Does someone have a step by step of how to replace the serpentine belt on S-Type, 3.0

Thanks

Tom (lost in Dallas)

2005 S-Type 3.0

 

Tom do you have the routing sticker on the radiator splash guard? That tells you where the tensioner is and the way the belt goes back on.

Hint: if you are looking at your belt it appears that a few things have to be removed but they don't, its quite a simple job.

 

Picture of belt routing in FAQs, see Vehicle Specifications PDF

 

Rick,
Are you talking about the 3.0L V-6 engine sepentine belt? I looked at it the day I bought the belt and have put it off for 2 months now because it looked like a horrible job to tackle. I was told I needed to remove the air box to be able to get to it. Is this not true? Care to share some tricks Bro?

Thanks!

 

The only sticker on my splash guard is one about the fan and one abut the belt and both have a red x on them and the one on the belt shows what NOT to do (how silly).

Have you done the job and do you have to remove anything and do you do it from the top or bottom?

Tom

 

Thanks, I will go look. Relevant to your message about my signature- thanks for the siggestion, however my signature on this thread is ""
Tom (lost in Dallas)

2005 S-Type 3.0 "" which minus milage, which has nothing to do with my question, should be enough unless I am missing something.

Tom

 

Remove radiator splash shield (under hood). Remove the air box and cold air intake, 1-13mm bolt, disconnect the MAF connector and TB radiator clamp.

 

Thanks- thia will be very helpful.

Tom

 

Thanks Rick. Very helpful. Now if I only had smaller arms and long skinny fingers I could get my hands down in there where they need to go.........

 

Rick:

Did you have any problem with the small hand issue or is it a matter of careful patience

Tom

 

Actually I have the "long, skinny" hands. I did not have a problem removing nor placing the new belt. As I recall, I already had the air box and intake tube removed from the car (for another reason), with that it was a 10 minute procedure.

Sorry I can't help more. It really is a straight forward (easy) job.

 

I think my problem is big forearms and short stubby fingers. I wind up with cuts all up and down my arms and on my hands every time I work on a car.............

 

You're not a piano player then?

 

Not exactly...........

 

Sorry to bump an old thread, but this seems like the most fitting place to stash this, and it may prove helpful to someone else...plus, I'll still be able to find it next time I need it, even if I have another total computer crash whilst not having stuff backed up! (Still gotta find a way to get a copy of last year's tax filing....) I ended up here by googling "3.0L S-Type drive belt diagram" this afternoon while putting the finishing touches on my memory-extender.

Said crash also wiped out much of my maintenance history, so when I opened a Rock Auto box from back in October this weekend to do brake-pads, I found more treasures than I remembered ordering. The 03 transports my daughter to/from Pharmacy school - a grand total of maybe 5 mi/day round trip. However, that is a six-hour drive from me, the shop, and all of my tools, so I try to pre-emptively renew parts I suspect may fail before her next trip home. Not always a successful enterprise (Damned DCCV!) but usually the new outlasts the existing....My last recollection of a drive belt change is doing 6 or 8 in the span of one week when the damper on the V-6 was failing - she was in HS and now a 1st yr pharmacy student so figured it's time.

Anywho....in my largely unsuccessful quest to duplicate Rick's estimated times given in his many wonderful how-to's w/pics, I surmised that I spend a lot of time trapsing back and forth across the shop to obtain this or that tool. Therefore, I elected to start my own how-to with little notations as to the use of each tool so, for instance, If I'm renewing the air filter rather than changing the drive belt, I'll be able to select the subset of tools req'd. So, the attached pdf represents the way I do it and the tools I use, even so there may be better/easier/cheaper methods and/or tools. For example, I certainly wouldn't go buy a 3/8" torque wrench to relieve the belt tension - but it takes a 3/8" drive, and the Q-wrench is the longest-handled 3/8" drive I have. In former times, I'd try the 1/2" drive breaker-bar and 1/2" to 3/8" adapter - but then last summer, I attempted to use it to break torque on the XJ Crank-damper fixing bolt and broke Harbor-Freight's finest all to (heck).......

 

Howdy; I have a 2005 S-type 3.0 engine and after taking off the air box & splash guard (not much of a problem) I'm able to see the path of the belt fairly well. The only thing that looks like it could stump me is where the water pump is. Due to the metal obstruction there, It looks like one either has to remove the water pump or bare minimum, the two hoses there & possibly a bracket to get the belt out (and of course, to put the new one on). Do you know if that's true? Is there some clear path that I'm missing? Since the Jaguar dealership only charges $230 or so (INCLUDING the $87 belt) it seems to me maybe there's an easier way, As I would think certainly if you have to take the water pump off and back on again, the full charge would be at least $200 in labor alone. If you have access to any photos showing how to remove the belt without having to do anything with the water pump bric-a-brac, that would be awesome as well. In any event,thanks in advance! :-)

 

Welcome to the forum voicewizard,

Please post an intro in the new members section when you can.

There is no need to remove the water pump, that would be a bit of a catch 22 situation.

Check out the pdf in post #15 it has a step by step with pics.

 

Hi Norri,

First, as to the issue: yes I definitely already had a VERY close look at that PDF (And in fact had already downloaded it to my computer). Have a look at the PDF again: unfortunately, it does NOT show a step-by-step on belt removal – only the preparatory steps (Which are very helpful, don't get me wrong) but Unfortunately, it doesn't show the actual belt removal process.

Indeed, there is no picture (at least of that area by the water pump & pulley) with an explanation of how to get it off (without removing either the water pump or at least the two hoses there & I think the bracket) as I mentioned in my comment.

I was asking the user how they were able to remove the belt from that one place by the water pump where there seems to be a pretty "insurmountable" piece of aluminum blocking removal (or, in the case of simply cutting the old belt off, minimum, putting ON the new belt).

If someone Has a diagram and/or at least able to answer my question in detail, that would be terrific. (Worst comes to worst, the dealership will do it for under 250 bucks, which although sucks because I already have a belt that I got on Amazon.com & prefer DIY, at least is not super cost prohibitive :-)

As to my profile, I'll go to the new member section and see if there's anything I missed (I thought I had filled out everything I need to but may have missed something).

 

It may be easier for you to remove the belt tensioner to allow the belt to be removed and the new one fitted.

 

Thanks for your reply, NBCat. My issue is not regarding removing the tension (on the belt) but actually taking the belt OFF, which seems like it would be hindered by the metal structure - in the area of the water pump and that pulley.

All of the other pullies and paths that the belt takes (indeed, in its serpentine travel) have spacing to remove and replace – the only one place I see visually that would prevent the belt from easily being removed would be that metal in the area of the water pump (and those hoses there etc).

I'll probably just take it in and have the mechanic do it after all, unless I were to see a photo or video showing me a path/avenue through which I can get the belt off (and on) that I'm not seeing now (I've taken off the air a box, etc. so have a fairly clear view of the path).