut and reprogramed along with the original I have that any of the other original keys floating around will no longer work?

It's a bit far fetched perhaps but this car was fairly local. I know it came from a Pittsburgh dealer from a card in the owners manual and the window sticker. Would be comforting to know that any unaccounted for keys no longer work.
Yes that is correct only keys from the current programming session will work.

Take care,

George
 
  #25  
Old 02-24-2011, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by androulakis
I have two spare switchblade keys in good condition if anyone is interested. $50 each, or $80 for both. Dealer list for the remote portion is $188.

You would still have to get the metal portion cut from your dealer ~ $45, plus programming, which is a one shot deal, all the keys that you want to use with the car have to be programmed simultaneously on an S-Type.

Take care,

George
If I buy one off you will I have to buy the metal key part for it or can I recut the ones on your remotes?
 
  #26  
Old 02-24-2011, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by achysklic
If I buy one off you will I have to buy the metal key part for it or can I recut the ones on your remotes?
You would need to get new metal halves which would have to be cut. The metal portion isn't reuseable.

Take care,

George
 
  #27  
Old 02-24-2011, 06:31 PM
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How much does the metal halves usually run?
 
  #28  
Old 02-24-2011, 09:09 PM
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Default The key that couldn't be ground....

Here is the problem with my eBay key as explained to me by the dealer:

The blank he was selling already had the point on the end, pre-grinding.
You can see mine was squared-off.

btw...if you have only one key/car, yet >1 car, be careful. A little tidbit I picked up on the x300 forum was that Jag keys were fairly universal at locking Jags, but not unlocking. I don't think it is THAT bad, but within series it seems to work. My 03 Stype key will lock the 05, but not unlock it. However, x300 key won't lock the Stype. My guess is that you can lock most any S-type with an S-type key, so in theory, you could lock your only key in the ignition.
 
Attached Thumbnails Remote for 2000 S-Type-img_20110224_205256.jpg   Remote for 2000 S-Type-img_20110224_205336.jpg  
  #29  
Old 02-25-2011, 01:42 AM
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This "lock any car" thing seems to be a feature of Tibbe keys/locks. Affects many Fords, as they often use Tibbe locks & keys.
 
  #30  
Old 02-25-2011, 08:24 AM
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When I worked at the dealer several mechanics in the shop would do the FOOL THE KTM thing with aluminum foil but I never did. It did not always work the first time and could get frustrating getting the timing and position correct.

I would tell the customer to get 2 keys for their own good. 1 key is a pretty stupid way to go through life knowing that it could get lost or damaged.

Luckily the S-Type did not have a locking steering wheel so it was easy to get it off the wrecker and into the shop when the keys were lost.

bob gauff
 
  #31  
Old 02-25-2011, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman

Luckily the S-Type did not have a locking steering wheel so it was easy to get it off the wrecker and into the shop when the keys were lost.

bob gauff


Bet it wasn't as easy to pay the bill!
 
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