S Type R Rear Brake Job: Help Please!
#21
10-26-2010, 08:05 PM
Member
I found pads and discs everywhere for my STR, even when Brembo. I used autopartswarehouse.com and though they don't have a perfectly accurate website I called them gave them my VIN after I researched the parts and picked the right parts with free shipping. I purchased 4 discs and front and rear pad sets (maybe $550 total, OEM replacement quality). I couldn't find the OEM quality parking brake pads anywhere but the dealer. Why would anyone carry them, the separate parking brake caliper is over engineered and difficult, hence no longer used. And I dont know what other vehicle uses them.
But go with Ceramic. Semi, metalic, etc I've found are noisey and the dust is problematic.
I don't know what the previous owner on my STR 2005 was doing to waste the parking brake pads! But my other stype 3.0 I never had to worry about that.
But go with Ceramic. Semi, metalic, etc I've found are noisey and the dust is problematic.
I don't know what the previous owner on my STR 2005 was doing to waste the parking brake pads! But my other stype 3.0 I never had to worry about that.
Last edited by chrislynn5; 10-26-2010 at 08:08 PM.
#22
10-26-2010, 09:04 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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I found pads and discs everywhere for my STR, even when Brembo. I used autopartswarehouse.com and though they don't have a perfectly accurate website I called them gave them my VIN after I researched the parts and picked the right parts with free shipping. I purchased 4 discs and front and rear pad sets (maybe $550 total, OEM replacement quality). I couldn't find the OEM quality parking brake pads anywhere but the dealer. Why would anyone carry them, the separate parking brake caliper is over engineered and difficult, hence no longer used. And I dont know what other vehicle uses them.
But go with Ceramic. Semi, metalic, etc I've found are noisey and the dust is problematic.
I don't know what the previous owner on my STR 2005 was doing to waste the parking brake pads! But my other stype 3.0 I never had to worry about that.
But go with Ceramic. Semi, metalic, etc I've found are noisey and the dust is problematic.
I don't know what the previous owner on my STR 2005 was doing to waste the parking brake pads! But my other stype 3.0 I never had to worry about that.
#23
08-31-2011, 08:05 AM
More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 0899001
Don't know if the 2nd link below will show up for you but it's what I've paid for them with two day shipping.
Part NumberPart TypePrice EACore EAQuantityTotal2005 JAGUAR S-TYPE R 4.2L 4196cc V8 FI Supercharged DOHCBECK/ARNLEY0899001 (089-9001)Parking Brake Pad$ 76.79$ 0.001$ 76.79Shipping2 Business Day Express$ 8.50Order Total$ 85.29
Here's the part number just in case.
BECK/ARNLEY Part #0899001
Last edited by Norri; 08-31-2011 at 09:45 AM.
#24
08-31-2011, 08:08 AM
I found pads and discs everywhere for my STR, even when Brembo. I used autopartswarehouse.com and though they don't have a perfectly accurate website I called them gave them my VIN after I researched the parts and picked the right parts with free shipping. I purchased 4 discs and front and rear pad sets (maybe $550 total, OEM replacement quality). I couldn't find the OEM quality parking brake pads anywhere but the dealer. Why would anyone carry them, the separate parking brake caliper is over engineered and difficult, hence no longer used. And I dont know what other vehicle uses them.
But go with Ceramic. Semi, metalic, etc I've found are noisey and the dust is problematic.
I don't know what the previous owner on my STR 2005 was doing to waste the parking brake pads! But my other stype 3.0 I never had to worry about that.
But go with Ceramic. Semi, metalic, etc I've found are noisey and the dust is problematic.
I don't know what the previous owner on my STR 2005 was doing to waste the parking brake pads! But my other stype 3.0 I never had to worry about that.
Exactly, how in the He double hockey Sticks do you burn out the parking brake(s)? When you engage the car in drive, the parking brake disengages. When you stop and put the car in park, it engages.... Beats me what whatever.....
#25
08-31-2011, 08:17 AM
Veteran Member
Engage it (often?) while moving (it's an emergency brake as well as P brake)
Have the ****ing thing in a confused state. It'll leave it dragging even though it's "not applied"
Allow the Bowden cable(s) to stick - same result.
#26
08-31-2011, 09:48 AM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
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I don't know if you meant to include your address with the link, I've deleted it just in case but pasted in the relevant price info.
Norri
#27
08-31-2011, 09:25 PM
I didn't really mean to Norri. Thanks for pulling the excessive information out. I was more interested in people just knowing where to get those pads than the overkill of information I posted. You (as usual) did a stellar job of removing my other data, irrelevant to the parking brake pads themselves.
#28
08-31-2011, 09:34 PM
#29
09-01-2011, 06:54 AM
Member
I'm late on this, so it might already have been said. In an earlier post I stated that my parking brake pads were gone in only 38k. They must drag becuase I get a lot more black coating my rear rims. I also have a 2005 STR, sliver, and got the parking pads at the dealer for I think $124 a set. They are a bitch to change! It's a mechanical caliper. There is a special tool but I got by by rigging a set of needle nose pilers. But beware, it sucks! Eseically when these things get stuck on and do not want to come off. I ruined a set of rotors by not changing the parkings pads.
I changed all four rotors and pads for something around (sorry I lied before and am now editing) $700. The dealer wanted $900 for only front with only turning rotors! Makre sure they are Brembo pads.
I changed all four rotors and pads for something around (sorry I lied before and am now editing) $700. The dealer wanted $900 for only front with only turning rotors! Makre sure they are Brembo pads.
Last edited by chrislynn5; 09-01-2011 at 08:20 PM.
#30
09-01-2011, 04:14 PM
I'm late on this, so it might already have been said. In an earlier post I stated that my parking brake pads were gone in only 38k. They must drag becuase I get a lot more black coating my rear rims. I also have a 2005 STR, sliver, and got the parking pads at the dealer for I think $124 a set. They are a bitch to change! It's a mechanical caliper. There is a special tool but I got by by rigging a set of needle nose pilers. But beware, it sucks! Eseically when these things get stuck on and do not want to come off. I ruined a set of rotors by not changing the parkings pads.
I changed all four rotors and pads for something around $450-500. The dealer wanted $900 for only front with only turning rotors! Makre sure they are Brembo pads.
I changed all four rotors and pads for something around $450-500. The dealer wanted $900 for only front with only turning rotors! Makre sure they are Brembo pads.
#31
09-01-2011, 05:08 PM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
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#32
09-01-2011, 05:13 PM
Senior Member
#33
09-01-2011, 07:07 PM
#34
09-01-2011, 07:25 PM
#35
09-01-2011, 08:18 PM
Member
I forget the name of the tool, but what was said earlier sounds about right. I purchased on eBay a JITS cd (Jaguar manual) that has all the service bulletins and procedures in it. I found that if you can get the rear parking brake caliper apart, I couldn't, it might make turn the pads cylinder back easier. This is important since it's mechanical there are steps to get it released or the car will lock them and you won't be able to remove anything. Can you get a copy of JITS or look online here for the Brembo rear procedure??????
#36
09-02-2011, 05:41 AM
Veteran Member
It's a regular wind-back tool with an end like this picture. It would help if someone would measure the pin sizes and spacing
Over here, I think it may be Laser 1314 but just borrow the AZ one lol
As I recall (!), each side winds back in the same direction but I may be wrong.......
(trivial with the tool)
You should carry out the EPB calibration process (FAQs) after doing this, apparently, as otherwise I think the module tends to leave them dragging on the discs.
You can prevent the EPB from auto-applying as I think has been said by holding its paddle down as you turn off the engine and remove the key. You may need your foot on the brake as you do that.
I WOULD NOT WORK ON THESE WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION FOR FEAR OF TRIGGERING THE AUTO-APPLY.
(You can apply them any time by lifting the EPB paddle. I think that's even with the key out! You cannot unapply them without jumping through hoops.)
If you remove the caliper retaining bolts (as distinct from the pad retaining pins), jag say you should discard and replace them. They are not designed for reuse.
Over here, I think it may be Laser 1314 but just borrow the AZ one lol
As I recall (!), each side winds back in the same direction but I may be wrong.......
(trivial with the tool)
You should carry out the EPB calibration process (FAQs) after doing this, apparently, as otherwise I think the module tends to leave them dragging on the discs.
You can prevent the EPB from auto-applying as I think has been said by holding its paddle down as you turn off the engine and remove the key. You may need your foot on the brake as you do that.
I WOULD NOT WORK ON THESE WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION FOR FEAR OF TRIGGERING THE AUTO-APPLY.
(You can apply them any time by lifting the EPB paddle. I think that's even with the key out! You cannot unapply them without jumping through hoops.)
If you remove the caliper retaining bolts (as distinct from the pad retaining pins), jag say you should discard and replace them. They are not designed for reuse.
Last edited by JagV8; 09-02-2011 at 05:55 AM.
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#37
09-02-2011, 06:57 AM
It's a regular wind-back tool with an end like this picture. It would help if someone would measure the pin sizes and spacing
Over here, I think it may be Laser 1314 but just borrow the AZ one lol
As I recall (!), each side winds back in the same direction but I may be wrong.......
(trivial with the tool)
You should carry out the EPB calibration process (FAQs) after doing this, apparently, as otherwise I think the module tends to leave them dragging on the discs.
You can prevent the EPB from auto-applying as I think has been said by holding its paddle down as you turn off the engine and remove the key. You may need your foot on the brake as you do that.
I WOULD NOT WORK ON THESE WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION FOR FEAR OF TRIGGERING THE AUTO-APPLY.
(You can apply them any time by lifting the EPB paddle. I think that's even with the key out! You cannot unapply them without jumping through hoops.)
If you remove the caliper retaining bolts (as distinct from the pad retaining pins), jag say you should discard and replace them. They are not designed for reuse.
Over here, I think it may be Laser 1314 but just borrow the AZ one lol
As I recall (!), each side winds back in the same direction but I may be wrong.......
(trivial with the tool)
You should carry out the EPB calibration process (FAQs) after doing this, apparently, as otherwise I think the module tends to leave them dragging on the discs.
You can prevent the EPB from auto-applying as I think has been said by holding its paddle down as you turn off the engine and remove the key. You may need your foot on the brake as you do that.
I WOULD NOT WORK ON THESE WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION FOR FEAR OF TRIGGERING THE AUTO-APPLY.
(You can apply them any time by lifting the EPB paddle. I think that's even with the key out! You cannot unapply them without jumping through hoops.)
If you remove the caliper retaining bolts (as distinct from the pad retaining pins), jag say you should discard and replace them. They are not designed for reuse.
#39
09-02-2011, 08:42 AM
Veteran Member
#40
09-02-2011, 10:41 AM
Veteran Member