Ladies/Gents,

I'm a very recent S Type owner but have previously owned a few X Types. I recently purchased a S Type SE while I was working overseas and had my "old man" pick it up for me. At time of purchase the car drove fine with no faults. The car has been sitting for about 6 weeks in a drive without being started in the Scottish winter. Fast forward to my return to the U.K. a few days ago and the S Type is awash with faults. Upon inserting the key in the ignition I see:
- ABS fault
- DSC fault
- Parking break failure (with red break light constantly illuminated, although I don't actually think the electronic brake is engaged)
- Fuel Computer Data Error
- Odometer showing "-----", although if you cycle the key through position '0' to 'II' it'll flash the mileage.
- Speedo not working
- Key fob no longer paired (swapped battery in fob but no help)

I've scoured this forum as well as others, and personally it looks to me like electrical gremlins. Maybe bad wiring or water somewhere it shouldn't be. I've read about low battery issues and I checked the no load voltage and read 12.2V. I never had any issue starting the car after the 6week "rest" it had so I don't know if it is feasible that the battery could be causing electrical faults. I've got an OBD2 winging its way here (I know this doesn't run ABS codes) but I wanted to check here before I think about dealers and how they like to make a (tight) Scotsman part with his money! Would appreciate any assistance. Thanks,
Shaun.

 

Welcome to the forum Shaun,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to S-Type forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

Shaun, you do not mention the MY. Could be a couple of things. Check for water in the boot, be sure to remove spare tire as well hen looking. Preface lift MY's have issues there.

To me it sounds like a failing battery, check the age. I am attaching 2 good reads. Hopefully they will help you resolve the issue promptly and without great expense,

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...e-stuck-32699/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ilable-141375/

 

Change the battery first.
Then report back.

We have seen this a thousand times. It should be an easy fix.
.
.
.

 

copied from Jim_s_v6-2004

Flat is 12.0 volts and below, full is 12.6+ volts. Anything between is proportionally charged.

12.2 volts is about the limit that everything should work, but there is a 0.4 volts drop on the so electronics modules only get 11.8 volts and can throw wobblies.

Once you confirm it is showing 12.6-12.7 volts with the engine not running...

You could do a hard reset by disconnecting the battery cables and touching them together for 10-20 seconds.

You will need your radio code first.

Then do the following resets including the accelerator pedal limits, which is the suspect since it happens on kickdown?:

 

Gents,

I appreciate the feedback, so thanks.

I'm not quite up with the "MY" nomenclature but if I missed out some info about the car then it's a 2007, 2.7D auto with about 75k on the clock. Full dealer service history up until now.

From what I am reading it does seem like the battery could be at fault here. I'll aim to get that sorted here tomorrow if I can or in the next couple of days at worst, then I'll report back as you suggest.

To 'Ducman', I didn't get the last part of your post, it looked like there was more info to be copied that got chopped off there?? I did think about doing a "reset" by disconnecting the battery but I was unsure about causing more harm than good. Anyhow, I look to change the battery and move on from there.

Much obliged for all the help fellas. Cheers now.

Shaun

 

oops here is the link for the resets
http://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=78977 and this is for the kick down https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/throttle-range-calibration-after-battery-disconnection-176446/
Ducmon

 

"MY" = Model Year

 

Alright folks, quick update on the situation with the jag...

Got the battery changed and unfortunately no help!!! The previous battery was OEM and definitely needed changing, the boot compartment pops open with vigour now where previously it only opened when the motor was running.

That's the positive, the negative is that all of the previous faults are still there and now with a couple more (traction control unavailable), and most annoyingly the re is a constant beeping due to the EPB fault...hence not good!

The cheapo OBPII I plugged in diagnosed a couple of faults that can't be cleared: U0121 and P1934. Digging around here and in other forums suggest that these two codes might signify an issue with the ABS module, but who knows. I tried to clear the codes but clearly there are gremlins that are still there, and the cheapo tool doesn't let me into the ABS module to look deeper into the issue. I've got the vehicle booked in to an indy jag guy who's got an electrical background next week so hopefully I'll get somewhere...without to much outlay, I might add!!!

Just thought I'd give you all a bit of an update. Cheers.

 

Weirdly (?) a small number of other jag owners have had the same if you google/web search.

Maybe do whatever they did.

I cannot yet find a genuine Jaguar meaning for P1934 (being P1 it will be jag-specific).

 

If it is the ABS module you can get them rebuilt. This is easier than using a second hand one or a new one because they don't have to programmed to allow them to be used in the car. Just google jaguar ABS module repair.

 

Thanks guys. I have researched the issue and have seen the posts from others that have had this exact issue. One of the persons ended up redoing their ABS module and I think another I read had to 'reconnect' a wire that powered a pin on the supply to the module. So not necessarily a smoking gun. I guess the common theme is a loss of comma between the ABS module and the ECU is the cause of the failure, which is pretty much what it says on the U0121 code. I just need to find out why the problem exists on my jag.

One other common theme on some of the faults is hat a few people had had their vehicle sitting for a while/weak battery etc. In my case the vehicle was perfect, no issues, then it was left idle for 6 or so weeks then boom...faults aplenty! Whether the weak battery actually causes damage to something or just confuses the onboard 'brains' I've no idea. Hopefully I'll find out shortly. I'll keep you all posted.

Appreciate the help fellas.

 

Normally just causes confusion that clears when battery is fully working (often, new).

 

Have you tried a hard reset? This will set everything back to factory settings. You can either do it by disconnecting the battery earth for a few hours to discharge the capacitors or by removing both battery leads and touching them together for a few seconds.
You need to have the radio code and do these things http://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=78977 and don't forget to do this as well https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/throttle-range-calibration-after-battery-disconnection-176446/

 

. . . and I remain, with identical car and MY to yours that I can rely on to produce exactly this list of symptoms (and more) once unattended and without a smart charger (battery tender) connected, still suspicious of your battery. No way my car will last a month without it's smart charger. Oh . . . and there is a progression of NON-faults that a dying battery will report . . . EPB; then CRUISE; then ABS and DSC; followed by the daddy of all . . . faults in TCM control and a very real LIMP mode. What is less predictable is the array (or absence) or fault codes.

We should have "Battery 101 for S-Type Owners" to be found in the FAQ Sticky at the head of this section, engraved into the forehead of every newly arriving S-Type owner. Given the intense work so many of us put into writing it up and given the hundreds, if not thousands of posts similar to yours . . . I find it disappointing to still find that there is such misunderstanding of how "tight" is this model's headroom between what battery standing voltage will "start" the car versus what voltage is required to correctly "run" the car.

We KNOW that . . .

• anything less than 12.6V is asking for trouble;
• that is 12.6V - not something less as reported here;
• a new battery does not equate to a fully charged battery;
• there are examples here of new battery being worse;
• fully charge and TEST new battery . . . and THEN review.

Of course you may have a serious malfunction elsewhere, but your symptoms and how they arose are picture perfect for a dying or dead battery and you have not reported charging new battery nor your current battery voltage. Please, at least review the article referred to. Note, in particular, the thousands of dollars wasted in parts replacements thrown at the wrong problem. If I'm wrong about your solution? . . . Hey, apologies in advance, but many hundreds have not been wrong about the logic of where to start checking . . . and why!

Cheers and best wishes,

Ken

 

Sorry to double post, but one clarification I failed to make either here or in original write-up referred to . . . the problem is NOT caused by a dying, flat or near-dead battery . . . it is caused by using that dying, flat or near-dead battery to START the car . . . perhaps successfully . . . but at a battery voltage that sees PCMs across your car failing one after another.

Cheers,

Ken