I've had my '03 S-type (3.0 Litre) Jag since it was new and absolutely love it. It currently has 43,000 miles and the A/C has stopped cooling at idle. I live in Austin, Tx and today has been the 21st day in a row of over 100 degree temp. Almost all of my driving is in stop and go traffic and it is unbearable. When I get around 15 mph and above it cools just fine. Also, when stopped, if I put the transmission in neutral and rev up the engine I can feel the cold air kick in. I read about a similar problem in the X-type forum but couldn't figure out how they fixed it (if they did).
Any help and ideas will be greatly appreciated, as I can't afford for our local dealership to start randomly changing out parts [and I surely won't ever be able to afford one of the new Jags!]

 

msmartha, here are a couple of threads that might be of interest.

I had the samething happen to our '05 and I changed out the compressor and all is well. I also know that several other members did the same.

This link could solve your problem, besure to read post #5: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ds-help-58662/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-55212/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-55219/

The last 2 are what is needed to be done as far as replacing the compressor and charging the AC system.

 

Thanks for the quick reply Rick. You the man!!! Can anyone suggest a good A/C person in the Austin, Tx area or do you think I should use the dealership?
Ms Martha

 

Ms Martha,

I'd suggest a good AC shop rather than the dealer.

You might want to print the TSB that shows the valve mod and ask their opinion.

 

I just recently performed the Valve Mod on a 2005 S-Type 3.0 and it fixed the poor cooling issue. The 'O'ring seal was about $13.00 but it might not be needed if the original is still flexible. I would replace it if I had it and I keep one in stock.

bob gauff

 

I know it is an old thread but I'm wondering if you got the issue fixed by that TSB?

I'm having exact same issue... A/C works well on highway as soon as I stop it gradually starts blowing warm air?

Thanks a lot!

 

The TSB works. You will have to examine your car to see if it applies.

 

Thanks JagV8, I have just dropped my car at a shop to have it checked.

Thanks again.

 

Hi, will this work on a 2000 Stype V8 as well? I am hoping so, I was told its an expansion valve issue, but noone has officially been able to diagnose it.

 

No, this fix only applies to the V6 engine A/C Compressors...

UPDATE: According to Brutal if the plate with 2 bolts is present in the back of the compressor than the TSB originally identified for V6 compressors does apply to the V8 compressors. So, it's worth a try foytech...

 

Too bad, I was kinda hoping for a quick fix. Looks like I am stuck replacing the expansion valve and the evaporator core.

Have you had any issues with your V8 regarding the A/C? I just replaced my heater valve last week due to heater not blowing hot air. I had the A/C issue prior to the heater valve malfunctioning.

 

This TB has left me scratching my head. Somebody somewhere goofed.

As manufactured, the spring forces the valve (piston like thing) against the plate. There was a reason for this.

The fix is to move the spring from behind the valve to in front of it, now pushing the valve away from the plate.

Hello? WTH is going on? It kind of makes you wonder if the valve is even necessary.

 

I did have a similar issue - turned out to be a low freon charge. (I thought expansion valve also originially - but from what I understand - they rarely go south unless something catastrophic happens within the system) - also, check the front lower portion of your compressor for wetness right below the clutch. My seal is compromised. I have a brand new Motorcraft A/C compressor and dehydrator ready to be installed before the spring despite the fact the compressor has held the freon charge since June of last year...

I would suggest getting the freon charge checked before throwing parts at the problem. (Even if you change the parts you are going to have to perform a recovery, vacuum and refill) Good Luck!

 

Thanks for that!

My 2005 STR has a small yellow oil leak from what looks like that plate on the back of the compressor. I was thinking that I would need to replace the compressor but a $13 O-ring and not removing the compressor sounds much better!!

Anyone replace just the O-ring because of leakage?
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Compressors typically start leaking refrigerant oil or dye when their bearings begin to give up the ghost. Very rarely is just a failed O-ring the source of the actual problem. But maybe you'll get lucky....

 

Yes that matches what happened to my wife's 2003 Lincoln LS. I got a yellow stain from the center of the compressor and it seems kind of common for them to leak that way. I changed the compressor and filter/dryer.

My 2005 STR has a very minor yellow stain and it's concentrated and looks to be coming from the plate over this valve.
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Check my update added in Post #10

 

You could also try the el cheapo solution. While at a stoplight put the trans in neutral and rev up the engine to 1500 rpms or so until you feel cool air. Or while in heavy traffic, switch to a lower gear.

 

the $13 seal motorcarman is refferring to is the one for the plate on the back. Ive never seen a leak from there. the leaking areas are the midcase seal where the compressor splits open for rebuild and the front shaft seal.
Heima it was there originally and removed later as I guess they figured it caused more issues withit than without as is often the case

 

That is what I found on the Lincoln LS forum too. The center case O-ring seems to start leaking. Stains yellow on the bottom of the compressor and everything works fine for a while until the oil is all gone then the compressor starts eating itself. Then the debris goes all thru the system in the famous "Black Death" type failure.

So I changed the compressor before it lost too much oil. My 2005 STR has just a small yellow stain and it's not coming from the middle seam but from the end where the plate is.
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