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Slight miss at idle and highway speed

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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 06:55 PM
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Default Slight miss at idle and highway speed

2001 S type 4.0..this started as a slight miss after driving at highway speeds for twenty minutes. It still does that but now the engine stumbles and has a slight miss at idle about every five seconds cold or warm. It doesn’t last long enough to register on the tach but you can feel the car shake. I have checked the fuel trims with two different devices and they are basically the same readings as follows:
STFT BANK ONE. -6.3 to 1.56
LTFT BANK ONE. +2.34
STFT BANK TWO. -6.25 to 2.34
LTFT BANK TWO. basically a steady 0

fuel pressure runs about 55 psi if I remember correctly and there are no codes set. The car runs pretty good but this miss might well turn into a shut off at a bad time. Also I noticed that when I hit the throttle pretty hard with the car in park it doesn’t want to rev above 2800-3000 rpm regardless of pedal position. Is this normal or some safety thing I’m not aware of? I’m pretty good mechanically but Jaguars are a new world to me. This engine bay is still a mystery to me. I apologize if there are threads I missed or other facts I should have known before posting, but this forum was a great help to me with a battery drain problem ( ignition switch sticking) all thoughts appreciated
 
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Wfmurphy49
2001 S type 4.0..this started as a slight miss after driving at highway speeds for twenty minutes. It still does that but now the engine stumbles and has a slight miss at idle about every five seconds cold or warm. It doesn’t last long enough to register on the tach but you can feel the car shake. I have checked the fuel trims with two different devices and they are basically the same readings as follows:
STFT BANK ONE. -6.3 to 1.56
LTFT BANK ONE. +2.34
STFT BANK TWO. -6.25 to 2.34
LTFT BANK TWO. basically a steady 0

fuel pressure runs about 55 psi if I remember correctly and there are no codes set. The car runs pretty good but this miss might well turn into a shut off at a bad time. Also I noticed that when I hit the throttle pretty hard with the car in park it doesn’t want to rev above 2800-3000 rpm regardless of pedal position. Is this normal or some safety thing I’m not aware of? I’m pretty good mechanically but Jaguars are a new world to me. This engine bay is still a mystery to me. I apologize if there are threads I missed or other facts I should have known before posting, but this forum was a great help to me with a battery drain problem ( ignition switch sticking) all thoughts appreciated
the rev limiter is set low when out of gear for idiot proofing reasons .
your trims are not too bad . but it is removing fuel because the o2's are seeing un burnt fuel in the exhaust .

you need to look in the spark plug wells for oil and at spark plug tips for signs first . if they are old replace them ,
then if still no joy id be blaming a dyeing ignition coil .
 
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 02:42 PM
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Also: have you changed the timing chain tensioners etc???

Engine destruction is a real risk if not.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 03:01 PM
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I haven’t changed them yet, but the car isn’t being driven. Currently removing plugs and coils to check or replace as necessary. Chain tensioners are next on the list before going back on the road. Looking around for parts and videos on how to. Thanks for the heads up, I had no idea this was such a danger before. Have done some reading on it and it’s definitely on the have to do list.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 04:28 PM
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I have spent the last two hours searching around for timing chain tensioner parts and I have managed to confuse myself about exactly what I need and where I should buy them from. Would some of you experts please advise me what I should buy and who you would buy them from. I would be very appreciative.
2001 S type 4.0 85K miles
 
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Old Jul 28, 2018 | 06:11 PM
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You can check with some of the forum sponsors by clicking on the Marketplace tab at the top of the page.

There are also some kits for sale on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Chai...sid=m570.l1313

More importantly, follow the procedure in the Workshop Manual, which you can download here:

https://www.dropbox.com/home/Jaguar?...S-Type_FSM.pdf

You must also use the correct tools to properly time the AJ28 fitted to the S-Type:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-97-0...itleDesc=0%7C0
 
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Old Jul 28, 2018 | 07:51 PM
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[QUOTE=NBCat;1937666]You can check with some of the forum sponsors by clicking on the Marketplace tab at the top of the page.

There are also some kits for sale on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Chai...sid=m570.l1313

More importantly, follow the procedure in the Workshop Manual, which you can download here:

https://www.dropbox.com/home/Jaguar?...S-Type_FSM.pdf

You must also use the correct tools to properly time the AJ28 fitted to the S-Type:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-97-0...itleDesc=0%7C0[/QUO

Thanks very much for the leads. I have the tools in my cart on eBay.i have two other questions please,
my car has 85k miles on the engine. Do I need to replace all those components or just the tensioners. Sorry if the answer to this should be obvious but I’m an old big block Chevy guy and these engines are still pretty exotic to me
also the link to the workshop manual takes me to the Dropbox home page. I have a Dropbox account but it won’t take me to the file. Do I need an invite or permission of some kind?

thanks again for your assistance, it’s greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2018 | 12:28 PM
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Here is another link to the Workshop Manual file:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jp6343385h...e_FSM.pdf?dl=0

So we're both in the same boat as I've never worked on any GM engines myself!

It's best to replace all the components so you don't need to open up the engine again. Be sure you use the correct crankshaft holding tool that fits in the opening for the crankshaft position sensor, which is a different shape on the AJ28. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt by using a piece of serpentine belt wrapped around the pulley with a chain spanner to hold it from turning. You need a 24mm socket and a long breaker bar to loosen the bolt. Under no circumstances is the crankshaft holding tool to be used to hold the crankshaft whilst removing the pulley bolt. Under no circumstances is the engine to be rotated in an anti-clock direction when viewed from the front as damage to the main bearings will result.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2018 | 12:40 PM
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Some additional reading:

http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...Code%20168.pdf

Pay particular attention to page 74 (numbered as 26 within the course) to set the cam timing correctly.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2018 | 01:34 PM
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Thanks to everyone for all this valuable information. Special thanks to NBCat for the links to the manual, tools needed, parts and engine course. I have been reading about the variable cam timing and how the cams function in this engine and it really is pretty exotic for an old big block Chevy guy who grew up in the 60s and early 70s muscle car era. This engine is really a piece of work and I mean that as a compliment. I have to check with my family banker, read wife, to see about the funding to get all the necessary parts, but I’m not going to drive the car until I get this resolved. I’m so glad my first indication of a problem wasn’t a cloud of smoke and metal grinding followed by a quick stop. It might be awhile before I’m done but I will let everyone know how this works out. Any other suggestions are of course welcome, but if not thanks again.

Bill M in VA
 
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Old Oct 15, 2018 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Wfmurphy49
2001 S type 4.0..this started as a slight miss after driving at highway speeds for twenty minutes. It still does that but now the engine stumbles and has a slight miss at idle about every five seconds cold or warm. It doesn’t last long enough to register on the tach but you can feel the car shake. I have checked the fuel trims with two different devices and they are basically the same readings as follows:
STFT BANK ONE. -6.3 to 1.56
LTFT BANK ONE. +2.34
STFT BANK TWO. -6.25 to 2.34
LTFT BANK TWO. basically a steady 0

fuel pressure runs about 55 psi if I remember correctly and there are no codes set. The car runs pretty good but this miss might well turn into a shut off at a bad time. Also I noticed that when I hit the throttle pretty hard with the car in park it doesn’t want to rev above 2800-3000 rpm regardless of pedal position. Is this normal or some safety thing I’m not aware of? I’m pretty good mechanically but Jaguars are a new world to me. This engine bay is still a mystery to me. I apologize if there are threads I missed or other facts I should have known before posting, but this forum was a great help to me with a battery drain problem ( ignition switch sticking) all thoughts appreciated
Hi. I have the 2001 S type 4.0 with 52K miles. I had the exact same miss and stumble. The valve covers I had already change as I previously had oil burning on the passenger side exhaust. I changed all the plugs to NGK and all new COP's. Runs perfectly. Previously I was chasing them around one by one. This is my second COP replacement. Also you can get new Dead on Arrival out of the box. Please advise which kits you bought for the timing chain replacement. I plan on all the chains all the tensioners.

For any other S type owners out there does it matter if the timing chain kit is OEM, OEM qualified or Original Jaguar. Any specific brands? I have used Eurospares with success in the past and FelPro gasket sets for the valve covers. No leaks. Your advice is much appreciated.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2018 | 05:46 AM
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Any update on this? When I first read this I was thinking weak spark.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2018 | 09:22 AM
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Thanks for your post. I ended up doing the same thing you did, changed to NGK plugs and all new COP. I had the same result, it now runs perfectly. I’m thinking one of the coils was dying because the plugs looked pretty good. Valve cover gaskets are fine for now, no signs of oil or even smudge anywhere. I haven’t bought the chain and tensioner kit yet. I’m still looking for some help with how much to replace, proper parts, etc just like you are. I may derfer this until winter time when I’m not getting out much and need a project. I’m driving the car very little until I get that done, just 5-10 miles every week or so to keep the battery up and circulate all the fluids. It stays in the garage for now.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2018 | 09:26 AM
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Thanks for the post..... I changed all the plugs to NGK and replaced all the coils and it now runs perfectly. Just not driving it much due to the need to change out the cam chains and tensioners. That’s my winter project.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2018 | 07:52 PM
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Hi there. Attempting the full chain replacement Friday. 60% torn down. Almost to the timing cover. John
 
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Old Nov 23, 2018 | 12:53 PM
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Thanks for your reply. Good luck with the project. Please let me know how it goes and if you have any bumps in the road getting it done. I haven’t started yet, family issues and competing priorities as usual. Hope all goes well for you.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2018 | 04:53 PM
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Yes JohnB, how did day 1 go?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Wfmurphy49
2001 S type 4.0..this started as a slight miss after driving at highway speeds for twenty minutes. It still does that but now the engine stumbles and has a slight miss at idle about every five seconds cold or warm. It doesn’t last long enough to register on the tach but you can feel the car shake. I have checked the fuel trims with two different devices and they are basically the same readings as follows:
STFT BANK ONE. -6.3 to 1.56
LTFT BANK ONE. +2.34
STFT BANK TWO. -6.25 to 2.34
LTFT BANK TWO. basically a steady 0

fuel pressure runs about 55 psi if I remember correctly and there are no codes set. The car runs pretty good but this miss might well turn into a shut off at a bad time. Also I noticed that when I hit the throttle pretty hard with the car in park it doesn’t want to rev above 2800-3000 rpm regardless of pedal position. Is this normal or some safety thing I’m not aware of? I’m pretty good mechanically but Jaguars are a new world to me. This engine bay is still a mystery to me. I apologize if there are threads I missed or other facts I should have known before posting, but this forum was a great help to me with a battery drain problem ( ignition switch sticking) all thoughts appreciated
W Murphy. I see that you have a 2001. Check for oil leaking into the spark plug holes. If so, replace the valve cover gaskets. I see that you were researching about 6 months ago the timing chain replacement. I just did mine. Look it up. I also had a slight miss. After changing several Cop's (coil on plugs) I kept chasing it. There was not enough to throw a code. But it had a stumble at idle. I replace all 8 and all plugs. Runs perfectly. Now I have the chains done. See my tips and tricks in my write up as well as some photos. John
 
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