S-Type 4.0 overheating
#21
05-09-2014, 03:35 PM
I'm curious to Mikey's inquiry as well... What did the dealer actually do (or didn't do...)
#22
05-27-2014, 10:28 AM
2000 S-Type 4.0 overheating
Apparently not enough!
They now want to replace the head gaskets for another $5000. They will apply the $1000.00 cost if the new radiator already installed to the cost of replacing the head gaskets . This leaves me with a new bill of $4000.00
How can they and especially I be sure the Head gaskest are blown?
WHAT ELSE COULD THEY FIND WHEN THEY REMOVE THE HEAD?
THANKS EVERYONE
They now want to replace the head gaskets for another $5000. They will apply the $1000.00 cost if the new radiator already installed to the cost of replacing the head gaskets . This leaves me with a new bill of $4000.00
How can they and especially I be sure the Head gaskest are blown?
WHAT ELSE COULD THEY FIND WHEN THEY REMOVE THE HEAD?
THANKS EVERYONE
#23
05-27-2014, 10:53 AM
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You'd be throwing good money after bad. Don't spend another penny until a full diagnosis has been done to determine what's wrong, if anything. Given your description, I'm not convinced that there's much of a problem.
The guys have asked several key questions above. Without answers it will be difficult to make any progress.
The guys have asked several key questions above. Without answers it will be difficult to make any progress.
#24
05-31-2014, 10:45 AM
2000 S type 4.0 overheating what have I done
1. Install new coolant reservoir $540 this is the third one on this car my husband replace the first to successfully I might add
2. Complete coolant system service $230
3. Replaced thermostat housing assembly and cross over pipe total $875
4. Replaced waterpump $340
5. Replace radiator $1050
6. Replace head gasket $4700
7. Replace plastic tensioners on timing chain as recommended in the previous posts. no price for this yet.
I think this is all they have done and I am planning to do to this car. since I didn't need a new radiator they are going to credit the $1050 to the cost of replacing the head gasket bringing it down to $3650. Nice touch!
Sorry I haven't responded sooner but I've been in New Hampshire attending my niece's wedding and getting away from it all for the last two weeks. haven't thought about this car! it's still at the Jaguar dealership has been there about a month now I'm waiting to hear about what they find when they take off the heads.
2. Complete coolant system service $230
3. Replaced thermostat housing assembly and cross over pipe total $875
4. Replaced waterpump $340
5. Replace radiator $1050
6. Replace head gasket $4700
7. Replace plastic tensioners on timing chain as recommended in the previous posts. no price for this yet.
I think this is all they have done and I am planning to do to this car. since I didn't need a new radiator they are going to credit the $1050 to the cost of replacing the head gasket bringing it down to $3650. Nice touch!
Sorry I haven't responded sooner but I've been in New Hampshire attending my niece's wedding and getting away from it all for the last two weeks. haven't thought about this car! it's still at the Jaguar dealership has been there about a month now I'm waiting to hear about what they find when they take off the heads.
#25
05-31-2014, 10:51 AM
What have they done for $5000
I've itemized the costs I spent on the overheating problem in my previous post. the rest of the money has was spent on front brakes, rear view mirror, on complete tuneup general maintenance. the total is not going to be just for the overheating problem.
=Mikey;983873]You'd be throwing good money after bad. Don't spend another penny until a full diagnosis has been done to determine what's wrong, if anything. Given your description, I'm not convinced that there's much of a problem.
The guys have asked several key questions above. Without answers it will be difficult to make any progress.[/QUOTE]
=Mikey;983873]You'd be throwing good money after bad. Don't spend another penny until a full diagnosis has been done to determine what's wrong, if anything. Given your description, I'm not convinced that there's much of a problem.
The guys have asked several key questions above. Without answers it will be difficult to make any progress.[/QUOTE]
#26
05-31-2014, 10:55 AM
#27
05-31-2014, 01:25 PM
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A leaky head gasket will either 1)allow coolant to flow into the cylinder or 2) allow combustion pressure into the coolant system.
The first case will cause the coolant level to decrease and illuminate the low coolant warning. If ignored, the engine will overheat continuously and eventually destroy itself.
The second case will cause steam to come from the exhaust and/or a massive over pressure and boil over of the cooling system.
Neither will cause a hot engine indication that goes away by stopping and restarting the engine.
You've yet to answer the question asking if the engine is actually overheating or it's just an indication issue.
The first case will cause the coolant level to decrease and illuminate the low coolant warning. If ignored, the engine will overheat continuously and eventually destroy itself.
The second case will cause steam to come from the exhaust and/or a massive over pressure and boil over of the cooling system.
Neither will cause a hot engine indication that goes away by stopping and restarting the engine.
You've yet to answer the question asking if the engine is actually overheating or it's just an indication issue.
#28
05-31-2014, 06:40 PM
Yes, it is really overheating.
They found coolant in the # 6 cylinder.
Stopping and starting may not have stoppped the overheating, but the temperature gauge went from HOT (all the way to the right, red zone,) back to normal ( just to the right of vertical). When I parked the car in my driveway I heard a fan cooling the engine. I had never heard it before. In fact I didn't even know the 2000 S-Type had this feature.
Stopping and starting may not have stoppped the overheating, but the temperature gauge went from HOT (all the way to the right, red zone,) back to normal ( just to the right of vertical). When I parked the car in my driveway I heard a fan cooling the engine. I had never heard it before. In fact I didn't even know the 2000 S-Type had this feature.
#29
06-01-2014, 09:21 AM
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I'll take a wild guess as to what might have happened. It was mentioned above that the coolant reservoir tank has previously failed, twice. Nobody changes these for fun, only in response to a leak.
Due to the leak, the system coolant level dropped to an unacceptably low level which allowed the engine to overheat. This in turn warped a cylinder head initiating a leak into cyl. 6.
It is known that the coolant temp gauges on these cars are virtually useless, but the loss of coolant should have illuminated the low coolant warning.
Due to the leak, the system coolant level dropped to an unacceptably low level which allowed the engine to overheat. This in turn warped a cylinder head initiating a leak into cyl. 6.
It is known that the coolant temp gauges on these cars are virtually useless, but the loss of coolant should have illuminated the low coolant warning.
#30
06-01-2014, 05:58 PM
2000 S-type still at the dealership
I did not notice the warning light. most of the time I can't read it because the sun is so bright here in San Diego it's basically useless unless I'm in the shade.
this does not sound like good new, however. A warped cylinder head, oh no!
this does not sound like good new, however. A warped cylinder head, oh no!
I'll take a wild guess as to what might have happened. It was mentioned above that the coolant reservoir tank has previously failed, twice. Nobody changes these for fun, only in response to a leak.
Due to the leak, the system coolant level dropped to an unacceptably low level which allowed the engine to overheat. This in turn warped a cylinder head initiating a leak into cyl. 6.
It is known that the coolant temp gauges on these cars are virtually useless, but the loss of coolant should have illuminated the low coolant warning.
Due to the leak, the system coolant level dropped to an unacceptably low level which allowed the engine to overheat. This in turn warped a cylinder head initiating a leak into cyl. 6.
It is known that the coolant temp gauges on these cars are virtually useless, but the loss of coolant should have illuminated the low coolant warning.
#31
06-10-2014, 09:17 PM
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Hi everyone,
Same problem here. It is almost two years sins I am trying to solve it with no success. My 2000 Jaguar S-Type 4.0 with 170,000 miles on it runs flawlessly accept these engine temperature jumps.
When it started It was once in a month event. Now it became almost every day routine: 7 out of 10 times, after cold start in the morning or after work, following 3 to 5 miles of driving with gage showing nominal temperature, fan goes on, one minute later temperature needle start moving to the right, it takes 15 to 20 seconds to get the red light on and warning massage ‘HIGH ENGINE TEMPERATURE’. At first I used to stop the car and let it cool down, it never repeated for the rest of the trip. Later I learned to interrupt the process of rising temperature by turning on climate control and quickly bringing target cabin temperature to “HI”. This action stops the gage needle on its way to red light and moves it back to normal with the same speed it was rising. After this brief exercise I can switch off the heat and drive all day with no problem (like 400 miles from Detroit to Chicago and back, including stop-and-go traffic at 105 F outdoor temperature). This fault seems to have no correlation with ambient temperature or driving conditions.
I went through a dozen of theories about the cause of this fault and eliminated them one by one. What have been done (in chronological order):
1. Thermostat replacement (boiled thermostat to verify opening temperature) – no effect.
2. Water pump replacement (it has metal impeller now) – no effect.
3. Expansion tank cap replacement – no effect.
4. Engine temperature measurements at the moment of temperature rise at the gage using laser thermometer, max temperature observed on cylinder block 221 deg F. Conclusion: it is not a false signal but rather a short term rise that can be caused by trapped air pocket.
5. Cooling system flash/back-flash, coolant replacement, cooling system leak check (at dealership) – no effect.
6. Driving with thermostat removed for two weeks – fan was on at low RPM as expected but gage never moved from nominal ! Fault is gone when thermostat removed.
7. Thermostat replacement (again, just in case) – fault is back, no effect.
8. Thermostat manifold replacement with aftermarket one made of aluminum (from britishparts.co.uk – Jaguar parts supplier) – no effect.
Dynamics of the temperature jump seems to be consistent with what might be an air pocket, though I have hard time to explain how and why air bubble gets accumulated?
I don’t believe it is a blown gasket. Abonano have already explained why (thank you J)
It seems a good time to donate the car. What keeps going is that with this problem it is not good even for donation L
My next suspects – heater valve and auxiliary water pump. Theory is: those are the only two components in the way of coolant flow from the expansion tank back to the engine. If activation of heater valve (switching climate control ON) makes hight temperature go away then may be this flow is restricted before that? Bought heater valve already. Will keep you updated.
Same problem here. It is almost two years sins I am trying to solve it with no success. My 2000 Jaguar S-Type 4.0 with 170,000 miles on it runs flawlessly accept these engine temperature jumps.
When it started It was once in a month event. Now it became almost every day routine: 7 out of 10 times, after cold start in the morning or after work, following 3 to 5 miles of driving with gage showing nominal temperature, fan goes on, one minute later temperature needle start moving to the right, it takes 15 to 20 seconds to get the red light on and warning massage ‘HIGH ENGINE TEMPERATURE’. At first I used to stop the car and let it cool down, it never repeated for the rest of the trip. Later I learned to interrupt the process of rising temperature by turning on climate control and quickly bringing target cabin temperature to “HI”. This action stops the gage needle on its way to red light and moves it back to normal with the same speed it was rising. After this brief exercise I can switch off the heat and drive all day with no problem (like 400 miles from Detroit to Chicago and back, including stop-and-go traffic at 105 F outdoor temperature). This fault seems to have no correlation with ambient temperature or driving conditions.
I went through a dozen of theories about the cause of this fault and eliminated them one by one. What have been done (in chronological order):
1. Thermostat replacement (boiled thermostat to verify opening temperature) – no effect.
2. Water pump replacement (it has metal impeller now) – no effect.
3. Expansion tank cap replacement – no effect.
4. Engine temperature measurements at the moment of temperature rise at the gage using laser thermometer, max temperature observed on cylinder block 221 deg F. Conclusion: it is not a false signal but rather a short term rise that can be caused by trapped air pocket.
5. Cooling system flash/back-flash, coolant replacement, cooling system leak check (at dealership) – no effect.
6. Driving with thermostat removed for two weeks – fan was on at low RPM as expected but gage never moved from nominal ! Fault is gone when thermostat removed.
7. Thermostat replacement (again, just in case) – fault is back, no effect.
8. Thermostat manifold replacement with aftermarket one made of aluminum (from britishparts.co.uk – Jaguar parts supplier) – no effect.
Dynamics of the temperature jump seems to be consistent with what might be an air pocket, though I have hard time to explain how and why air bubble gets accumulated?
I don’t believe it is a blown gasket. Abonano have already explained why (thank you J)
It seems a good time to donate the car. What keeps going is that with this problem it is not good even for donation L
My next suspects – heater valve and auxiliary water pump. Theory is: those are the only two components in the way of coolant flow from the expansion tank back to the engine. If activation of heater valve (switching climate control ON) makes hight temperature go away then may be this flow is restricted before that? Bought heater valve already. Will keep you updated.
#32
06-10-2014, 10:17 PM
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#33
06-11-2014, 04:50 AM
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elizabethe (06-13-2014)
#34
06-11-2014, 05:25 AM
Hi everyone,
Same problem here. It is almost two years sins I am trying to solve it with no success. My 2000 Jaguar S-Type 4.0 with 170,000 miles on it runs flawlessly accept these engine temperature jumps.
I went through a dozen of theories about the cause of this fault and eliminated them one by one. What have been done (in chronological order):
1. Thermostat replacement (boiled thermostat to verify opening temperature) – no effect.
2. Water pump replacement (it has metal impeller now) – no effect.
3. Expansion tank cap replacement – no effect.
4. Engine temperature measurements at the moment of temperature rise at the gage using laser thermometer, max temperature observed on cylinder block 221 deg F. Conclusion: it is not a false signal but rather a short term rise that can be caused by trapped air pocket.
5. Cooling system flash/back-flash, coolant replacement, cooling system leak check (at dealership) – no effect.
6. Driving with thermostat removed for two weeks – fan was on at low RPM as expected but gage never moved from nominal ! Fault is gone when thermostat removed.
7. Thermostat replacement (again, just in case) – fault is back, no effect.
8. Thermostat manifold replacement with aftermarket one made of aluminum (from britishparts.co.uk – Jaguar parts supplier) – no effect.
Dynamics of the temperature jump seems to be consistent with what might be an air pocket, though I have hard time to explain how and why air bubble gets accumulated?
I don’t believe it is a blown gasket. Abonano have already explained why (thank you J)
It seems a good time to donate the car. What keeps going is that with this problem it is not good even for donation L
My next suspects – heater valve and auxiliary water pump. Theory is: those are the only two components in the way of coolant flow from the expansion tank back to the engine. If activation of heater valve (switching climate control ON) makes hight temperature go away then may be this flow is restricted before that? Bought heater valve already. Will keep you updated.
Same problem here. It is almost two years sins I am trying to solve it with no success. My 2000 Jaguar S-Type 4.0 with 170,000 miles on it runs flawlessly accept these engine temperature jumps.
I went through a dozen of theories about the cause of this fault and eliminated them one by one. What have been done (in chronological order):
1. Thermostat replacement (boiled thermostat to verify opening temperature) – no effect.
2. Water pump replacement (it has metal impeller now) – no effect.
3. Expansion tank cap replacement – no effect.
4. Engine temperature measurements at the moment of temperature rise at the gage using laser thermometer, max temperature observed on cylinder block 221 deg F. Conclusion: it is not a false signal but rather a short term rise that can be caused by trapped air pocket.
5. Cooling system flash/back-flash, coolant replacement, cooling system leak check (at dealership) – no effect.
6. Driving with thermostat removed for two weeks – fan was on at low RPM as expected but gage never moved from nominal ! Fault is gone when thermostat removed.
7. Thermostat replacement (again, just in case) – fault is back, no effect.
8. Thermostat manifold replacement with aftermarket one made of aluminum (from britishparts.co.uk – Jaguar parts supplier) – no effect.
Dynamics of the temperature jump seems to be consistent with what might be an air pocket, though I have hard time to explain how and why air bubble gets accumulated?
I don’t believe it is a blown gasket. Abonano have already explained why (thank you J)
It seems a good time to donate the car. What keeps going is that with this problem it is not good even for donation L
My next suspects – heater valve and auxiliary water pump. Theory is: those are the only two components in the way of coolant flow from the expansion tank back to the engine. If activation of heater valve (switching climate control ON) makes hight temperature go away then may be this flow is restricted before that? Bought heater valve already. Will keep you updated.
#35
06-11-2014, 10:45 PM
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Hi DaveW, thank you for replying. I have no doubt our cases of overheating are identical. But I find it hard to believe it is a blown gasket. How came there is no coolant loss for two years, and no dynamics in the fault – ones exhaust gas that got into the cooling system get purged by switching climate control ON and OFF it stops leaking in there? I can imagine those symptoms being caused by a solenoid valve that is not fully opened by default because it is old and faulty and then it gets opened when coil is energized and stays opened for the rest of the day – something like that…
Now, my speculations aside, can you confirm you get rid of the overheating problem by replacing a head gasket. Have you found and inspected the damaged spot on the gasket? How it looks like?
Now, my speculations aside, can you confirm you get rid of the overheating problem by replacing a head gasket. Have you found and inspected the damaged spot on the gasket? How it looks like?
#36
06-11-2014, 11:33 PM
#37
06-11-2014, 11:48 PM
200S-Type overheatingl
This is only the 2nd major repair I have had to pay for.
The 1st repair was done because all 4 windows fell into their respective doors just after the 3 year warranty had expired. Jaguar claimed this was not a manufacturing defect. Ya right!
That cost me a total of about $5500.00.
That comes out to about $1000.00 a year total.
I don't feel to badly about it. I love this car! It's beautiful and has enough power for an old woman like me!
The 1st repair was done because all 4 windows fell into their respective doors just after the 3 year warranty had expired. Jaguar claimed this was not a manufacturing defect. Ya right!
That cost me a total of about $5500.00.
That comes out to about $1000.00 a year total.
I don't feel to badly about it. I love this car! It's beautiful and has enough power for an old woman like me!
#38
06-12-2014, 09:05 AM
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#39
06-12-2014, 02:20 PM
Hi DaveW, thank you for replying. I have no doubt our cases of overheating are identical. But I find it hard to believe it is a blown gasket. How came there is no coolant loss for two years,
The pressure from combustion when the spark plug ignites is great enough to squeak through the faulty gasket and into the coolant system but the pressure in the coolant system is not enough the compromise the gasket back into the cylinder.
and no dynamics in the fault – ones exhaust gas that got into the cooling system get purged by switching climate control ON and OFF it stops leaking in there? I can imagine those symptoms being caused by a solenoid valve that is not fully opened by default because it is old and faulty and then it gets opened when coil is energized and stays opened for the rest of the day – something like that…
if you can see the expansion tank when the engine is overheating and then the climate control is turned on, you will see the air being purged out into the expansion tank as a big burping bubble which will allow the thermostat to open and cool the engine normally.
when the engine starts to overheat it pushes coolant into the expansion tank, i believe the coolant can only return from the expansion tank to the engine when the climate control is turned on which activates the aux water pump.
Some have described this coolant system as one of the most confounded they have ever seen.
Now, my speculations aside, can you confirm you get rid of the overheating problem by replacing a head gasket. Have you found and inspected the damaged spot on the gasket? How it looks like?
The pressure from combustion when the spark plug ignites is great enough to squeak through the faulty gasket and into the coolant system but the pressure in the coolant system is not enough the compromise the gasket back into the cylinder.
and no dynamics in the fault – ones exhaust gas that got into the cooling system get purged by switching climate control ON and OFF it stops leaking in there? I can imagine those symptoms being caused by a solenoid valve that is not fully opened by default because it is old and faulty and then it gets opened when coil is energized and stays opened for the rest of the day – something like that…
if you can see the expansion tank when the engine is overheating and then the climate control is turned on, you will see the air being purged out into the expansion tank as a big burping bubble which will allow the thermostat to open and cool the engine normally.
when the engine starts to overheat it pushes coolant into the expansion tank, i believe the coolant can only return from the expansion tank to the engine when the climate control is turned on which activates the aux water pump.
Some have described this coolant system as one of the most confounded they have ever seen.
Now, my speculations aside, can you confirm you get rid of the overheating problem by replacing a head gasket. Have you found and inspected the damaged spot on the gasket? How it looks like?
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Norri (06-12-2014)
#40
06-13-2014, 03:32 PM
2000S-Type overheating
$14000 divided by 14 = $1000.00 per year.
But wait! My car was delivered Thursday. Now it won't go into gear! It is back at the dealership for the 4th time. I am waiting to hear from them, probably on Monday.
What could they have done to create this problem? I have never had any transmission trouble with my car. Does anyone have an explanation for this?