S-Type R passenger door not opening from in- or outside
Hi all,
Does anyone have any suggestions to remove the passanger door card without opening the door? Or am gonna have to break/saw the panel in half and find a replacement?
As stated, my passenger door had been acting up for a couple of months (specifics below) but last week I noticed the door no longer unlocks from neither the inside nor outside.
Unlocking the doors using the fob or the button on the center console works for all doors except the passenger door.
Specifics (somewhat chronological order):
1. Roughly a year back, the car would randomly lock, unlock, re-lock, unlock when using the fob to open the car. I swapped the fob battery, no change.
This starts (or rather started) happening the car was not on a level surface and closing the passanger door. The following days it COULD show the lock, unlock, re-lock behaviour.
2. 6-7 months back the fob stopped working, took it to a locksmith yada yada, problem on car side yada yada, drive door module corroded contacts, replaced the module, reprogrammed and it worked again.
3. Last 2-3 months the car would always relock the car within 2-3 sec after unlocking it (fob or keyhole), and if I remember right, locking latch on the inside (above the dior handle) felt disconnected. It still had the spring resistance but wouldn't click when pulled.
4. A month back I was looking into the passanger side windshield heater and wanted to take a closer look at the connector, so wanted to enter through the passanger door, but all handles (inside, outside, locking latch etc) wouldn't do anything. Like the locking latch 2-3 months back they all 'died' (all 3 still have the spring resistance but don't do anything).
I'm thinking it's either one of 2 things:
A. Passanger side door module damage/corossion
B. The locking mechanism cable has disconnected.
Both of these would have me open the door up, but since the door itself can't open, I can't take off the door card!...
What's worse, the door card extends past the glove box on the front, and a hard plastic/rubber seal on the back of the door..
Does anyone have any suggestions to remove the passanger door card without opening the door? Or am gonna have to break/saw the panel in half and find a replacement?
As stated, my passenger door had been acting up for a couple of months (specifics below) but last week I noticed the door no longer unlocks from neither the inside nor outside.
Unlocking the doors using the fob or the button on the center console works for all doors except the passenger door.
Specifics (somewhat chronological order):
1. Roughly a year back, the car would randomly lock, unlock, re-lock, unlock when using the fob to open the car. I swapped the fob battery, no change.
This starts (or rather started) happening the car was not on a level surface and closing the passanger door. The following days it COULD show the lock, unlock, re-lock behaviour.
2. 6-7 months back the fob stopped working, took it to a locksmith yada yada, problem on car side yada yada, drive door module corroded contacts, replaced the module, reprogrammed and it worked again.
3. Last 2-3 months the car would always relock the car within 2-3 sec after unlocking it (fob or keyhole), and if I remember right, locking latch on the inside (above the dior handle) felt disconnected. It still had the spring resistance but wouldn't click when pulled.
4. A month back I was looking into the passanger side windshield heater and wanted to take a closer look at the connector, so wanted to enter through the passanger door, but all handles (inside, outside, locking latch etc) wouldn't do anything. Like the locking latch 2-3 months back they all 'died' (all 3 still have the spring resistance but don't do anything).
I'm thinking it's either one of 2 things:
A. Passanger side door module damage/corossion
B. The locking mechanism cable has disconnected.
Both of these would have me open the door up, but since the door itself can't open, I can't take off the door card!...
What's worse, the door card extends past the glove box on the front, and a hard plastic/rubber seal on the back of the door..
Last edited by Shade; Jan 10, 2024 at 07:06 AM. Reason: moved the main question to the top
Any chance you have or can get a "Jimmy" tool? In the US most car lock smiths are experts at getting inside locked cars. There are thin tools that slide between the glass and rubber seal to try and catch something inside the door? Might be worth a call to a local guy and explain what you have? The cars are made to prevent this so it may not work? But you have access to both sides of the door so he might be able to snag the interior cable running from the interior door handle to the door latch.
At least before assaulting your door panel!
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At least before assaulting your door panel!
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Can't speak for Jaguar, but most newer cars do have provisions to block a slim-jim or similar tools.
Rather than break apart the door panel, try removing the panel on the opposite door. You now have an "Alabama blueprint" to give you an idea of how all the pieces are supposed to work. You can also determine if a slim-jim would work and if so, exactly how to position it.
Rather than break apart the door panel, try removing the panel on the opposite door. You now have an "Alabama blueprint" to give you an idea of how all the pieces are supposed to work. You can also determine if a slim-jim would work and if so, exactly how to position it.
Yes having the drivers door apart will give you a good look at what is needed.
Post back if you do get it open as we have had a number of people with doors stuck closed and no way to get them open.
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Post back if you do get it open as we have had a number of people with doors stuck closed and no way to get them open.
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One more thought: Let's say using the driver's door as a guide, you determine a slim-jim wouldn't work snaked down next to the glass. Don't despair.
I vaguely remember something about Honda being one of the first manufacturers to install a guard to block a slim-jim. This was maybe 20+ years ago. Enterprising young neer-do-wells figured a workaround. If you jabbed an ice pick through the sheetmetal, at a specific spot near the exterior handle, you could pry up on the linkage and unlock the door in a matter of seconds.
Now I'm not remotely suggesting you come in with an ice pick from the outside. But do evaluate the driver's door to figure out if there's some way to move the linkage. The answer might be to neatly drill a small hole from the inside for the ice pick trick. You could figure out the exact spot using the driver's door. Once unlocked, the only evidence would be a small hole in the inner panel.
If the only way is from the outside, see if a hole would work through the base of the door handle. This would not be very noticeable at all. You could plug the hole with a bit of sealer, or if it really bugs you, find a replacement on eBay.
I vaguely remember something about Honda being one of the first manufacturers to install a guard to block a slim-jim. This was maybe 20+ years ago. Enterprising young neer-do-wells figured a workaround. If you jabbed an ice pick through the sheetmetal, at a specific spot near the exterior handle, you could pry up on the linkage and unlock the door in a matter of seconds.
Now I'm not remotely suggesting you come in with an ice pick from the outside. But do evaluate the driver's door to figure out if there's some way to move the linkage. The answer might be to neatly drill a small hole from the inside for the ice pick trick. You could figure out the exact spot using the driver's door. Once unlocked, the only evidence would be a small hole in the inner panel.
If the only way is from the outside, see if a hole would work through the base of the door handle. This would not be very noticeable at all. You could plug the hole with a bit of sealer, or if it really bugs you, find a replacement on eBay.
Last edited by kr98664; Jan 12, 2024 at 10:05 AM.
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Maybe aka deadlocked
Here, many cars can be locked such that the unlock levers/button(s) do nothing, so attempts to open a door by such as smashing a side window then reaching in to open a door don't result in an open door.
It's important not to be trapped inside without a key in that situation...
Here, many cars can be locked such that the unlock levers/button(s) do nothing, so attempts to open a door by such as smashing a side window then reaching in to open a door don't result in an open door.
It's important not to be trapped inside without a key in that situation...
Last edited by JagV8; Jan 13, 2024 at 04:27 AM.
What happens is the double locking mechanism breaks on that one door. So when you hit the unlock the other three doors unlocked but the door that’s broken stays locked
See if there’s anything in this post ttis post that can help you
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ocking-117575/
and
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/rear-door-lock-actuator-fix-w-pics-faq-65657/#post446998
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ocking-117575/
and
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/rear-door-lock-actuator-fix-w-pics-faq-65657/#post446998
Last edited by Aarcuda; Jan 13, 2024 at 01:30 PM.
Well, some progress.
By moving the passanger seat all the way back, and tilting the backrest all the way back aswell, I managed to get the panel out without opening the door.
Like normal remove the 2 screws in the.. door.. grip... spot.. and start pulling on the REAR side first. It will release partially, but the front of the panel is held in by a plastic clip/holder which requires you to move the panel towards the front of the car (which is impossible currently..) so I had to bust this clip/holder using a crow-/pry bar.
The damage is minimal (only replacement being the clip. that is, if I can't just slide it back in)
I was expecting a module similair to the driver door module to be in the car, but it's just a whole lotta nothing!
I checked the cable between the latch and inner door handle, same as the rod between the latch and outer door handle... Anyway mechanically everything seems fine. I think the latch (servo/motor) died..
When using the key fob it doesn't make a beep, screech or crunch (or hoot).
I tried unplugging the cable, and locking the car, which gave me a double, double honk. ('warning, passanger door ajar' iirc) so the door ajar sensor seems fine..
Next up: find a way to open the latch without a brick of C4! (But atleast the inner panel is off)
I'll start by asking around (local Specialist, dealers et al) if they happen know any magic tricks. After which I might phone up some locksmiths. Wish me luck!
P.s.: reinserting the latch connector immediately locked all doors again.
So I guess it's reading the latch/door as locked and applying this state to the rest of the doors aswell?
By moving the passanger seat all the way back, and tilting the backrest all the way back aswell, I managed to get the panel out without opening the door.
Like normal remove the 2 screws in the.. door.. grip... spot.. and start pulling on the REAR side first. It will release partially, but the front of the panel is held in by a plastic clip/holder which requires you to move the panel towards the front of the car (which is impossible currently..) so I had to bust this clip/holder using a crow-/pry bar.
The damage is minimal (only replacement being the clip. that is, if I can't just slide it back in)
I was expecting a module similair to the driver door module to be in the car, but it's just a whole lotta nothing!
I checked the cable between the latch and inner door handle, same as the rod between the latch and outer door handle... Anyway mechanically everything seems fine. I think the latch (servo/motor) died..
When using the key fob it doesn't make a beep, screech or crunch (or hoot).
I tried unplugging the cable, and locking the car, which gave me a double, double honk. ('warning, passanger door ajar' iirc) so the door ajar sensor seems fine..
Next up: find a way to open the latch without a brick of C4! (But atleast the inner panel is off)
I'll start by asking around (local Specialist, dealers et al) if they happen know any magic tricks. After which I might phone up some locksmiths. Wish me luck!
P.s.: reinserting the latch connector immediately locked all doors again.
So I guess it's reading the latch/door as locked and applying this state to the rest of the doors aswell?
Last edited by Shade; Jan 16, 2024 at 09:38 AM. Reason: fixed some typos
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